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Discussion Starter #1
On a 2012 650 adv. I've got the clutch cable installed at both ends and can not get it near operating tension with the two adjusters near the lever. Saw Greywolfs photos and my actuator looks nothing like that. HELP please.
 

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That arm is angled back more on my 2016, from the factory, in the "at rest" position. Try moving it rearward one spline.
 

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Use the "Drag and Drop File Upload" below. Find the image with File Explorer and "Drag Files Here To Attach".
Recent changes have seen these uploads now become a reasonable size.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There is so much slack I doubt ten splines would snug it up. I'm not great but I thought a cable would be easy enough. I checked the part number because its almost like a wrong part. I have two inch risers and it is frustrating me to no end. I would think a new cable would be tighter than a worn one. ???
 

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Use the "Drag and Drop File Upload" below. Find the image with File Explorer and "Drag Files Here To Attach".
Recent changes have seen these uploads now become a reasonable size.
I'm not able to do anything with the drag and drop, but I did post the pic to the vstrom group on Facebook, so it can be seen there. This is a new tablet, and I'm still trying to figure out stuff on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Brockie? I have come back and forth to this forum a couple times since I joined. Am I posting this in the right place or should I be in the maintenance area? Trying to do the right thing. Also whats with blocked images on this post?
 

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Brockie? I have come back and forth to this forum a couple times since I joined. Am I posting this in the right place or should I be in the maintenance area? Trying to do the right thing. Also whats with blocked images on this post?
All good. As 1000's have a hydraulic clutch your thread is best here.
You need to have 10 posts before you can upload images. This is part of the effort to keep spammers and the like off of our pages. See here. https://www.stromtrooper.com/rules-forum-support-help-information-[not-motorcycle-related-questions]/416243-why-cant-new-members-post-pics.html

It is quite puzzling that there is so much slack in your cable.
Have you put the old and new one side by side?
There should be a length adjuster near the top and another at the lever.
Can you be sure that your old cable was OEM?
Why did you need to replace it? (Is there another issue?)

Is your cable Part #58200-27G00? This is the part for 2004/11 DL650's which is, I believe different from the 2012-16 clutch cable.

 

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BigB has a good question! I suspect the wrong cable.

Beyond that, there is no way you should need to move the lever on the splines.

On the 2012 and up DL 650 there is an internal adjustment that should be set first, then the small adjusters on the cable to fine tune it. Don't have the particulars in front of me, but greywolf had a post about how to do this correctly.

I still don't think it is the right cable!
 
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OP why did you have to replace a clutch cable on a 2012? Do you have really high mileage? My 2012 has 65K miles on the original cable and has only ever required a minor adjustment at the handlebar. Just wondering.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
First, I'm no expert mechanic. My 2012 650 has just under 90,000 miles on it and I bought it new. I will say well maintained. My mechanic suggested a new cable but I'm starting to doubt now. I checked Babbitt's for the part number and it matches 58200-11J00. I purchased it from the local dealer. I have not compared them side to side because I have not completely removed the old one. 90,000 miles seems to be where a number of parts began to fail (for me). Ball joint on the shifter assembly broke off, ignition switch/headlight failure and a few other things so I didn't think a whole lot about about a preventative cable replacement. I'm still baffled that the perch adjuster is extended all the way as well as the second adjuster on the cable and I get zero action on the cable itself. I can still pull it taught with my finger. Grrrrr!
 

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Are you positive BOTH ends of the new cable are seated in the proper brackets? The cable can be correct, or even too long, but if not seated there is no way to make it work!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm 99.9% sure. I'm going back out to look with new eyes this morning. My next step will be reconnecting the old cable and riding to the mechanics. Sorry for being such a PITA. I had no idea it could turn into this.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Bike is in the shop being dignosed. It is more than the cable now. Now I'm worried about what might be wrong and the potential cost. I'm just a poor bastard and this is my only vehicle. Even though putting the money out would be a challenge, I have been drooling a bit over a new 2017 they have sitting in their shop for $6,800 and change. Of course tax and prep scam on top of that number so add 1K as is their preference. They could have mine and I'd ride the 2017 away. Just not sure how smart a move that might be. Thoughts ?
 
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