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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After a couple early season rides, it's pretty clear I need to stiffen up my suspension. There's as much info about fork springs, as there are suppliers. The rear is sort of a mystery, though. After some digging, it sounds like the OEM spring rate is about 540 lbs/in. I see Eibach has a variety of springs that will fit, but I may have to fire up my lathe for some adapters.

I'd be interested in some feedback from people and what they have used. I'm about 290 (yea, I know :oops:) and the rear sag is 55mm cranked all the way in. (about 70-75mm all the way out) I'd be grateful for any input about what spring I should order.

I did pick up a used shock from a bike same as mine, so it will minimize my downtime as I figure out how to swap springs, make spacers, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I'm leaning towards 1.00kg/mm springs up front and a 650lbs/in rear. I just don't want to get it done and wish I had gone 700 instead.
 

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I suggest going the full mile and replacing shock and spring unit. Replaced mine over this winter after 25K miles and man what a difference. Went with Hyperpro at EPM - good folks and will be sized correctly from the start.
 

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I have done two of these. You need either 675 if you ride mostly solo, 700 if you ride two up. 650 a little too soft for 290. I way 180 and 625 is perfect.

I don't think putting a spring that stiff on the stock shock is going to work unless you get sasquatch or someone else redo the rebound valving. One thing to make sure of if you do do it yourself is to make spacers so that you hit the magical 48 mm rear sag number without having to crank on the hydraulic preload adjuster at all. That way, when you do add load, you have the full range of hydraulic preload to work with. It take fiddling. Basically put it together once, measuring sag and determining how many mm of preload you had to have via hydraulic to get to 48-mm and then taking the shock out one more time and adding a spacer to accomplish that. I know for instance that my 625 mm spring needs 9-mm of installed preload to get my rear sag numbers to 48-mm with me on board.
 

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Skip the wondering if you're doing it right and treat yourself to a suspension overhaul that you don't have to think about. Call Cogent Dynamics, let them know the results you're looking for and they'll walk you through the rest.
 

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Very interested... This bike is popular and has been out for 7 yrs.....should be some proven suspension approaches out there for what the typical Vstrom rider is looking for...rough road riding.

Im just over 200lbs suited up....I can get proper sag from my rear spring and altho the rear shock needs some rebound help it isnt too bad otherwise....can just get sag with front BUT the springs are progressive and crash thru their stroke too easily...and the damping is poor.....harsh compression and basically no rebound.

Im not prepared or capble of re/re my forks several times to have them fooked with trying to chase a setup....need something that will work well 1st time.

I have a friend who is a Racetech dealer/tech.....trust him to do the work but he is dirtbike/sled focused and admits that IF the shimstack RT provides with their valves isnt right it would involve multiple re/re to chase it down and he doesnt have a baseline or experience with this style of bike.

RT ? Cogent ? Particularly for us Canadians as covid makes shipping and cross border transactions sketchier than usual.

Motocanada....if I recall did you end up with something decent revalving the oem fork components or end up using RT valves? My RT tech can certainly duplicate it for me if you care to share the specs.....whether using oem valving or RT.

Also....will simply going to some straight rate springs of proper spec....90~.95 work a bit better or overwhelm the oem sillyass valving??
 

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Look up DMR Suspension, they just did my shock and also sell Sonic fork springs. They are reasonably priced and I’m happy with the improvements.
 

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Look up DMR Suspension, they just did my shock and also sell Sonic fork springs. They are reasonably priced and I’m happy with the improvements.
Did you just do springs in the forks or valving as well?
With springs were they drop in or require different spacers?
 

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Did you just do springs in the forks or valving as well?
With springs were they drop in or require different spacers?
I’m not a hardcore rider and just did springs in the rate he recommended for my weight. I changed to a 10w fork oil and used the same spacer. Can always add a washers or cut a longer spacer if you need more preload.

He completely went through the rear shock.
 

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Shock... I think for Big Hammer's weight, a 650 Eibach spring will be fine. I'm at 185 (pre covid lockdown, LOL) and often ride two up with a 160 lb passenger with a 650 lb spring. At full preload, ride height is pretty close. At a few mm preload, it works ok for me. I ride two up more than solo, so this works probably a satisfactory compromise. Do not compare the spring rate on the 1000 with the 650's requirements. The 650 has a shorter stroke shock (the older ones, which I owned an 05), and the linkage leverage ratio is different.

