StromTrooper banner

21 - 39 of 39 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Ok you might get by with 650. it won't be ideal but it will work. Not redoing the rebound stack might be problematic. The only way you'll know is if you replace it and try. Maybe with max rebound it will get close enough.

Getting the shock on and off is relatively easy. Getting the spring on and off a little more difficult.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
I’d recommend just doing it all the first time, it’s only around $295 for a new spring, revalve, change fluid, and seals replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
644 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I'm seeing $400 on the Sasquatch site. I called and left a message a couple days ago, but no return call yet. I read someplace they went out of business, but I'm not sure that's right. Still, I'd like to touch base before mailing off a shock....

Is there someplace else I should be looking? I did see something cheaper, but they are progressive springs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,246 Posts
I'm seeing $400 on the Sasquatch site. I called and left a message a couple days ago, but no return call yet. I read someplace they went out of business, but I'm not sure that's right. Still, I'd like to touch base before mailing off a shock....

Is there someplace else I should be looking? I did see something cheaper, but they are progressive springs.
DMR. DMr Performance Suspension

He does very good work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
552 Posts
I rode my bike with a 650 lb spring and the stock shock for half a season. It wasn't horrid if I turned the rebound dampening adjuster all the way in, but there was definitely over-rebound action. Overall, the stiffer spring with the stock shock was an improvement, but it was far short of what it could be.

Also, the small bump compression dampening was a bit too harsh, and there is a reason for that. The reason being, that the rebound adjuster is a needle valve which restricts (or opens) the flow of shock fluid bypassing the shock's piston. This adjuster has an effect on both rebound and compression dampening. Basically, it's a clicker which affects both actions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
i think you mean rebound adjuster in your first para

you are totally correct on the second thought important to adjust the actual valving than relying on needle valve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
552 Posts
i think you mean rebound adjuster in your first para

you are totally correct on the second thought important to adjust the actual valving than relying on needle valve
Oops, yes- rebound. There is no compression adjuster on the stock shock. I'll edit the post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
644 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I can do a lot of stuff myself, but sending out the shock makes the most sense. MDr is in Fort Wayne, IN, so not only a better price, but being that close will probably save at least a day or 2 on shipping each direction.
 

·
2015 DL650
Joined
·
200 Posts
I just had my forks and rear rear shock fully rebuilt by Sasquatch Suspension. It is the best money I have spent on my DL1000 - The bike feels soooo much better on and off-road. I can't explain the difference, besides I am extremely grateful and happy. And I have enough pre-load now to load up the bike for multi-day rides. A professional rebuild is well worth the money. Cogent also has great reviews.

They'll set up the suspension for your weight and riding style. Do IT!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
644 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
So is DMR and Sonic the same guy/place?

I placed an order for Sonic Springs about a week ago. A day or 2 later I wanted to see if there was any info about when they were coming, but the website said I have no order history. I checked my PayPal and there was $120 deducted from my balance. I clicked the link to contact them and explained that I placed an order and gave info about the payment. I also gave them my contact info, but I haven't heard anything at all. WTF??

Maybe they were closed for Good Friday and all, but I would think somebody would've tried yesterday or today. I just looked again and there is no phone number listed, but I see it's also in Fort Wayne and the dude's name is also Jamie. What are the chances?
(But he can't be this Jamie or Sonic would be pushing Progressive springs)

284580


The springs are still in my shopping cart, but it wants me to pay again. :cautious:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
So is DMR and Sonic the same guy/place?

I placed an order for Sonic Springs about a week ago. A day or 2 later I wanted to see if there was any info about when they were coming, but the website said I have no order history. I checked my PayPal and there was $120 deducted from my balance. I clicked the link to contact them and explained that I placed an order and gave info about the payment. I also gave them my contact info, but I haven't heard anything at all. WTF??

Maybe they were closed for Good Friday and all, but I would think somebody would've tried yesterday or today. I just looked again and there is no phone number listed, but I see it's also in Fort Wayne and the dude's name is also Jamie. What are the chances?
(But he can't be this Jamie or Sonic would be pushing Progressive springs)

View attachment 284580

The springs are still in my shopping cart, but it wants me to pay again. :cautious:
I believe that Rich on here used to own Sonic Springs and sold it to DMR. Could always email or call DMR for clarification.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
For me, at 230lbs I went with a 700 rear spring and the sag is bulleye with zero preload. So at 290 I wouldn't get lower than 700. And I crank it by 8-9 step on the preload with only the passenger and more with luggage. I went to Stadium suspensions for the job. It cost me around 475$ CAD for the spring and the revalving. They say now it's rebuildable and they've added a valve for the nitrogen charging on the shock. Now it's trial time to set-up the rebound like I want it. There's a noticeable difference. For the front I went with 0,95 spring and 10w oil to compensate for the damping. It's harsh But I'm almost max out on the damping. Damping is the issue now. I haven't decided yet if I'll go with the revalving or the cartridge change. Price difference but the revalving might be time consumming....seems that the racetech shim calculator insn't up for our machine and a lot of people are complaining that the had to redo the shim stack 2-3 times. Meaning a lot of time in the garage to dimantle and re-install the fork.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
552 Posts
For the front I went with 0,95 spring and 10w oil to compensate for the damping. It's harsh But I'm almost max out on the damping. Damping is the issue now. I haven't decided yet if I'll go with the revalving or the cartridge change. Price difference but the revalving might be time consumming....seems that the racetech shim calculator insn't up for our machine and a lot of people are complaining that the had to redo the shim stack 2-3 times. Meaning a lot of time in the garage to dimantle and re-install the fork.
Your forks will absolutely be way too stiff with the stock valving, plus 10 wt fluid, and the .95 springs. Either the .95 springs or the 10 wt will be bad enough by themselves.

I'd suggest to pull the cartridge and dig into the OEM valve shim stacks. The compression is too stiff and the rebound is too soft. Here are my most recent changes. I won't rave about the results because I believe the stock system has limitations, but it's very good compared to stock.

Keep in mind, these specs are with the stock fork springs. With the .95 springs, I would suggest to add a 17x.15 and a 15x.15 into the rebound stack. I did have the .95 springs but they seemed too stiff for me at 185 lbs.

The stock clickers are only effective for the first turn out, and after that, they are essentially wide open. The K-Tech clickers are much better, but truth be, I have my K-Techs only 5-6 clicks from full open.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Your forks will absolutely be way too stiff with the stock valving, plus 10 wt fluid, and the .95 springs. Either the .95 springs or the 10 wt will be bad enough by themselves.

I'd suggest to pull the cartridge and dig into the OEM valve shim stacks. The compression is too stiff and the rebound is too soft. Here are my most recent changes. I won't rave about the results because I believe the stock system has limitations, but it's very good compared to stock.

Keep in mind, these specs are with the stock fork springs. With the .95 springs, I would suggest to add a 17x.15 and a 15x.15 into the rebound stack. I did have the .95 springs but they seemed too stiff for me at 185 lbs.

The stock clickers are only effective for the first turn out, and after that, they are essentially wide open. The K-Tech clickers are much better, but truth be, I have my K-Techs only 5-6 clicks from full open.
What's the part number do you have for the K-Techs ? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
552 Posts
What's the part number do you have for the K-Techs ? Thanks
I bought the K-Tech parts per MotoCanada's post a few years ago. #KTK20K-FCV-KYB3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Considering the recommended spring rate for my weight is 1.05 (I weigh 285), then I would think, .95 would be way to stiff for you at 185. I put in 1.05 in my forks with 10w and 16mm of preload and it feels great.
 
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
Top