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1. Rotella gets dirty quicker too.
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I don't know how true it is but I have been lead to believe if the oil gets dirtier quicker it is because the detergents etc are doing a better job of cleaning the crap out of the engine.

Better informed minds are likely to set me straight on this. :)

..Tom
 

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Yogi Berra weighs in on the oil discussion.
Priceless.
Locoblanco , please make sure you give proper attribution to that one. Stromnation owns it. I just grabbed it. Thanks TM

Stromation said:
Also interested in the results

I've been running 300V on both bikes for a couple years. The only exception I've encountered in my research of this oil is that it should not be mistaken for a traditional synthetic (an oxymoron is there ever was one): as it is formulated for endurance racing, it tends to break down more quickly than the aforementioned traditional synthetic. While I might press my luck and push a Mobile synthetic product (for example) up around 5k mi between oil changes, I never let the 300V stay longer than 4k mi ... or less. Worth the extra price IMHO
 

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So now we want to know how an oil that breaks down faster is “worth the extra price”.


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I'd never run the 300V, but the 7100 is for sure a long interval true synthetic. :) Rotella is a darker oil from the start compared to lets say Mobil 1 4T, I noticed that the first time I ever used it years ago. I always ran Mobil1 4T for 4k miles, I'll do the same with the 7100.......love the blood red color and it smells nice too. LMAO
 

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Locoblanco , please make sure you give proper attribution to that one. Stromnation owns it. I just grabbed it. Thanks TM

Stromation said:
Also interested in the results

I've been running 300V on both bikes for a couple years. The only exception I've encountered in my research of this oil is that it should not be mistaken for a traditional synthetic (an oxymoron is there ever was one): as it is formulated for endurance racing, it tends to break down more quickly than the aforementioned traditional synthetic. While I might press my luck and push a Mobile synthetic product (for example) up around 5k mi between oil changes, I never let the 300V stay longer than 4k mi ... or less. Worth the extra price IMHO
 

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"its formulated for endurance racing so it breaks down quicker". There's your oxymoron.
I was gonna let this one go because ... well, this is the Internet, after all ... but in order to alleviate the inferred tendency to dismiss Motul 300V as a viable engine oil solution, I will attempt to clarify my point.

The original statement was: "...as it is formulated for endurance racing, it tends to break down more quickly than the aforementioned traditional synthetic." (Note the original statement does not say 'formulated for endurance riding')
  • ...meaning, its performance is superior for extreme engine application (like endurance racing) but doesn't hold up quite as well in extended miles applications often associated with daily street riding. Endurance races (like the Suzuka 8 hour) generally run less than 3,000 mi (see this article for a 3,000 mi race). In other words, if using a road racing, ester-based, synthetic oil in your motorcycle, plan on changing that oil around every 3k mi, to be on the safe side.
Interested in increasing your mileage between oil changes? Choose a product other than Motul 300V.

Not wishing to encourage further buffoonery, links are provided below that may help to explain synthetic additives such as ester, and the role it plays in synthetic oils. It is, however, accurate to state here that " Esters are stable molecules, provide good solvency, and provide very good low-temperature and high-temperature performance in engine oils." (What is ester oil | Mobil™).

Not all synthetics contain ester. Motul 300V does.

Here's a really short explanation/clarification (It's a video - no reading required):

Dated, trusted:
Differences in Synthetics:

Motul in the News
 

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I was gonna let this one go because ... well, this is the Internet, after all ... but in order to alleviate the inferred tendency to dismiss Motul 300V as a viable engine oil solution, I will attempt to clarify my point.

The original statement was: "...as it is formulated for endurance racing, it tends to break down more quickly than the aforementioned traditional synthetic." (Note the original statement does not say 'formulated for endurance riding')
  • ...meaning, its performance is superior for extreme engine application (like endurance racing) but doesn't hold up quite as well in extended miles applications often associated with daily street riding. Endurance races (like the Suzuka 8 hour) generally run less than 3,000 mi (see this article for a 3,000 mi race). In other words, if using a road racing, ester-based, synthetic oil in your motorcycle, plan on changing that oil around every 3k mi, to be on the safe side.
Interested in increasing your mileage between oil changes? Choose a product other than Motul 300V.

Not wishing to encourage further buffoonery, links are provided below that may help to explain synthetic additives such as ester, and the role it plays in synthetic oils. It is, however, accurate to state here that " Esters are stable molecules, provide good solvency, and provide very good low-temperature and high-temperature performance in engine oils." (What is ester oil | Mobil™).

Not all synthetics contain ester. Motul 300V does.

