Well that inferior motor oil is the choice of most 200k mile yamahas . Seems fine. I also use whatever bulk oil the local oil change place uses in my truck. Again, seems fine.Rotella is an inferior motorcycle oil. Oil makes no difference? Are you spending money on leather fringe and chrome.
Not my Yamaha, nor Suzuki, nor Hondas, nor Toyotas, not in my diesel Tractor either........here is my last Toyota Tacoma......Well that inferior motor oil is the choice of most 200k mile yamahas . Seems fine
Not ever heard of bad UOA's with Motul, but I'm just doing it for curiosity more than anything else. I'll never run Rotella again, but would go back to Mobil 1 4T in a heartbeat.I've seen some UOA's on Motul that weren't so great.
But I also got 180,000 miles out of a Twin cam running whatever was on sale, and sometimes a mix of crap. No oil-related issues ever, only a stator and cam chan tensioner pads.
I change mine regularly, probably much sooner than needed but I do it for shift quality. Some bikes are sensitive to oil viscosity and shifting. I run a mix of M1 Cycle oil now, I was gonna give the 15-50 car oil a shot and see how it does. My bike calls for 10w30 all year but that gives me the willies. The only 10w30 I would run is the Valvoline VR1 but it's not clutch friendly. I'm trying not to overthink this and just keep the oil clean, but around here finding the same type of oil in the same store at different times is a crapshoot. One thing I can get here is Advance Ultra 10/40 or 15/50, I may try that.Not ever heard of bad UOA's with Motul, but I'm just doing it for curiosity more than anything else. I'll never run Rotella again, but would go back to Mobil 1 4T in a heartbeat.
I'll do some oil analysis with my Motul 300V......all I know is the engine and tranny sure seems to like it. It honestly wasn't much more than Mobil 1 4T, plus I got it delivered right to my door.
Also interested in the resultsPost the results of the analyses?
You'll always find that one guy on the internet that used automotive oil in his bike for 10 years and "never had an issue".Is anyone here aware of any modern clutch issues using an energy-conserving oil with friction modifiers? I know what they say will happen, but what actually does happen?
I put Mobil1 car oil in my V65 Sabre in a previous life. The clutch did start slipping in short order in the higher gears (maybe in a few days?). I did a couple of quick oil changes with dino oil and saved it. If I had waited longer to do the extra changes I doubt I could have saved it. This was a modern clutch even though it was 1984 in that it was a slipper clutch.Is anyone here aware of any modern clutch issues using an energy-conserving oil with friction modifiers? I know what they say will happen, but what actually does happen?
I am sensing a trend here. I like to think I spend my money wisely.I use mainly Wix since they are cheap and easy to come by. My fz1 came with a few fram so I used them up first.
Depends on the bike. The FZ1 currently has Conti Road Attack 3 on it. The Vstrom had Conti Trail Attack 3 front and rear and a spare rear rim with a Riken Raptor on it. The new FJR - not sure what it has on it yet, but they will likely need to be replaced due to age. It has both a darkside rear and a conventional rear. The darkside rear will get the Riken that I took off the Vstrom, the conventional - not sure yet.I am sensing a trend here. I like to think I spend my money wisely.
I have quit lighting cigars with a $20 bill and started using $1 bills now.
So, inquiring minds want to know, what type tires do you use.....