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Discussion Starter #1
I got my VStrom ready to sync the carbs with my homemade TBS tool, hooked it up and the “plastic” Gatorade bottles I used collapsed. I sat there for a sec trying to figure out why they were collapsing in on themselves, when suddenly the lightbulb went off. Dimly, but it went off. So, off to find a couple glass jars.

What does everyone use to adjust the screw? That’s a bit h getting to.
 

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I loosen the fairing and reach in there with my latex free double gloved hand, and I have adjusted MANY 1000's over the years and am damn good at it........well I used to be, now I own a 650 and just ride. ;)
 

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I don't remove anything when I do mine. Just slide your hand through the side frame triangle and turn the adjuster. It's super easy.
 

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My meathooks are too bulky to get in there without at least loosening the fairings. Even if I could get in there, I can't turn a Philips head screw without some sort of tool.

I bought special, extra-long needle nose pliers to turn that thing. Like these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-PSX204C-Reach-Plier-2-Piece/dp/B00N9ULHO6/

Even with those, I can't get much of a grip on the relevant screw & it's a big pain in the butt. Fortunately, you usually don't need to turn the screw very far to get the TB's balanced.

If you want to really go nuts there exist special long-handled, right-angle-head screwdriving tools. This one might work:

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0119-Pilot-Adjusting/dp/B000UKD6YC

However I try not to buy single-use tools. Not sure that one would work anyway - may not be enough vertical room, don't remember, haven't had to do a TBS for a couple of years.

Has anyone replaced the offending screw with something more tractable, like a knob or hex-head screw? Anything you can get a grip on from the side should work.
 

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Dunno about other years but on my '07, there's no room to swing your ordinary right-angle or offset screwdriver. It's likely the Motion Pro "Pilot Screw" tool won't work for the same reason.

You pretty much have remove the fairings to have a chance at getting at that TB balance screw. Or at least loosen the right one enough to be pushed sorta-outta the way.

FWIW I think these are the extended pliers I ended up getting:

https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-PSX200C-Long-Reach-Pliers/dp/B0091KHK6C

<$20 and well-made. Satisfyingly solid action - no slop or play in the mechanism. 1000 other uses besides TBS. Great to retrieve a non-magnetic part I've dropped inside the fairings, or get a grip on a line that I can see, but can't reach without removing umpteen other assemblies.

If the $$ is worth it to you, you can probably get in there without removing or loosening anything, using this magnificent beast:

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0229-Degree-Driver/dp/B000GV1UJS
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I adjusted them, or attempted to. I hooked up hoses to jars of fluid and I got some fluid sucked up into the line that runs into each jar. I started with the fluid even and no change when I moved screw back ad forth, only slight movement with the fluid in the line that runs from jar to jar. The bike seems to rub fine, but it pretty much did to begin with, I only did it because the bike is kinda new to me. Weird though that that I couldn't get the fluid to go back and forth with screw adjustment. I took it out for about a 20 mile ride, and it seems to ride ok.

Any thoughts?
 

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I adjusted them..... I started with the fluid even and no change when I moved screw back ad forth, only slight movement with the fluid in the line that runs from jar to jar. Any thoughts?
mine is an 08. I can tell TBS is needed when I try to do a pass on a two lane road with limited visibility. If I grab a handful expecting the bike to rocket forward, but all it does is dog out, it is time for a TBS. If I ride easy and throttle up slow, it always responds inkind as if everything is fine and synced. So, your 20 mile ride may prove nothing, depending on how you rode it.

As for the lack of movement of fluid between the jars, when I get to the point of no movement of fluid, I consider my job done and the sync a success. For my bike, getting to that point is agonizing. It takes a bit of time and messing with the screw. But I am absolutely certain there are no vacuum leaks in my system. A vacuum leak will result in no movement of the fluids in the jars.

And make absolute certain that the hose you are using can hold up to the vacuum and not collapse. If the vacuum collapses your hose the result will be no movement in the level of the liquid between the jars.

To be sure that your DIY manometer is working properly, and not actually leaking any of the vacuum (which will also result in no movement of the fluid in the jars) recheck all of your connections. If you can easily pull the hose off any of those brass tubes on the bike, get smaller inside diameter hose. Also, make sure there is sufficient sealer (like silicone) around the hoses at the places they penetrate the lids.

Oh, and when you begin, it is best to fill just one jar 3/4 full of liquid. Then pour half of that into the other jar and start there. The two jars have the same amount of liquid and all of the liquid in one single jar is not sufficient to get sucked up into the throttle body. This will guarantee no fluid gets sucked into your throttle bodies should one pull a harder vacuum than the other before you can get control of things. You DO NOT want fluid sucked into the engine that way.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yarz1,

Thanks, for the tutorial. I will double check seal on the lids to make sure there is no leaking. I'm not sure what I will use, other than Vaseline or something. The silicone I used where the hoses run into tops of jars are good. I will however double check though.

As far as my throttle response, I did "gun it" and it responded immediately, so I'm thinking it can't be off by much, but your advice is good and I will double check seals. When I installed all my hoses to the nipples, they were good and snug.

Cheers
 
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