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I want to clean the air filter which requires tank removal. What is the trick to removing the Fuel Feed Hose? I have squeezed the two pinch tabs and it seems to pull out slightly, but will not come off. I don't want to break anything.
 
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It can be a bit of a pain. The pinch tabs squeeze really HARD. I usually end up with a bloody finger trying to remove the fuel line, but after a couple times you get the hang of it.
 
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Motornoggin:

That's what it took. Mission accomplished. I am glad I had a rag underneith as a some gas dribbled out once I got it off.

Lots of bugs and stuff lodged in the air filter. Used an air compressor to clean it out. Glad I did it. Probably should not have waited until 6K miles to do it.

Only issue on re-installing the tank is I went over the plastic on the top area instead of under it. Some minor scrathing. Will know better next time.

Thanks for your help,
 

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Make sure to snap the connector back together properly.
I thought I did. I went to start it after a 8 mile ride and got a
flood of gas all over the engine.
Could have been worse, I could have been heading down the highway.
That would have been interesting.
 
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ryan said:
Need to change my air filter. Have not done it before. Followed the instuctions in the little hand book. The tank only lifts up a few inches. How much of the plastic needs to come off to access the air filter?
I usually have most of the plastic off anyway when I do long term maintanance, but it takes a bit of fanegling to get the tank off and on with the plastic still attatched, make sure it is all fairly loose so you have some wiggle room.
 

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Hi all, as a personal observation, I tried to leave the plastics on the first time I lifted the tank. It was such a pain in the rear, that I remove the plastics each time, and the more times I do it, the quicker i get, because you remember the little screws in the front air vents!, and what screws fit in what holes when you re-assemble. just my two bob's worth.

Ride safe Doebag
 

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Does the head light or Guage assy need to be removed. Since I have not seen it done befor, dont know what piece is attached or removable from another. Will I be able to access the spark plugs when I get to the air filter?

When I shipped the bike, the tank needed to be empty. I removed the fuel hose to drain it. It came off real easy. I smell a little gas. Think I may have re attached it wrong. Looked straight forward. Is there a trick?
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Don't need to pull the guage cluster or anything associated. Pull the black trim pieces, remove the screws holding the side plastic and loosen the screws up front hiden in the "grills". The side plastics should then be loose enough to allow removal of the tank.

The front plug is accessable without removing any plastic, but the radiator can be in the way, take a look and see. The rear plug is accessable when the tank is removed. They are under a rubber plug/seal wuth the ignition wire running through the center.
 

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Fuel line disconnect

My solution to disconnecting the fuel line was to install a Motion-Pro plastic quick disconnect, black rubber auto fuel line w/ fuel line hose clamps. Disconnect the stock fuel line from tank & t body & CAREFULLY cut the OEM line completely off so your left with just the 2 plastic ends, add your fuel & quick-disconnect (fine for high press fuel lines). The only sticking point is replacing the o-ring on the M.P. quick-disconnect required a few trips & trial & error to get the right size o-ring as a back up replacement. Buy extra o-rings especially if you pull the tank often because the o-rings don't last very long w/ repeated use. Otherwise I've had 0 problems.

R.D.
 

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Fuel line disconnect

Also, Triumphs I understand come with plastic fuel line quick disconnects as standard equipment. ALL fuel injected bikes should come with these things.
R.D.
 

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There's a company called Colder Products that makes most of the fuel line quick disconnects on the market including those used by some of the motorcycle manufacturing companies. There may not be a problem now but just a year or two ago, there were many quick disconnect problems. Leaks on some new bikes were common. I understand Colder went back to the drawing board for a solution but I was not able to get any insider updates after that point. Any Stromtroopers out there know if they fixed the problem? I believe it was a matter of some common fuel additives softening the o-rings, resulting in leakage.
 

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Be careful when reattaching the fuel line to the tank. I just did the 7,500 mile service last weekend (which includes pulling the tank). When I reattached the fuel line I know I checked to make sure it was secure like 10 times. This week I rode 500 miles and my way home Friday I was on the highway entrance ramp when the bike died and would not restart. When I finally stopped, there was a strong smell of gasoline and I quickly notice a large pool of gas below the bike. I immediately suspected the fuel line connection so I pulled the seat and saw the fuel line just hanging there. Without any tools to access the area I though I was stranded. Luckily after thinking about alternate ways to access the line I realized that I was able to pull the black plastic trip piece back and rotate it out of the way. With the trim moved I was able to get my fingers in there and reattach the line. Lucky since I had left work early it was still light out and I was able to see the problem. I can only imagine trying to fix that problem in the dark during a Washington DC rush hour.
 
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Re: Fuel line disconnect

RDTigereys said:
My solution to disconnecting the fuel line was to install a Motion-Pro plastic quick disconnect, black rubber auto fuel line w/ fuel line hose clamps. R.D.
This is precisely what I plan to do as soon as it's time to replace the fuel filter. A standard mod on Beemers is to replace the internal fuel filter with an external one, including installation of quick-disconnects. The fuel filter for a Strom is ~$170! - an auto external FI filter is around $10. The trick will be to mod the internal filter to bypass the element. If anyone is replacing their filter soon, don't discard it. I'll pay to have it shipped to me for a bit of exploratory surgery.
 

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Re: Fuel line disconnect

RDTigereys said:
A standard mod on Beemers is to replace the internal fuel filter with an external one, including installation of quick-disconnects.
Ever see what happens when a fuel filter splits? Gas pouring onto a hot motor/exhaust is not my idea of a mod improvement. Also, the qd's just add another fail point. Do a search for "fuel leaks" over at advrider.com and you might decide not to add more of them. My $.02
 

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I had the same problem with the tank when I installed a K&N. I also caution you to be careful when reinstallilng the fuel line as I had the same experience with washing the engine with gasoline.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Re: Fuel line disconnect

RubberDown said:
RDTigereys said:
A standard mod on Beemers is to replace the internal fuel filter with an external one, including installation of quick-disconnects.
Ever see what happens when a fuel filter splits? Also, the qd's just add another fail point.
Both valid points. I still intend to try it. Here's Rob Lentini's original article:
http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/extern_fuel_filter.shtml
Here's some relevant commentary from a Beemer Board:
http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/313420/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Although filter failure is certainly possible, I believe it's very rare with good quality parts, as millions of FI equipped cars demonstrate. I intend to replace the OEM tank connector with a hose and clamp, placing the QD downstream from the tank and thus, not creating an extra point of failure. If I'm stranded at the side of the road (or on fire), I'll give you full credit for the caution - otherwise I guess I'll be about $150 richer than those who buy the OEM..
 
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