No. I changed a rear tire on the road once. It isn't a delicate part but it's a good idea to coat the threads with anti seize to prevent galling. Unless you do a lot of water crossings, enough will remain on the threads to prevent galling after removal and replacement. With a torque wrench and anti seize, it still takes 58lb-ft. to put on the nut. A mildly educated arm will get you in the ball park. The nut's locking mechanism will keep it from coming off. With the tool kit tools, it will be hard to over torque the nut with your arm. You might have use a foot on the tool with the extension included to break the nut free.
I do. A 3/8 and a 1/2 in, but only on long trips like my trip across Canada last year. For shorter trips, where I have to take off the rear wheel, I simply mark (scratch) the nut prior to removal & put it in the same position on reassembly. Not perfect but it works.
IMO, and I'm sure I'll catch all kinds of Hell here for saying this, people are too anal about this kinda crap. Guess I'm old school, but in my 40 years of riding and working on bikes (and cars) I've never used a torque wrench on anything besides internal engine parts. As Grey mentioned, after you've tightened about a million nuts over the course of a lifetime, you tend to develop a feel for how tight it should be. And no, not since I was a kid have I stripped a nut and I've never had anything come loose or fall off... Well aside from my license plate bolts this past weekend, lol. So if you're worried about carrying a freaking torque wrench on a bike trip, just leave it at home, exercise common sense, and you'll be fine. You have a cotter pin on the nut so it's not gonna come off......
+1 to both of ya. Torque wrenches cause far more stripped threads than they prevent.I never use a torque wrench on my bikes. I bet more people have stripped threads using a torque wrench than those that go by feel, particularly since some of the torques listed in the shop manual are wrong. It does not take much wrenching experience and only a little common sense to develop a sense of feel for the nuts/bolts on a piece of machinery.
I get the impression some people think of the proper torque as a point, maybe because that's how manuals are written. It's actually a range. The simplified version is a fastener that is tight enough to hold things together without loosening yet loose enough not to cause damage is in the range. In some situations, that range is pretty small. Those situations are the ones where it pays to own a torque wrench.Mechanic's feel.
I'm not against proper torque, but out of the three torque wrenches I do own, I trust only one of them to not break bolts or strip threads. None of them were cheap bargain basement wrenches.You anti torque wrench guys crack me up. Its like the wrench is possessed and out to destroy your bike. Its a calibrated ratchet. If it doesn't feel right (mechanics feel as you call it just stop).
In addition there's also tensile strength. Easily calculated without a torque wrench. Tighten until the bolt breaks, then back off a quarter turn.You anti torque wrench guys crack me up. Its like the wrench is possessed and out to destroy your bike. Its a calibrated ratchet. If it doesn't feel right (mechanics feel as you call it just stop).
To follow up on GW post...torque is an indirect measure of bolt tension, nothing more, nothing less. Metals have two strengths...elastic - where when released from stress the bolt returns to its original length (thing rubber band) and plastic - where the bolt gets a permanent stretch and is longer than before (think chewing gum). Threads have the same two values. Torque wrenches and torque values exist to make sure the fastener is not tightened past the elastic range plus a margin of error. Therefore you do not subject the bolt to tensions that cause it to permanently stretch. Too loose and it just falls off or allows a part to slip if a shear force is involved.