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Discussion Starter #1
I know there are a million tire threads, but it seems many are debating the finer points of one brand versus another. I'm still at the point of wondering when one *category* of tire is good enough for a given situation, or if one should definitely be swapping in something different.

For example, I am running the stock trai lwings on my 2012 DL650A, which I understand are an 80/20 tire. Say I wanted to do a trip with a significant gravel component, e.g. the Trans-Labrador. Would I be I kicking myself for saving some money and not putting on 50/50 tires? (Assume beginner-to-average riding skill).

Just trying to capture the key decisions that just about everyone would agree are smart or dumb, without getting into the finer points of individual brands and tires.

So maybe if someone could fill in a table like this:

[G]ood [A]void [N]ever
Percent tire rated for street
100 80 50 20 0
Highway G G A etc...
Street G G G
Gravel N G G
Flat Dirt N N G
Flat Mud N N A
Off Road N N A
Sand N N N

Tires that many consider exceptions to the above:
Heidenau K60 considered Good for Highway
(just an example)

A couple of preferred tire examples for each bike/category:
2012+ Dl650A
100/0
...
80/20
...
etc.

Anyone game?
 

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Metz tourance (Regular)

G]ood [A]void [N]ever

Percent tire rated for street 90%

Highway G
Street G
Gravel G/A
Flat Dirt G
Flat Mud N
Off Road N
Sand N

Heidenau K76

Percent tire rated for street 90%

Highway G
Street G
Gravel G/A
Flat Dirt G
Flat Mud N
Off Road N
Sand N
 

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I will never ever understand anybody trying to save money on tyres (tires) going cheap on tyres can cost a lot more in the long run

One crash and the money saved is gone or it could even cost you your life, what is that worth ?
 

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Here is my .02- although I'm not using your system and my knowledge of dirt/street tires comes from many miles on a different bike. Hope this helps in some way.

I don't use my 2014 DL650 on dirt much, I will usually ride my DR650 for that. But this is what the DR has taught me about 50/50 tires. (Remembering that the DR weighs 100 pounds less, uses tubes and has a prominent safety hump inside the wheel which can make tire changing more difficult.)

REAR: Pretty much any tire is fine on the back until you get to slippery mud. Then a 50/50 tire will be noticeably better. Heidenau is a very tough and effective tire. (Also very tough to mount and dismount, something to think about if you're running tubes and need to take the tire off to fix a puncture.) MEFO is another excellent 50/50 rear tire. They are both expensive but you can get good mileage out them which can be important on a trip.

FRONT: Much more important for both street and dirt.

On the dirt a knobby type (like the TKC80) will have much better traction- think of climbing up at an angle out of a rut- and will feel much more secure in thick gravel where the knobs can bite down into something solid. On the pavement, though, knobbies can be pretty insecure- especially when cornering hard. Also they tend to wander and feel insecure on some types of ribbed concrete roads.

A street front tire will handle paved roads smoothly and securely, and corner very well, but in the dirt they can wash out easily, and generally inspire a white knuckle grip crossing the ridges of gravel between wheel tracks. Pretty useless in mud and sandy sections.

A 50/50 tire, like the Heidenau front, actually works very well on pavement and pretty well on gravel and rocky roads. It's not a knobbie though, and if you get into more difficult terrain you may push the limits of this tire.

So, if I were in your position I would put a Heidenau K60 scout on the front and just about anything else on the back.

...............shu
 

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Michelin Pilot Road 4 Trail

[G]ood [A]void [N]ever
Percent tire rated for street
95%+
Highway G (freaking brilliant!)
Street G (Yummy!)
Gravel A
Flat Dirt A (Ok, but that's all, just ok, better be smooth dirt)
Flat Mud N ( Oh HELL no!!)
Off Road N (See mud)
Sand N (See mud)
 

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I will never ever understand anybody trying to save money on tyres (tires) going cheap on tyres can cost a lot more in the long run

One crash and the money saved is gone or it could even cost you your life, what is that worth ?
Ok, show me where price paid has any measurable determination in tire safety. Studies? Data? Personal experience? Feelings?
 

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The Shinko 705 is probably the best all round tire for street or dirt. Avoid sand and mud. Don't expect too many miles from them though.
 

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Ok, show me where price paid has any measurable determination in tire safety. Studies? Data? Personal experience? Feelings?
I did not say price, I said saving money.

Buying a tyre that is less suited to your riding style because it is cheaper or will last longer is false economy in my book.

A tyre that lasts 50% longer but takes 10% more distance to stop could be fatal.

When I shop for tyres I don't look at the price I only shop for grip.
 

