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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I have been a lurker here for a few months now and have decided to get thoughts on this question.

Is there any way to deal with low RPM surge that occurs above idle, but below the 3500 rpm stumbling area of the rpm range. Asking, because this bike is definately throttle sensitive and I am getting smoother and smoother, but at times cannot seem to keep it smooth when coming out of corners without a slight surge. It is mainly when I am taking a 2nd gear turn and beginning to apply throttle as I go through the corner. I have a PC III (currently using Dynojets stock map), tips cut out of the exhaust, secondary's are unknown at this point (bike is still new to me).

Thanks, and have found this site hugely informative, so thanks for everyone's feedback.
 

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Low RPM surge? Do you mean how the engine just chugs after getting back on the throttle when the RPMs are down? My experience has always been that its just a big engine that needs some clutch out of slow second gear turns.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It sounds like that second gear corner is really a first gear corner. The DL1000 has tall gearing. Many riders like to change from the stock 17/41 sprockets to 17/43 or even 16/43.
 

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When running the 17/43 do you know how much the mph drops in 6th gear at 4k rpm. Iirc im around 70mph with the stock gearing.
 

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I wonder if your throttle bodies need syncing. I run a PowerCommander PC-V with 2Bros cans with stock gearing. I get no surging whatsoever even when I lug the engine. When I do lug the engine I find it easier to use the friction zone of the clutch to apply the power smoothly rather than going down to first. I find first gear too low for most riding except when riding slowly in a parking lot. If you have a PC (III or V), you should have no stumbling at 3500-4000. I can peg my throttle in 2nd from 1500 rpm to wide open and I experience no stumbling, surging, or any other issue (well, I do have the clutch chudder until I do the fix this winter). So, perhaps check the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the TBS to ensure everything is dead nuts on.

That's my 2 cents, anyway.
Steve
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Either the rough spot has to be cleaned up or the revs have to be kept up, rider's choice.
 

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It is mainly when I am taking a 2nd gear turn and beginning to apply throttle as I go through the corner. I have a PC III (currently using Dynojets stock map), tips cut out of the exhaust, secondary's are unknown at this point (bike is still new to me).
Could it be an operator issue? I was taught, and have found much better results if I finish my braking and get back on the gas before starting the turn, then maintain or gently roll on while exiting. You don't want to be getting on or off the throttle while heeled-over mid-turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks all. I just rode my bike to a customer appointment and realized that my problem is actually just above 1500 rpm as I am pulling away from a stop. I guess I need to figure out where exactly I feel it before posting. I think this may be more of a driver issue more than anything else. Still learning how to ride this bike smoothly. I did forget to mention that I do have the 43 rear sproket. Btw someone mentioned what speed you are actually going at 70 on the speedo. With 43 tooth rear and stock front my gps shows about 62 or 63 basically about 8 under.
 

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1500rpm is too low to have the clutch completely engaged. 2500 is about the minimum, even for a bike without a lean stumble.
 

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Cowboys aint easy to love
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On a DL1000, neither the clutch nor the throttle belong entirely to the operator. The clutch, being hydraulically actuated, decides when it wants to start doing something and how fast to do it once it decides to start. The throttle, operating a FI system, reminds me of a very-eager miniature dog, "I think he wants me to do so-and-so. Oh, how I hope I please him!" Those two characteristics are my only operating complaints about the Vee. I'd rather have a Wee clutch and a carburetor.

However, my DL1K6 has for me been free of the complaints many riders seem to have. Part of this I blame on being hard of hearing -- if I don't hear it, it don't bother me. I have 17/43 gearing which was installed when I bought the bike used. I haven't experimented with any other choices. If I did, I'd go to still-lower gearing, 17/45 or even 16/45, because I don't need the triple-digit speeds that I can reach so easily now. At any rate, on level pavement I can ease away from a dead stop at idle, which is around 1200 RPM. I just don't do it that way very often.
 

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Gearing. I just installed 17/45 on my bike with a new chain last night. Make sure your chain is in good shape as that can create some awkwardness as well when accelerating out of a corner.

With the 17/45 and a 114 link chain (in there for those researching, 114 fits perfect), 2nd gear is much shorter than it was at first. I agree that the difference between 1st & 2nd is huge with doing in-town riding with the stock set up. Now, its perfect.

