[baroquenride]

I use baby oil, made with real babies.

Sent from my Etch A Sketch

 

[oldjeep]

Rotella is an inferior motorcycle oil. Oil makes no difference? Are you spending money on leather fringe and chrome.

Well that inferior motor oil is the choice of most 200k mile yamahas . Seems fine. I also use whatever bulk oil the local oil change place uses in my truck. Again, seems fine.

 

[STCorndog]

Well that inferior motor oil is the choice of most 200k mile yamahas . Seems fine

Not my Yamaha, nor Suzuki, nor Hondas, nor Toyotas, not in my diesel Tractor either........here is my last Toyota Tacoma......

Sorry, I am a 100% Mobil 1 user since 1986. I doubt you will convince me to switch. The speedometer was photographed 2 years ago. My buddy made a woods truck out of it and its still running. I don't rely on anecdotal evidence from others.

YMMV...yada yada

Save money how ever you want. I buy the best oil, coolants, brake fluids, filters......well I think you can see my point. I save money by running my stuff forever.

 

[baroquenride]

I don't rely on anecdotal evidence from others.

I hope you're not trying to convince anyone with your anecdotal evidence.

 

[Big B]

I'll do some oil analysis with my Motul 300V......all I know is the engine and tranny sure seems to like it. It honestly wasn't much more than Mobil 1 4T, plus I got it delivered right to my door.

 

[oldjeep]

Toyota truck engines will also get 400K if you run them on bacon grease, that is why they are the truck of choice in 3rd world countries The trick is having any body panels left at that mileage.

I'm not trying to convince you to switch oils, but if I am having no issues with Rotella then I am not switching either.

 

[AZ-Stromer]

I'll do some oil analysis with my Motul 300V...

Post the results of the analyses?

 

[DaveinNC]

I've seen some UOA's on Motul that weren't so great.

But I also got 180,000 miles out of a Twin cam running whatever was on sale, and sometimes a mix of crap. No oil-related issues ever, only a stator and cam chan tensioner pads.

 

[Big B]

I've seen some UOA's on Motul that weren't so great.

But I also got 180,000 miles out of a Twin cam running whatever was on sale, and sometimes a mix of crap. No oil-related issues ever, only a stator and cam chan tensioner pads.

Not ever heard of bad UOA's with Motul, but I'm just doing it for curiosity more than anything else. I'll never run Rotella again, but would go back to Mobil 1 4T in a heartbeat.

 

[DaveinNC]

Not ever heard of bad UOA's with Motul, but I'm just doing it for curiosity more than anything else. I'll never run Rotella again, but would go back to Mobil 1 4T in a heartbeat.

I change mine regularly, probably much sooner than needed but I do it for shift quality. Some bikes are sensitive to oil viscosity and shifting. I run a mix of M1 Cycle oil now, I was gonna give the 15-50 car oil a shot and see how it does. My bike calls for 10w30 all year but that gives me the willies. The only 10w30 I would run is the Valvoline VR1 but it's not clutch friendly. I'm trying not to overthink this and just keep the oil clean, but around here finding the same type of oil in the same store at different times is a crapshoot. One thing I can get here is Advance Ultra 10/40 or 15/50, I may try that.

 

[STCorndog]

I hope you're not trying to convince anyone with your anecdotal evidence.

Touche'.....LOL

I do rely on my own anecdotal evidence since it is first hand not third.

Shall we discuss my disdain for Fram oil filters and K&N air filters. ....

 

[Big B]

FRAM is probably perfectly fine, but tend to agree about the K&N comment. Hiflo or OEM for me, just doesn't make sense to go with a K&N for something that gets checked/replaced not so often for most owners.

 

[oldjeep]

I use mainly Wix since they are cheap and easy to come by. My fz1 came with a few fram so I used them up first.

 

[Stromation]

I'll do some oil analysis with my Motul 300V......all I know is the engine and tranny sure seems to like it. It honestly wasn't much more than Mobil 1 4T, plus I got it delivered right to my door.

Post the results of the analyses?

Also interested in the results

I've been running 300V on both bikes for a couple years. The only exception I've encountered in my research of this oil is that it should not be mistaken for a traditional synthetic (an oxymoron is there ever was one): as it is formulated for endurance racing, it tends to break down more quickly than the aforementioned traditional synthetic. While I might press my luck and push a Mobile synthetic product (for example) up around 5k mi between oil changes, I never let the 300V stay longer than 4k mi ... or less. Worth the extra price IMHO

 

[cenksinan]

my experience is rotella dino break down faster and shifting gets notchier after about 1500-2000 miles.with castrol actevo semi-syn it usually starts getting notchy after 3000-3500 miles.

 

[DaveinNC]

Is anyone here aware of any modern clutch issues using an energy-conserving oil with friction modifiers? I know what they say will happen, but what actually does happen?

 

[Webfors]

Is anyone here aware of any modern clutch issues using an energy-conserving oil with friction modifiers? I know what they say will happen, but what actually does happen?

You'll always find that one guy on the internet that used automotive oil in his bike for 10 years and "never had an issue".

I don't think it's a wear issue. The issue is, with a bike that has enough torque, you'll get clutch slippage.

That's all I know, and it ain't much.

 

[slovcan]

Is anyone here aware of any modern clutch issues using an energy-conserving oil with friction modifiers? I know what they say will happen, but what actually does happen?

I put Mobil1 car oil in my V65 Sabre in a previous life. The clutch did start slipping in short order in the higher gears (maybe in a few days?). I did a couple of quick oil changes with dino oil and saved it. If I had waited longer to do the extra changes I doubt I could have saved it. This was a modern clutch even though it was 1984 in that it was a slipper clutch.

It has since been said that kevlar clutch fibre discs are not affected by the car energy conserving oil, but I have never had kevlar fibres.

Cheers,
Glenn

 

[STCorndog]

I use mainly Wix since they are cheap and easy to come by. My fz1 came with a few fram so I used them up first.

I am sensing a trend here. I like to think I spend my money wisely.

I have quit lighting cigars with a $20 bill and started using $1 bills now.

So, inquiring minds want to know, what type tires do you use.....

 

[oldjeep]

I am sensing a trend here. I like to think I spend my money wisely.

I have quit lighting cigars with a $20 bill and started using $1 bills now.

So, inquiring minds want to know, what type tires do you use.....

Depends on the bike. The FZ1 currently has Conti Road Attack 3 on it. The Vstrom had Conti Trail Attack 3 front and rear and a spare rear rim with a Riken Raptor on it. The new FJR - not sure what it has on it yet, but they will likely need to be replaced due to age. It has both a darkside rear and a conventional rear. The darkside rear will get the Riken that I took off the Vstrom, the conventional - not sure yet.

Thing is that if I have no issues with the low cost options, there is no reason to spend more money. My cars and trucks get the minimum requirements in oil/filters unless there is a real reason to use something else. In the case of the Yamahas, the various oil threads for the FZ1/FJR have a preponderance of people using Rotella. Never had an oil or filter related issue in any of our cars, trucks, motorcycles, snowmobiles, boats, power equipment.