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hello fellow strom troopers. I have a 2003 dl 1000 that is throwing in/out of gear in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear only at high rpms (in the 5k-7.5k range). It makes a loud click, click, click sound when this is happening. My bike is in tucson, az (usa). I am currently in oregon(usa). I have never personally experienced this issue as I have not ridden the bike for several months and this issue has developed since a fellow rider and good friend has been using the bike. any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Anybody know of a good mechanic in the area(tucson az.)?. I have been told not to visit the local suzuki dealers in town and have also read reviews that are not good to say the least. I love my v-strom and I am stumped on what to do.
 

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When it jumps out of first and second, is it jumping to neutral? Or is it just not staying engaged? When it jumps out of third, is it going between 2nd and 3rd, or 3rd and 4th?

I can't personally think of how that could be happening. Typically the gears are cut in such a way that torque loads applied to them tend to hold them IN gear, not force them out of gear... This is an odd one for me... Anyone else got any ideas?

Also, you mentioned that it happens at high RPMs... But is it at high RPMS and LOW loads, HIGH loads? Coasting or decelerating? Just trying to get more info out there in the hopes someone will have some ideas for you...
 

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The only thing I can think of that could cause this is A LOT of shifting w/o using the clutch, or one that's REALLY out of adjustment.

Normally you can get away with rev-matching and up-shifting without the clutch, but I've seen way too many yahoos doing it on sportbikes w/o even trying to match up the engine speed and just riding the shift lever until it "catches" and goes into gear.

It's also supposedly possible to do it downshifting too. Never done it, hopefully never will.

Either way, the gears grind into each other and over time, I could see this causing enough wear to prevent the gears from positively engaging one another. It'd take a lot of "clutchless" shifting though, I would think.
 

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Aside from a very few, the Vee/Wee Stroms transmissions are the notchiest and clunkiest I have ever experienced on any Suzuki. Suzuki’s typically have one of the slicked transmissions in the business.

Possible scenarios: Worn or improperly adjusted shift linkage; worn or damaged shift shaft; shift drum pawl screw backed out and/or the detent spring and/or pawl damaged; bent/scored shift forks and/or rounded dog gears.

Possible causes: Banging shifts; running chain too tight (binds the transmission shafts and gears).
 

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I would tend towards something being wrong in the shift mechanism, rather than rounded dogs, because it is doing it in multiple gears. Sounds like the dogs are not achieving full engagement when shifting.

BTW, there is essentially no way to match speeds between gears when shifting, either with or without the clutch. As long as you're moving you're always going to be banging dogs moving one speed into a gear (or vice versa) doing a different speed. The best you can do is remove the load on the gears while shifting, either by using the clutch or by manipulating the throttle so that the load on the gear is removed - or by cutting the ignition, which is what the various popular quick shifters do.
 

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I would tend towards something being wrong in the shift mechanism, rather than rounded dogs, because it is doing it in multiple gears. Sounds like the dogs are not achieving full engagement when shifting.

BTW, there is essentially no way to match speeds between gears when shifting, either with or without the clutch. As long as you're moving you're always going to be banging dogs moving one speed into a gear (or vice versa) doing a different speed. The best you can do is remove the load on the gears while shifting, either by using the clutch or by manipulating the throttle so that the load on the gear is removed - or by cutting the ignition, which is what the various popular quick shifters do.

Exactly... you can match revs with a conventional or non-sequential gearbox, but with a constant-mesh sequential gearbox, it's not possible to to match speeds unless you can hold the shifter between gears while you adjust the engine speed up or down to compensate... well, OK, it *may* be possible if going from neutral to 1st or 2nd on a roll, (I've done it in traffic, coasting down a hill before, just to see if I could) but it's still not going to be good for it.

Oh, and something I was thinking about... if it was wear on the dogs, wouldn't that cause it to be worse when under a load? ie, wouldn't it tend to pop out more when accelerating than lightly loaded? If it's not relevant to the load, I would think maybe more the shifter mechanism.... Weak or broken spring on the pawl maybe? But it would seem that even a worn or broken pawl wouldn't let it pop out if the dogs were working properly... Also, I think that bad or worn dogs would cause it to pop out more in one direction than the other, correct? i.e. always on acceleration, never on decel....

It's been a few years since I had a sequential gearbox apart, but it's kinda coming back now...
 

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if it was wear on the dogs, wouldn't that cause it to be worse when under a load? ie, wouldn't it tend to pop out more when accelerating than lightly loaded?
It depends on how much wear is on the gears. The engaging gears (dog gears) in a constant mesh, sequential transmission, are undercut. Under load, if only the leading tips and edges of the gears are rounded, and the shift fork still allows full engagement of the gear, the undercut will hold the gear set in place. If the wear is excessive on any one of those components, yes, the gear set will not hold.

Best thing to do is pull the oil plug and remove the oil filter. Look for any shiny, metallic dust on the drain plug. Cut open the oil filter and inspect the filter media. If you see any metallic particles, I would pull the engine. Regardless of what you find as a cause, the engine will need to be washed out.
 
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