My bike is otherwise stock and I will be doing a Yosh Box tune at some point to fix the lean condition coming off idle and decelerating. A TBS is mandatory too.

Unless you do nothing but high speed commuting, 17/41 is simply too tall.
 

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The yosh tune will clean this up. My clutch is engaged at 1500 rpm no problem and with stock gearing. It comes off idle perfect now. I can let my clutch out with no throttle application at all and she takes right off willing to do any dirty deed asked of her.

BTW...my PAIR valve is no longer fuctioning as its dissconnected. It makes the bike lean off idle also.

The Vee can run well trust me, my dyno shop made a believer out of me. But it cost me about 4 mpg in the process.
 

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1500rpm is too low to have the clutch completely engaged. 2500 is about the minimum, even for a bike without a lean stumble.
I have a steep gravel drive way that I climb out of every ride clutch completely out at about 1500 rpms. No spudders at all even when cold. If you need to rev to 2500 in order to get a smother start then the bike has some tuning issues IMO.
 

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Marty, your profile says no Strom yet. What do you have?
 

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OK fixed it. Oh and all of my bikes will climb the steep gravel driveway clutch out at just a tick above idle even the hi revving FZ1 will.
 

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PC III worked wonders on my Vee, pretty much eliminated the problem. But I have to say that the difference between low RPM 's on my Vee and on my C 14 is pretty amazing. The C 14 will pull very smoothly from much, much lower rpm's than the Strom. Not sure why, but it does.

Its interesting, I went from I4's to my Vee and then back to a really big I4.

It is not better, it's different. The speed difference is frankly startling. But having experienced it I'm pretty sure that I prefer the feel and sound of a V twin. Love the torque too.

Makes me wonder how much fun an SV 1000 would be--limited though it is in regards to comfort. That would be a cool pair to own. The Connie for two up riding and the SV for that great solitary run you sometimes have to make.
 

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PC III worked wonders on my Vee, pretty much eliminated the problem. But I have to say that the difference between low RPM 's on my Vee and on my C 14 is pretty amazing. The C 14 will pull very smoothly from much, much lower rpm's than the Strom. Not sure why, but it does.

Its interesting, I went from I4's to my Vee and then back to a really big I4.

It is not better, it's different. The speed difference is frankly startling. But having experienced it I'm pretty sure that I prefer the feel and sound of a V twin. Love the torque too.

Makes me wonder how much fun an SV 1000 would be--limited though it is in regards to comfort. That would be a cool pair to own. The Connie for two up riding and the SV for that great solitary run you sometimes have to make.
Did you have to get the bike dyno tuned as well? I have the surging issue all over the place and was contemplating building my own Yosh Box in lieu of spending tons of cash on a PCIII.

I too went from I4s to this V2. Much different like you said. I can't say which I prefer, but the Strom has what I need at the moment and I can only have one bike right now.

I do think that the inherent roughness of a V2 is a big change for me. With my I4 bikes, sitting at a light was like sitting on a bicycle. With the Vee, I shake much more noticeably always reminded that I only have two cylinders between my legs.
 

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I'd agree with those that suggest a PCIII remap or similar and making sure everything is in sync and there are no vacuum leaks.

While the big Vee doesn't really like lots of throttle below say 3,000, it will pull smoothly at light throttle openings from way below that if you have the tuning right. I actually enjoy the lower end of the rpm range in the city now and the bike has amazing torque right at idle, you can just let out the clutch smoothly and it will pull very strong right at idle, say for parking maneuvers etc.

It's is amazing how smooth this engine can run when all things are right. It still has it's vibration patches, and doesn't like to have the throttle whacked open at say 2,000 rpm, but it will run very cleanly and smoothly at low rpms, not only 4,000 and above.

It will never match the low rpm smoothness of a I4, the power impulses are too spread out for that. The I6 makes the I4 look rough in comparison.

I haven't owned an I4 for many many years, kinda miss riding one once in a while. Test rode a couple before buying the Vee but decided the big twin was still my preference overall. Maybe an I4 will find it's way into my garage to park along side the others when a good deal shows itself to me. :thumbup:

But I'd have to say I'm more intrigued by a Hinckly triple to be honest. Rode that Tiger 800XC, what a SWEET engine, mmm, mmm.
 
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