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Discussion Starter #1
I have an auxiliary lighting kit and the harness allows to tap into the headlight circuit so the lights will work with the high beam. Can someone please tell me where and how to tap into the high beam circuit on the V2? And pics would be a great help. Thanks.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Get yourself a blue Posi-Tap. Use it on the yellow wire going to the bottom light. The one in the pic is brown. I couldn't find a yellow wire pic.

 

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underneath the seat tap into the yellow w/ blue tracer wire coming out of the fuse box. that is the high beam wire. that is what i used for my lights.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Yellow/blue is the common headlight wire before the fuse. For high beam, use the all yellow wire.
 

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Yellow/blue is the common headlight wire before the fuse. For high beam, use the all yellow wire.
sorry i was wrong . i know you are the guru Greywolf. lol
forgot he wanted the high beam but the yellow blue energizes when i turn on the ignition which is what i thought when i looked at the wiring schematic. am i wrong?
 

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sorry i was wrong . i know you are the guru Greywolf. lol
forgot he wanted the high beam but the yellow blue energizes when i turn on the ignition which is what i thought when i looked at the wiring schematic. am i wrong?
It works for mine
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I took a second look at the wiring diagram. Depending on which Y/Bl wire you get, it is either hot all the time or only on low beam.
 

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I've got a Skene IQ-160 controller hooked to both the stock tail/brake light and a set of P3 LED's. I've got an auxiliary fuse block partially switched by the tail light circuit and later this week, I will have a set of LED aux driving lights controlled by a Skene IQ-275, which needs an input from the high beam.

I know I'm not typical but I've installed all of this without so much as a single tap or splice. Is there anything wrong with hacking into the stock harness? Not necessarily, but I'm not a fan of cutting into the harness or using taps, Posi or otherwise.

I've made intermediary harnesses for all of these. For the high beam, I'm waiting on this H9 housing and terminals to arrive. It's not a pigtail as pictured but an unassembled housing and terminals. I will make a very short intermediary harness along with a male H9 housing, which will connect between the harness and the headlight. This will give me the needed high beam switching lead without a tap or splice.

I can unplug and remove everything I've installed (for maintenance or otherwise) and the stock harness will be 100% unmolested.

Tipsy
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys for all the help and suggestions. So just to confirm I need to find the all yellow wire correct? This is for the high beam circuit?

Tipsy, would love to hear more about how you are tapping into the high beam circuit. Please post pics when you do it.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Yes, the high beam wire is all yellow with no stripes. Some wires have color bands like those in the picture that are not involved with the color code at all. Color codes involve the main body and stripe only. The bands aid in cutting wires to the correct lengths when the loom is first constructed.

Don't worry. Posi-Taps work fine and do no more to the stock wiring than to put a small hole in the insulation. A dab of liquid vinyl will totally reverse that if needed.

 

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Tipsy, would love to hear more about how you are tapping into the high beam circuit. Please post pics when you do it.
I'll post a photo when it's built.

Color codes involve the main body and stripe only. The bands aid in cutting wires to the correct lengths when the loom is first constructed.
Are you sure about that? I've not seen a proper Suzuki wiring diagram but in the BMW world, the dots on the wire insulation represent a tri-color wire. Seems to me if the dots were a reference for measuring, every wire would have them.

In the attached BMW diagram example, "GN/BL/GE" is Green/Blue/Yellow while "GN/GE" is Green/Yellow.

Tipsy

 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I'm sure. The rings are all the same color and never referred to on the wiring diagram. The first wiring search I ever did on a V-Strom was for the brown tail light wire and the taupe bands on it threw me for a while until I made sure they were not part of the color code.

 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The white wire to the horn is an ignition on hot wire. Let me add at this point that almost all the hot wires on the bike should not be given a heavy load. It's fine to use them to power a relay, then use the that to relay power from the battery or a fuse block connected to the battery to power any heavy load.
 

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Please elaborate. You already have an ignition switch and the white wire is off until the stock ignition switch is on. What are you adding?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes, the high beam wire is all yellow with no stripes. Some wires have color bands like those in the picture that are not involved with the color code at all. Color codes involve the main body and stripe only. The bands aid in cutting wires to the correct lengths when the loom is first constructed.

Don't worry. Posi-Taps work fine and do no more to the stock wiring than to put a small hole in the insulation. A dab of liquid vinyl will totally reverse that if needed.


Thanks again Greywolf. I'm guessing that photo is from underneath the black rubber splash shield just behind the gas tank? Also I am having trouble finding posi-tap connectors and will probably have to order on-line. Do you know what gauge wire the all yellow wire is? Thanks and sorry I need to ask so many questions, just don't want to screw anything up on my sweet ride.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The pic is of the rear of the radiator top shroud. I only used if to show the color bands. The best places to find a yellow wire are the headlight connection, a large connector in the left side of the fairing and at the fuse box.

Suzuki wiring is metric but it's probably the equivalent of around 16-18ga wire. A red or blue Posi-Tap should work fine. The size is not very critical.
 
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