Here's a really short explanation/clarification (It's a video - no reading required):

Dated, trusted:
Differences in Synthetics:

Motul in the News
Stromnation, excellent article and links. I concur that 300V might not be everyone's cup of goo. I have mentioned before that as a racing oil it is formulated for more frequent changes - not that it breaks down but rather it is not built with detergency/alkalinity to ward off corrosion from combustion by-products and thus is somewhat dangerous for storage. Motul data sheets clearly indicate this. I make no claim to the duration till breakdown and loss of quality. Blackstone would be the best source for a miles/hours degradation schedule. I stand by 300V as being a top contender in the category of lubricant. Cheers
 

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Stromnation, excellent article and links. I concur that 300V might not be everyone's cup of goo. I have mentioned before that as a racing oil it is formulated for more frequent changes - not that it breaks down but rather it is not built with detergency/alkalinity to ward off corrosion from combustion by-products and thus is somewhat dangerous for storage. Motul data sheets clearly indicate this. I make no claim to the duration till breakdown and loss of quality. Blackstone would be the best source for a miles/hours degradation schedule. I stand by 300V as being a top contender in the category of lubricant. Cheers
I’ll agree, it’s a great RACE lubricant. I want a street oil that can go the distance and protect the engine for STREET riding.


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Mmmm... I just put 20w50 Valvoline Jaso MA conventional in the bike and took her for a nice ride. I love this oil in this bike. All butt dyno analysis, but it's the nicest oil I've run in this low rpm torque beast. Improved shifting, engine noise, low rpm confidence (don't ask me to explain that one.. the bike just feels better at low rpms on this oil). Now if you were a 5k-8k rpm rider, you might want something thinner 😏

I rarely find myself over 4k rpms unless it's deliberate. If I'm just riding, this bike loves 3-4k rpms all day in almost any scenario.

Old school dinosaurs for the win and let The Big Oil Thread flaming begin! 😁
 

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2016 DL650 bought used w/3600mi now 11000mi. 2004 Honda VTX1300 bought used w/1079mi now 90100mi.
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It must be good if you love it and it is the nicest oil. Is there a PPM rating in UOA. Just wondering.
 

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It must be good if you love it and it is the nicest oil. Is there a PPM rating in UOA. Just wondering.
Who's got time for UOAs!! Ride!

I spent many years on BITOG, performed loads of UOAs on my vehicles, and what I learned through all of it... people quibble over PPM (parts per million) as though it makes any significant difference on engine life. It doesn't. The other thing I learned is that oil has a much higher useful life than almost every manufacturer will admit. There was a guy on BITOG that did 25k mile oil changes with Walmart SuperTech branded oil. His UOAs looked fine and he did it to prove a point to the obsessed oil crowd :p
 

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2016 DL650 bought used w/3600mi now 11000mi. 2004 Honda VTX1300 bought used w/1079mi now 90100mi.
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There was a guy on BITOG that did 25k mile oil changes with Walmart SuperTech branded oil. His UOAs looked fine and he did it to prove a point to the obsessed oil crowd :p
Do you have a link to this?
 

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Everyone laughs, but Supertech oil is made in the same brewery as Valvoline, I run it in my truck, the full synthetic 20,000-mile stuff. It's good oil. Over 300K on the Suburban and I trash it daily. The Vortec is still pulling strong. I wish the rest of the rig was in as good shape as the motor.
 

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Do you have a link to this?
Wow, you're making me boot up the time machine! So my memory was wrong, that particular thread from Addyguy was just shy of 21k and used Petro Canada conventional on his old school lead block Cavalier :p


There's lots of UOAs that show extended OCI's with equal, or often "better" "wear numbers", than short OCIs. The key is the math. Take the OCI the lab is using for their 'average' wear numbers, divide that into the extended OCI, then take that result and divide your "wear numbers" by that factor for PPM/Mile.

I don't consider any UOA as "better" than any another... because when we're talking PPM/Mile, the differences are almost always insignificant from oil to oil and may not reflect the actual impact to an engine. Hence why I would only ever do one on an engine known to have gasket/coolant, oil dilution, PCV or air intake issues for tracking purposes.
 

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As I have also been saying on this thread, throwing away good oil because you reach an arbitrary mileage number is okay if that’s what you want to do. A few oil samples analyzed will tell you a lot. I’m using Super Tech synthetic in my car and it tests just fine when the car’s oil monitor says it’s shot.


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Lousy shifting after 1st oil change

Took my 2007 1000 into the dealer's shop for the 600 mile once over that Suzuki recommends. Shifting was smooooth with the break-in oil in the belly.
I asked the service rep about having them use synthetic since they were changing the oil then anyway. You would have thought I asked for mayo on my corned beef sandwich. No No No I was told. This will void your warranty and likely cause clutch damage. Sounded like BS to me but I let it slide. They used 10-40 Suzuki oil and it ain't been the same since. Shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th is now an adventure. Don't know if they will be there on the first try or not. It sometimes takes a couple tries. Also, dropping into 1st from neutral clunks hard. Shifts better in the heat of the afternoon than on cool mornings.
We already had a couple of days over 100 deg here in Sacramento. I've kept up with these oil threads and hear you guys raving about synth. Does it really make that much difference in the gearbox? Ive never used it. Always had old beater bikes not worth the extra cost.
My new 2013 DL650 did not shift as well as I thought it should, change to 10w-50w Castrol oil and the transmission shifted like I expected it should.
I live in Houston and have 100 degree weather to.
 
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