The Big Oil Thread!!!! The Only Oil Thread!!!!
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Wow, another oil thread!
Nuttin better than another long discussion on oil.....
I've used Spectro Synthetic 10W/40, Amsoil synth 10W/40, Shell Rotella Synthetic - 5W/40, and currently trying Shell Rotella Dino 15W/40. Interesting...the 15W/40 Shell has given the best, smoothest shifting, mostly eliminating the "clunk" into 1st gear. Also the least expensive...
Nuttin better than another long discussion on oil.....
I've used Spectro Synthetic 10W/40, Amsoil synth 10W/40, Shell Rotella Synthetic - 5W/40, and currently trying Shell Rotella Dino 15W/40. Interesting...the 15W/40 Shell has given the best, smoothest shifting, mostly eliminating the "clunk" into 1st gear. Also the least expensive...
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My intent here was not to create debate. Just to survey members about what oil they are using. Nothing more.
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I've never heard of anything negative about any oil that meets the minimum SAE & Viscosity specs and is changed at least as regular as recommended in the OM
oil is oil
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Oil Bible
For those who believe in it:
Oil Bible
Wal-Mart Oils of Interest(None are 'energy conserving'):
Brand________________________ Price ______Oil Bible Rating
Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40.... $17-$18/gallon......730
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40... $9.02/gallon.........684
Chevron Delo 1300 Super 15w40.. $11-$10/gallon..... 676
Shell Rotella T 15w40................ $11 - $10/gallon.....631
Unless you're driving some kind of race bike, I think you're probably O.K. with any of the above. As been said, even cheaper oils would probably be O.K. if you changed them frequently enough. JMHO
I'm currently running Rotella synthetic, will try Rotella dino 15w40 next, then afterwards with go with the highlighted Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 'Million Mile Oil' following that.
For those who believe in it:
Oil Bible
Wal-Mart Oils of Interest(None are 'energy conserving'):
Brand________________________ Price ______Oil Bible Rating
Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40.... $17-$18/gallon......730
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40... $9.02/gallon.........684
Chevron Delo 1300 Super 15w40.. $11-$10/gallon..... 676
Shell Rotella T 15w40................ $11 - $10/gallon.....631
Unless you're driving some kind of race bike, I think you're probably O.K. with any of the above. As been said, even cheaper oils would probably be O.K. if you changed them frequently enough. JMHO
I'm currently running Rotella synthetic, will try Rotella dino 15w40 next, then afterwards with go with the highlighted Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 'Million Mile Oil' following that.
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Nothing but Johnson's Baby Oil. Keeps my engine running butter-smooth.
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C'mon, get real. Anybody who's been around motorcycle forums longer than 13 nanoseconds should know that's not possible.
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338 Posts
I never said it was possible - Just stated my intent
OK, how many guys know of any motorcycle, Vee, Wee or other that has blown up, ever, because of the "wrong" oil?
If yes, I'm sorry to hear it, if no, I rest my case.
Even running the "car oils" that are non-energy conserving and supposedly don't have all the right additives for our bikes valve trains (cam lobes esp.) has never caused an engine to wear out that I am aware of. Maybe extending it out well past 100,000 miles might add a few examples of failure, but oil is so good these days that we are doing more for our own minds than we ever are doing for our bikes.
Hey, I am one of those guys that wants to put the best into my pride and joy, but reality says the bike can't tell the difference from a longevity standpoint. I totally agree that different oils can help/hurt shift quality, etc but I'm talking engine longevity.
BUT, for the sake of the intent of this thread, I use Rotella 5w-40 in the colder months and back to a 10w/15w-40/50 in the summer, all depending on my mood at the time of the oil change. Currently, I am running a NAPA 15w-50 full syn. that I picked up last year for the heck of it. Ran it for about 4,000 miles last summer, then ran the above Rotella for the next 4,000 miles or so, then back, to the last 3 qts. of the NAPA oil this summer. FYI, when I put shims in during the valve adustment, the cam lobes looked great and the bike is just about to turn 27,000 miles.
Just goes to show you how much the oil companies put into their ad campaign to make us think it is such a big deal!
If yes, I'm sorry to hear it, if no, I rest my case.
Even running the "car oils" that are non-energy conserving and supposedly don't have all the right additives for our bikes valve trains (cam lobes esp.) has never caused an engine to wear out that I am aware of. Maybe extending it out well past 100,000 miles might add a few examples of failure, but oil is so good these days that we are doing more for our own minds than we ever are doing for our bikes.
Hey, I am one of those guys that wants to put the best into my pride and joy, but reality says the bike can't tell the difference from a longevity standpoint. I totally agree that different oils can help/hurt shift quality, etc but I'm talking engine longevity.
BUT, for the sake of the intent of this thread, I use Rotella 5w-40 in the colder months and back to a 10w/15w-40/50 in the summer, all depending on my mood at the time of the oil change. Currently, I am running a NAPA 15w-50 full syn. that I picked up last year for the heck of it. Ran it for about 4,000 miles last summer, then ran the above Rotella for the next 4,000 miles or so, then back, to the last 3 qts. of the NAPA oil this summer. FYI, when I put shims in during the valve adustment, the cam lobes looked great and the bike is just about to turn 27,000 miles.
Just goes to show you how much the oil companies put into their ad campaign to make us think it is such a big deal!
yeah.. my engine exploded after putting nice fresh oil in it..
dont do it :devil_16::devil_16::devil_16:
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Valve trains are not a problem on motorcycles. Most modern European car valve trains are far more sophisticated than most motorcycles.
The problem with motorcycles is the fact that the engine oil lubricates the gearbox which means that it's subjected to shear forces far above anything experienced in a nice safe auto engine. The gears meshing in the motorcycle gearbox literally tear the oil structure apart so whilst standard car engine oil in the correct weight can be used it must be changed far more often than the same oil would be in a car engine.
The only things to consider are the correct SAE rating (which is the spec the oil meets and indicates what additives and modifiers it contains) the correct viscosity (weight ie. 15w40) and the frequency of changes (as per the user manual). The brand is not relevant and generally cheaper oil from a known brand will perform just was well as the expensive so called specialist oils.
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So what happened at after 50,000+ miles?!:bom_laugh4:
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M/C specific Amsoil 10-40.
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I've been using AMSOIL 10w-40 exclusively in my bikes for close to 30 yrs. I've only had engine failure with every single one of them.
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Wow, 23 replies. Everyone hates oil threads....until someone starts one!
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Shell Rotella Dino. On the other Strom sight I looked at the first 10 bikes for sale in their used section, the average mileage was 11K. Most people will never see any benefit from using expensive oil, assuming there is a benefit.
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The Big Oil Thread!!!!
Since my 600 mi. service (done at 850mi.) I bit the bullet and bought Amsoil 10w-40. The manual says to change it again at 4000 mi. and I only have 2000 on it. Too soon, or am I a day late & a few bucks short?
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Since my 600 mi. service (done at 850mi.) I bit the bullet and bought Amsoil 10w-40. The manual says to change it again at 4000 mi. and I only have 2000 on it. Too soon, or am I a day late & a few bucks short?
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