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1. Rotella gets dirty quicker too.
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I don't know how true it is but I have been lead to believe if the oil gets dirtier quicker it is because the detergents etc are doing a better job of cleaning the crap out of the engine.

Better informed minds are likely to set me straight on this. :)

..Tom
 

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Yogi Berra weighs in on the oil discussion.
Priceless.
Locoblanco , please make sure you give proper attribution to that one. Stromnation owns it. I just grabbed it. Thanks TM

Stromation said:
Also interested in the results

I've been running 300V on both bikes for a couple years. The only exception I've encountered in my research of this oil is that it should not be mistaken for a traditional synthetic (an oxymoron is there ever was one): as it is formulated for endurance racing, it tends to break down more quickly than the aforementioned traditional synthetic. While I might press my luck and push a Mobile synthetic product (for example) up around 5k mi between oil changes, I never let the 300V stay longer than 4k mi ... or less. Worth the extra price IMHO
 

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So now we want to know how an oil that breaks down faster is “worth the extra price”.


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I'd never run the 300V, but the 7100 is for sure a long interval true synthetic. :) Rotella is a darker oil from the start compared to lets say Mobil 1 4T, I noticed that the first time I ever used it years ago. I always ran Mobil1 4T for 4k miles, I'll do the same with the 7100.......love the blood red color and it smells nice too. LMAO
 

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Locoblanco , please make sure you give proper attribution to that one. Stromnation owns it. I just grabbed it. Thanks TM

Stromation said:
Also interested in the results

I've been running 300V on both bikes for a couple years. The only exception I've encountered in my research of this oil is that it should not be mistaken for a traditional synthetic (an oxymoron is there ever was one): as it is formulated for endurance racing, it tends to break down more quickly than the aforementioned traditional synthetic. While I might press my luck and push a Mobile synthetic product (for example) up around 5k mi between oil changes, I never let the 300V stay longer than 4k mi ... or less. Worth the extra price IMHO
 

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"its formulated for endurance racing so it breaks down quicker". There's your oxymoron.
I was gonna let this one go because ... well, this is the Internet, after all ... but in order to alleviate the inferred tendency to dismiss Motul 300V as a viable engine oil solution, I will attempt to clarify my point.

The original statement was: "...as it is formulated for endurance racing, it tends to break down more quickly than the aforementioned traditional synthetic." (Note the original statement does not say 'formulated for endurance riding')
  • ...meaning, its performance is superior for extreme engine application (like endurance racing) but doesn't hold up quite as well in extended miles applications often associated with daily street riding. Endurance races (like the Suzuka 8 hour) generally run less than 3,000 mi (see this article for a 3,000 mi race). In other words, if using a road racing, ester-based, synthetic oil in your motorcycle, plan on changing that oil around every 3k mi, to be on the safe side.
Interested in increasing your mileage between oil changes? Choose a product other than Motul 300V.

Not wishing to encourage further buffoonery, links are provided below that may help to explain synthetic additives such as ester, and the role it plays in synthetic oils. It is, however, accurate to state here that " Esters are stable molecules, provide good solvency, and provide very good low-temperature and high-temperature performance in engine oils." (What is ester oil | Mobil™).

Not all synthetics contain ester. Motul 300V does.

Here's a really short explanation/clarification (It's a video - no reading required):

Dated, trusted:
Differences in Synthetics:

Motul in the News
 

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I prefer more buffoonery. I still see no reason to use an oil that breaks down sooner “but is worth it” on a street bike. I prefer my oil to not break down so I can run it longer. Oil snobbery not withstanding.


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I was gonna let this one go because ... well, this is the Internet, after all ... but in order to alleviate the inferred tendency to dismiss Motul 300V as a viable engine oil solution, I will attempt to clarify my point.

The original statement was: "...as it is formulated for endurance racing, it tends to break down more quickly than the aforementioned traditional synthetic." (Note the original statement does not say 'formulated for endurance riding')
  • ...meaning, its performance is superior for extreme engine application (like endurance racing) but doesn't hold up quite as well in extended miles applications often associated with daily street riding. Endurance races (like the Suzuka 8 hour) generally run less than 3,000 mi (see this article for a 3,000 mi race). In other words, if using a road racing, ester-based, synthetic oil in your motorcycle, plan on changing that oil around every 3k mi, to be on the safe side.
Interested in increasing your mileage between oil changes? Choose a product other than Motul 300V.

Not wishing to encourage further buffoonery, links are provided below that may help to explain synthetic additives such as ester, and the role it plays in synthetic oils. It is, however, accurate to state here that " Esters are stable molecules, provide good solvency, and provide very good low-temperature and high-temperature performance in engine oils." (What is ester oil | Mobil™).

Not all synthetics contain ester. Motul 300V does.

Here's a really short explanation/clarification (It's a video - no reading required):

Dated, trusted:
Differences in Synthetics:

Motul in the News
Stromnation, excellent article and links. I concur that 300V might not be everyone's cup of goo. I have mentioned before that as a racing oil it is formulated for more frequent changes - not that it breaks down but rather it is not built with detergency/alkalinity to ward off corrosion from combustion by-products and thus is somewhat dangerous for storage. Motul data sheets clearly indicate this. I make no claim to the duration till breakdown and loss of quality. Blackstone would be the best source for a miles/hours degradation schedule. I stand by 300V as being a top contender in the category of lubricant. Cheers
 

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Stromnation, excellent article and links. I concur that 300V might not be everyone's cup of goo. I have mentioned before that as a racing oil it is formulated for more frequent changes - not that it breaks down but rather it is not built with detergency/alkalinity to ward off corrosion from combustion by-products and thus is somewhat dangerous for storage. Motul data sheets clearly indicate this. I make no claim to the duration till breakdown and loss of quality. Blackstone would be the best source for a miles/hours degradation schedule. I stand by 300V as being a top contender in the category of lubricant. Cheers
I’ll agree, it’s a great RACE lubricant. I want a street oil that can go the distance and protect the engine for STREET riding.


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