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2011 V-Strom 650 and 2018 V-Strom 1000XT
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Shameless plug for Maxima SynBlend 10w40. After having a 650 and 1000 and a handful of different oil brands in each, the Maxima stuff has been the best. Runs smoother and shifts sooooo much better.
I’ll regret bringing this up….but damn I’ve been impressed!
 

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I just switched to T4 from Supertech Moto10w40.

Since I did few seconds redline riding. Oil consumption occurred. Topped it off.

Feels great as day I got it.

Still using Suzuki oil filters and following their oil change/filter intervals. Sometimes I'm bit early or late depending on riding days/trip

I put 29k and counting in 2 years(in June). First owner rode 5k miles, 2nd owner 20k miles in their 14 years of owning it.

They did full synthetic with complete change every 2k miles.

It sees 12-14 hours of 5500 to 6500 rpm highway riding non stop at least 6 times a year. With 7,500 rpm here and there.

I dont see reason of spending high dollar oil unless I dont ride much which I believe will help in the age factor. In that case. I'd spend more for higher quality oil if it doesnt ride much. Just like previous owner did.
is that consumption, or loss, overspray into the breather, if you check the air filter compartment i find oil in there... sometimes a lot, but engine has 19k and is tight
 

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That was funny. :)

Anyway, are there any MFG's that recommend ONLY fully synthetic oil?? :unsure:

#10 FTW!!

10.) The best place to get advice about oil is to post a question on the forums
JC:
Any time you post a question about oil in a forum or on social media, you are bound to get a lot of different opinions – many of which may not be the best advice. If you have questions about what oil to use for a specific application, we at Motul are always happy to share our expertise. You can contact us through the Motul website and your questions will be forwarded to either myself or one of our other oil techs.

:unsure:

Me thinks Motul is going to say buy Motul products no matter what stupid question you have for them.
motul sucketh. went from 10-40 motul with KnN filter, at 6k on bike odo and 3k on the oil, to 4T Mobil and it got so smooov in the transmission. Since then, any oil is about the same in motor, even ran Motul crap again because a case came with bike.
 

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T6 5w40 JASO MA/MA2 user here also. Went from ActEvo semi 15w40 to T6 and the shifting was noticeably better.
good to hear these comments on actevo craptevo oil, i saw two on here now, will avoid what was the 1st option coming up on wally's site. ty
 

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I may have said this b4, but it bears repeating. In 45 yrs and multiple bikes, I have used nearly every brand of oil available, regular, semi-synth, full-synth, both m/c specific and auto/diesel. Never had an oil related engine problem, and any shifting trouble caused by a lazy left foot on my part.
Are some oils better than others? Certianly, but you would have to do a chemical analysis to know it.
 

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@locoblanco

What’s your typical mileage. I keep my Toyotas, that I drive for work, to at least 250,000 miles. Several have gone over 400,000 miles. No rebuilds, no upper cylinder work. All sold running.

I have used only Mobil 1 synthetic oils in everything. That’s my data point.
 

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@locoblanco

What’s your typical mileage. I keep my Toyotas, that I drive for work, to at least 250,000 miles. Several have gone over 400,000 miles. No rebuilds, no upper cylinder work. All sold running.

I have used only Mobil 1 synthetic oils in everything. That’s my data point.
And it is just one data point.

Without doing the same driving using other oils in similar conditions you don't know if the Mobil 1 helped the engines last longer or if it perhaps hurt their durability. Maybe the same engines would have lasted much longer with the cheapest 10w30 but without testing it in the cars you really don't know. (Having said that I like using synthetic oil and feel engines do last longer with it. I just don't have any proof that it's the case.)

..Tom
 

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And it is just one data point.

Without doing the same driving using other oils in similar conditions you don't know if the Mobil 1 helped the engines last longer or if it perhaps hurt their durability. Maybe the same engines would have lasted much longer with the cheapest 10w30 but without testing it in the cars you really don't know. (Having said that I like using synthetic oil and feel engines do last longer with it. I just don't have any proof that it's the case.)

..Tom
Statistically, for me, it would be seven data points across different Toyotas. I have several friends with Toyotas and many others with imports that run whatever Jiffy Lube has in a drum. They have not gotten the mileage I have. A bit of research outside this thread would be enlightening, if you want to fact check me.

At 400,000 miles I put head gaskets on my Taco V-6. It would have been a good time to do a hone, rings and valve job. I was prepared to do just that. The valve seats looked good, the cams were perfect, and the cross hatching in the cylinder walls looked like new. Slapped head gaskets back in and continued driving it.

The above personal experience was using OCIs of 15,000 miles between oil and filter changes.

Why in my right mind would I go technologically backwards and try to kill an expensive vehicle with conventional oil.

BTW - what oil type is Porsche factory filling with these days?

😉
 

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And it is just one data point.

Without doing the same driving using other oils in similar conditions you don't know if the Mobil 1 helped the engines last longer or if it perhaps hurt their durability. Maybe the same engines would have lasted much longer with the cheapest 10w30 but without testing it in the cars you really don't know. (Having said that I like using synthetic oil and feel engines do last longer with it. I just don't have any proof that it's the case.)

..Tom
Yeah, my data point is a couple of Hemi Rams with 175K on them. No issues and the oil they get is whatever the bulk non synthetic is at Valvoline Instant Oil Change ;)
 
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