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Discussion Starter #1
I did a search and I did not find the answer I was looking for.

First, I have basic mechanical skills. I have done lite maintenance on vehicles in the past. I am not the type that can break an engine, etc., and put it all back together.

Anyway, I tightened my chain last night. I followed the Owner's Manual as instructed.

Question: :?:
How freely should the rear wheel be able to spin (by hand) in neutral while on the center stand?

I used a basic tape measure to keep the chain in the .8"-1.2" range, or at least I hope I did. After I got done, I went to give the rear wheel a spin by hand and the wheel would not spin freely, but did move. It just wouldnt spin, you know kinda like the wheel on The Price is Right wheel on the bonus round. All right, you can stop laughing now. :lol:

Somebody give me some pointers, some guideance here..........

Thanks...
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Shankle,

Although the wheel most likely won't spin as fluidly as the Price is Right (good one); it should still go around a few full revolutions when you give it a good yank.

Although an over-tightened chain could possibly cause this, it could be quite a few other things: brakes are sticking, improperly adjusted clutch friction, etc...

You might have to do a bit more snooping around to find the problem :(

Good luck,
Lucky
 

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I disagree with lucky. The stroms have o-ring chains. This creates alot of friction - and tends to stop the wheel pretty easily with a simple spin by hand. When mine is up on the stand, and I give it a good spin, I only get maybe one and a half turns before it stops, maybe two full turns, but it is normal to me. You'll know if something is binding, it won't turn more than a half turn.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Also make sure you don't have the rear wheel canted so the sprocket is slightly off parallel to the drive chain. Even a tiny amount will affect how freely the rear wheel spins. Rear wheel misalignment causes excessive noise and vibration in your final drive as well as it'll play havoc on your chain and sprockets.

I religiously use a Profi Laser C.A.T. (chain alignment tool). It makes the process of perfectly aligning a cycle's drive chain a two minute job. At $90, it ain't cheap, but neither are chain, sprockets and the possibility of final drive failure. And that usually happens when it's cold and wet out and you're already late for an appointment... :wink:
 

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I assume you adjusted the chain while it was off the center stand.
Best to sit on it and double check.
On my KLR250 the difference between no sitting and sitting on it
is very large. If I were to adjust it without sitting on it would have no play whatsoever when I sit on it.
 

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Shankle

The rear wheel won't spin like a front wheel. I always adjust my chain no tighter than 1" and usually it is set at 1 1/4". In 12000 miles the chain has hardly strecthed.
 
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