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Nearing 7k miles and I've noticed a slight roughness when accellerating. Steady state and coast down are smooth as ever but when the throttle is open it's not as smooth.

The TB's have never been touched so maybe it's time.
 

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Give it a shot. I just did mine at 1,600 miles and the TBs were close but off a bit. I did it on my K5 at around 6000 miles and it made a big difference in smoothness.

Once you get some permanent extension tubes on the vacuum nipples, you can check and adjust in just a few minutes whenever you want.
 

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DL1k - did TBS at 10k and it was off 5" of mercury (yup, 5"). Just did it again 7k later and it was off 4". I put the vaccum tubing extensions on after the first TBS adjustment and now it takes less than 5min to do a TBS. Will try to post pic later of tubing.
 

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Is there a write-up anywhere in the forum on how to do this?

With only 1000 miles on the clock, my Strom won't hold a steady RPM when I give it gas in neutral.

Tried again yesterday after an oil change. Up on the centerstand, idling in Neutral. Slowly and carefully raised RPM's to 4K and put the throttle lock on. RPM's bounced from 3600 to 4400 RPM's (400 each way) and would not smooth out.

I feel this when I'm riding too, whether the engine is warm or cold.

The throttle bodies shouldn't be that far off at only 1K on the odo, but I know that anything's possible.

Thanks!
~Mike
 

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I am recovering from an accident and typing with one hand so please excuse any typos. But anyway, my TBs were way off with only 200 miles on the clock. Do a synch now, it can only hepl. The process is so simple, but hard for meto typeit now, I feel like an expert now that I have the extention tubes installed like others hace said.
Do not trust the factory settings!
 

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When asking for specific tech tips, it's a good idea to have the specific model appear in the post. A lot of people put their model in their sig.
 

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I've done a couple syncs, too and mine were off both times. My main question is what tool does everyone use to adjust the screw? I use some long (like 7") needle nose pliers to get in the and twist the screw. Sure with that screw was pointing to the outside of the bike. So, what do you use?
 

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I just stuck my hand in there, whilst holding a phillips screwdriver bit from my tool kit. I must admit it did worked a treat.

Now I've just got to wait for the slight burns on my ring finger to heal...... :oops:

Didn't notice it whilst doing the sync, but it scabbed up overnight.
 

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Long needle nose pliers, and a dab of the SOs nail polish to keep it there. Somehow it will be off again after some time.
 

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STROMETTE said:
DL1k - did TBS at 10k and it was off 5" of mercury (yup, 5"). Just did it again 7k later and it was off 4". I put the vaccum tubing extensions on after the first TBS adjustment and now it takes less than 5min to do a TBS. Will try to post pic later of tubing.
Here ya go:


 
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Finally...TBS

With today's horrible weather, I finally bit the bullet and assembled the required materials to build a manometer and to perform the TBS. I followed the directions as others have provided here. Couple of things I noted.

I used 5/32 vacuum tubing from the local auto parts store but they did NOT have any connectors. I did find, however, 1/8" I.D. brass connectors at the local el cheapo (home depot) along with 20 ft of 1/4" I.D. clear vinyl tubing for the manometer.

So, I lift the tank, and took off both side mini-covers. As suggested the front vacuum attachment point was much easier to access than the rear, although frankly I didn't really have too difficult a time with either. I think it may help to actually lay on the ground looking up fronm the left side. From there I just pushed the tube on in front, and repeated for the rear. Mind you the rear I could only get to within a couple inches with my fingers, so I just guided the tube on from about 3-4" which worked fine. Unlike some, I found it much easier to route the vacuum tube lines to the left side of the bike, next to the idle adjustment screw.

I warmed up the bike, adjusted idle to 1200, and connected my newly constructed ATF manometer and Whoa! 18" off balance. Jeez, no wonder she's been rough off idle lately. I was able to reach the adjustment screw with needle nose pliers and balance within an inch of fluid. That was with only about 1/3 of a turn on the screw. I wish there was a finer adjustment range to make the process a little more accurate, but this should make a big difference.

The whole process took me maybe a hour, and much of that was just locating the vacuum measurement points and adjustment screw. Total cost, $12 for vinyl tubing, couplers, vacuum tube and ATF (I already had a 48" dry wall T-square for the manometer). Now, if it will ever stop raining, I'll take her out and find out how much better she runs!


Mc2guy

Edit - Got out for an hour today between monsoons. Wow, major difference. The bike is much smoother during part throttle acceleration and from lower in the rev range. Should never have waited this long.
 
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