I can hunt down the required spacers to install an Eibach spring and post if you can't find them with a search under my username. One spacer is RT, the other is a custom fabrication. But do a search also for some other RT possibility- a member on this board from Canada was ordering some RT spacers which were supposed to be the correct spacers.

The stock shock is under dampened for a stiffer spring but will suffice if you aren't too picky. The stock shock can be revalved. If people are interested, I can post a short how-to. Keep in mind, this shock is different procedure a little different because of the floating single body design. I went stiffer on the stacks and I can share my data. I did a single attempt and the results are close enough, and your opinion could be different. Keep in mind, that this shock will still be a rather basic design.

Forks... I revalved the stock parts and ended up back with the stock springs with substantially stiffer rebound and much lighter compression. I'm thinking that these forks with stock revalved components will work better with 7wt fluid rather than 5wt. (I'm using Maxima Fork Fluid if you want to compare cst values).

Also, note that the fork seals & wipers can get sticky, and it helps to apply a light coat of grease to the sliding tubes. Slide down the fork wiper, apply a light coat of a high quality grease such as Mobil 1 synthetic, pump the forks a few-five times, wipe off any excess, and then slide the wiper back into position. You'll be impressed how much easier the fork will move.

Hope all this helps!
 

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bazooka you're at full preload with 345 of rider and passenger. he needs to be at zero preload at 290. So 650 lb/in too soft. 675 if he rides alone, 700 if he carries a passenger. Hope you are well joe.
 

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MotoCanada,

I don't think Eibach makes a 675 lb spring. I believe the Eibach choices are either 650 or 700 lb/inch. But, like many times before in my lilfe, I could be wrong. Or- I should ask this: Where could a person buy a 675 lb spring?

And one note I will add is that at full preload, my bike still has about 20-25mm of unladen sag. Of course, this unladen sag depends on the thickness of the adapter spacers and the particular spring's free length.

And yes, doing well here, thanks.
 

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Not sure of spring avails from Eibach either. I do know that increments are generally 25 pound per inch

Yup I know you can do that with a weaker spring — and while I know you will understand this i hope I don't lose the OP on this — but that would mean your installed preload is too high. He could for instance get 48-mm rider sag with zero hydraulic preload with a 650 pound spring but it would probably mean having an installed preload — spring free length minus its length installed on the shock — of say 15 mm.

The problem with that is that 8 to 10 mils installed preload is ideal and if you use installed preload to compensate for a too weak a spring, you won't get enough adjustability from the hydraulic adjuster to keep sag at 48-mm when you add a rider and gear.

The better bet is get just the right spring to have 8 or 9 mils installed preload when you have 48-mm sag when the hydraulic preload is at zero. Then everything is spot on.

Apologies if I lost anyone.

Glad you are doing well Joe. Hope you been riding lots. Weather unseasonably warm here
 

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Hyperco, hmmm... Looking at their catalog, I see that the longest spring in 675 lb x 2.25 ID, is only 6" long. The 8" is what fits nicely in the DL1000 shock, but just like the Eibach, Hyperco is 50 lb increments in 8" length. Bummer... I don't see the wire diameter specs, but we would want to confirm that the 6" spring does not become coil bound. If the 6" does not become coil bound, then a longer spacer would make it all fit, but the spring will be under greater stress and will have a shorter expected life.

MotoC- I follow all that.
 

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For what it's worth, If the springs from eibach are only available in 650 or 700 and you weigh 290 and don't plan on losing any and you ride with a passenger and/or gear, I'd go 700 rather than 650.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm hoping to lose some of these covid pounds. :censored:
(or I'll have to look for a stiffer spring for in my scale as well :p)

So will the damping be completely inadequate if I just put on a 650lb spring and nothing inside the shock? Even if it's not quite enough spring, it will be quite an improvement over what I have now.
 

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yes it will be quite awful on the rebound. It will pogo quite a bit after hitting a large bump. Sorry there's no easy answer.

How often do you ride two up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Never.

I also enjoy backpacking, so my camping gear is very lightweight. Loaded for weeks on the road, I'd be surprised if I add more than 40lbs.
 
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