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Discussion Starter #1
Lately, I've been a bit concerned about the stock temperature indicators(fat bars) whcih don't provideas specific of a temp readout that I would like. I did a quick internet search for a motorcycle kit and found one on an ATV forum site that was offered by one the DIY type guys but it was date from '06 and he was offering only 70 units. It was a unit that had a hard anodized aluminum tee that installed on the coolant return line from the engine. The sensor was mounted in the tee and used an analog readout gauge that you mount wherever you want. Installing the tee only involved cutting a short section of hose and insterting the tee, splicing into a hot-when -on source(with relay), and you're done. Any vendors here make such a kit?
 

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The only problem with reading the actual temp is that it may be frightening. The Wee's seem to be happy with 2-3 bars and a lot of folks get real serious about it. One doesn't read about too many high temp readings. I'd be concerned if the bike started to read in the upper range.
On the old Air Cooled BMW's everything would be fine until someone got a dip stick temp gauge and then find out how hot the oil really was. Actually even though it was seemingly hot enough to boil lead the oil and the engine design were adequate to deal with it.
I like the idea though. But even the gauge in my 4Runner is a sliding needle.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The DL1000's fan turns on at approximately 105 degrees C and turns off at about 100 degrees C. Three bars show on the gauge from 100C to 111C.

On the DL650 the fan turns on at ~98C and off at ~92C and shows three bars from 80C to 111C. That's why it is normal for the DL1000 to show two bars but go to three on hot days at slow speeds while the DL650 shows three bars but goes to two at speed on cold days or cool rainy days.

I don't know what you intend to do with more information than that.
 

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temp

its not the absolute temp that matters - its the change from normal

watch your bars and get a feeling for its "normal" behavior.

then when a bar goes towards the roof - you will know something is amiss.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I really doubt you'll notice a difference if a 4th bar pops up. If it happens though. something is wrong. It usually means the fan isn't working, coolant has been lost, the thermostat is stuck or the sensor is malfunctioning.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The DL1000's fan turns on at approximately 105 degrees C and turns off at about 100 degrees C. Three bars show on the gauge from 100C to 111C.

On the DL650 the fan turns on at ~98C and off at ~92C and shows three bars from 80C to 111C. That's why it is normal for the DL1000 to show two bars but go to three on hot days at slow speeds while the DL650 shows three bars but goes to two at speed on cold days or cool rainy days.

I don't know what you intend to do with more information than that.
From what you've described Pat, it appears that my temp bars are working accurately. However, being the persnickety sort that I be, having a read-only analog gauge appeals to me as a way to see the actual temp....and see how the temp varies. I monitor my gauges closely...along with my mirrors.
 

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However, being the persnickety sort that I be, having a read-only analog gauge appeals to me as a way to see the actual temp....and see how the temp varies. I monitor my gauges closely...along with my mirrors.
Have you a voltage meter? Although not as life threatening to the bike as temperature, low voltage can leave you stranded.
 

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I would think that oil temperature would be a better indication as the Wee's oil cooler is air cooled with no method of controlling it from a hot or cold climate. Too cold oil is as bad for an engine as too hot oil from what I remember from my days as a lad tuning the original & proper mini's in England. There used to be thermostatic kits you could buy then to keep the oil at proper running temps. I have often wondered if a water cooled oil cooler could be retro fitted to a Wee as the Glee has now, definitely the best way.
 

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We have a lot of 100 degree days in summer down here, I have seen 4
bars a few times waiting at Border Patrol check points, goes back to 2 bars
as soon as moving again. I would be more worred about modification
to install sensor & causing a leak.
 

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Some things I have noted with the temp bars on my 2010 DL650A.

The bike warms up to give 3 bars then the thermostat opens fully & it drops to 2 bars for a short while (depends on ambient temp how long it takes to get back to 3 the colder it is longer it takes) Then once 3 bars are up mine stays there in all conditions so far (I have riden it from 25F to over 100F) and it has never waivered from 3 bars once it has warmed up fully.
 

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The only problem with reading the actual temp ....
There's another problem. It is likely better for the engine if you're looking down the road instead of down at the instruments for too long and crash.

Really, two or three bars is fine. The oil temperature is OK if the cooler is clean. Use xW-50 oil when you expect the weather to be mainly over 90 or 100°F. Yes, cold oil is a problem. 10W-x oil is OK down to -4°F according to Suzuki-san.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I would think that oil temperature would be a better indication as the Wee's oil cooler is air cooled with no method of controlling it from a hot or cold climate. Too cold oil is as bad for an engine as too hot oil from what I remember from my days as a lad tuning the original & proper mini's in England. There used to be thermostatic kits you could buy then to keep the oil at proper running temps. I have often wondered if a water cooled oil cooler could be retro fitted to a Wee as the Glee has now, definitely the best way.

Yes, an analog oil temp gauge along with an analog coolant temp gauage appeals to me(ditto for the voltage meter). I've located a vendor that offer exactly what I'm looking for and they even have a kit for my Wee as the owner has the same bike. It comes with a fitting/sensor that installs where you would normally install the factory oil pressure test tool. I have the choice of either an analog needle gauge or an LED unit(which is much thinner). I can order the analog unit with my choice of dial face and backlight colors. I'll go with the analog units in the next 2 or 3 months since it's still cool out. In the meantime, I've intalled 2 temperature strips just for giggles. One is stuck to the left side engine case low as possible which pretty much indicates oil heat sinking and the other to the cylinder wall. Comparison shows that both indicate a range of 160-171F. I just use these strip as a reference and to satisfy my curiosity.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Some things I have noted with the temp bars on my 2010 DL650A.

The bike warms up to give 3 bars then the thermostat opens fully & it drops to 2 bars for a short while (depends on ambient temp how long it takes to get back to 3 the colder it is longer it takes) Then once 3 bars are up mine stays there in all conditions so far (I have riden it from 25F to over 100F) and it has never waivered from 3 bars once it has warmed up fully.

It's this variance that piqued my curious nature. Today, I rode for about 60 miles with the ambient temp of 58-62 and noticed that my temp bars went from 3 to 2 as I cruised the backroads at 50 to 60mph at a leisurely pace in 6th. When I've ridden at temps in the 40's, the gauge would go to 2 bars and stay there while cruising and only hit 3 bars while at a stoplight or in slow in-town traffic. I'm simply trying to obtain a more accurate and detailed temp monitoring method. Why I'm catching flack for that is beyond me.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
About 16 years ago, I was in a relationship with a lady who drove a V6 Mustang. One afternoon, she called me to ask if I knew of a good engine rebuild shop. She kept driving her car AFTER the red TEMP warning light came on and seized the engine. Her answer for why she kept driving after the warning light came on was classic...."because it was still running". The water pump failed and leaked coolant out which caused the overheating....PLUS...ignoring the idiot light. Manufacturers are constantly trying to engineer safe gaurds to protect us from destroying our engines and yet it still happens. How many people do you see keep driving even though the 'check engine' light is on? Yeah, some can't afford to get it fixed, but most people ignore it because the engine still runs and they can't detect anything amiss.
 

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While I think the V-Strom temperature bars do not provide actual temperature, they do let you know when the engine is too hot.

That been said - You could build the Stromputer and easily add an external temperature sensor that would be positioned near/on the engine block.
 
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