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I did not say price, I said saving money.

Buying a tyre that is less suited to your riding style because it is cheaper or will last longer is false economy in my book.

A tyre that lasts 50% longer but takes 10% more distance to stop could be fatal.

When I shop for tyres I don't look at the price I only shop for grip.
:iamwithstupid:
 

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Buy the type of tires that will make you most safe on the most difficult surface you'll be on. Who's ridden the Trans-Labrador and can advise this "beginner-to-average riding skill," rider?

Mitas E07 is another good choice along with the Heidi K60, also the Conti TKC70.

Knobbier tires include the Conti TKC80, Kenda Big Block, Shinko 804/805, Metzeler Karoo3, Michelin Anakee Wild.

Keep in mind that there is no standard for what is 80/20 or 90/10 or 50/50 or whatever. The numbers are whatever the marketing V.P. wants to publish.
 
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I did not say price, I said saving money.

Buying a tyre that is less suited to your riding style because it is cheaper or will last longer is false economy in my book.

A tyre that lasts 50% longer but takes 10% more distance to stop could be fatal.

When I shop for tyres I don't look at the price I only shop for grip.
You didn't say anything about grip or riding style, you only made mention of price and safety.

I won't debate buying the best tire for your riding style, but even there price does not dictate performance or suitability.
 

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My post was to get the OP and others that read this to realise that paying for tyres was insignificant in the whole scheme of things.

Buy the tyre you think best suits the type of ridding you are doing.

If you are planning a trip re-evaluate your tyre choice, is that the best tyre for my trip ? if the answer is no change it out.

When you get home again re-evaluate your tyres, are they the best tyre for the type of ridding I do ? if the answer is no change them out again.

By saving a few bucks on tyres you could be up for an insurance claim on your bike, time off work, days or weeks in hospital or even funeral costs.

Makes suitable tyres look cheap hey.
 

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This is awesome, bout to subscribe to this as I may need to purchase a new rear for the soon to be mine Wee I will be getting.

Thanks!
 

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My post was to get the OP and others that read this to realise that paying for tyres was insignificant in the whole scheme of things.

Buy the tyre you think best suits the type of ridding you are doing.

If you are planning a trip re-evaluate your tyre choice, is that the best tyre for my trip ? if the answer is no change it out.

When you get home again re-evaluate your tyres, are they the best tyre for the type of ridding I do ? if the answer is no change them out again.

By saving a few bucks on tyres you could be up for an insurance claim on your bike, time off work, days or weeks in hospital or even funeral costs.

Makes suitable tyres look cheap hey.

I'm not pushing the envelope when riding my Strom. I don't need sticky road tires or gnarley off-road tires.

If you ride "sanely" tire choice is more about economics IMO. Most any tire will do anything that you ask of it (within reason). More "the rider than the bike" sort of thing.
 

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I'm not pushing the envelope when riding my Strom. I don't need sticky road tires or gnarley off-road tires.

If you ride "sanely" tire choice is more about economics IMO. Most any tire will do anything that you ask of it (within reason). More "the rider than the bike" sort of thing.
If you ride at any speed your life is in danger from other motorists.

Stopping distance is important to everybody, don't skimp.
 
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If you ride at any speed your life is in danger from other motorists.

Stopping distance is important to everybody, don't skimp.
You are correct, and I don't skimp on brakes. :wink2:
 

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Keninct, if there is significant gravel I would go with at least a 50/50 tire.
I come from riding off road and FSRs and the death wings on the VStrom have no place on gravel.
After 1000 km with the stock tires I switched to Heidenau K60 Scouts.
For the riding I would like to do I need to switch to a true knobby.
The K60s do well on both gravel (air down) and pavement.
 
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Keninct, if there is significant gravel I would go with at least a 50/50 tire.

I come from riding off road and FSRs and the death wings on the VStrom have no place on gravel.

After 1000 km with the stock tires I switched to Heidenau K60 Scouts.

For the riding I would like to do I need to switch to a true knobby.

The K60s do well on both gravel (air down) and pavement.


Those aren't the "death wings" you're referring to. The "death wings" come on Japanese dual sport bikes and are a 50/50 tire whereas the trail wings that come on the DL650 are a 90/10 or maybe even an 80/20 (forgot) street tire.
 

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If you ride at any speed your life is in danger from other motorists.

Stopping distance is important to everybody, don't skimp.
your personal reaction time affects your stopping distance more than tire grip
 

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your personal reaction time affects your stopping distance more than tire grip
So if you have poor reaction times you need even better tyres :fineprint:
 
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