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Discussion Starter #1
Ready, Set, Rant!!!

I just installed the Motech Skid Plate.. While a great looking and solid piece of farkle, it took me....

4 hours to install

Yep! 4 hours. The reasons?

The two bolts on the kickstand were so incredibly difficult to loosen (I don't have access to air tools) that I literally spent hours trying to loosen it. After many whacks of a hammer on my ratchet, both bolts eventually loosened.

Damn you, Suzuki!!!! :furious: The color of the locking stuff they used does not exist in nature and just shouldn't be used.. Gah.

Then, after removing the bolt on the right side of the bike, the brackets fell out of alignment somehow. I ended up having to jam an electrical probe in the hole and forcing it back into alignment. That took another 15 minutes or so (had to figure out how to get it - loosened a couple of exhaust brackets, thinking that would loosen everything - nope (reminder - retighten one bracket))

Eventually, I got all the screws in, only to realize that I failed to put LocTite on them (I'm a stickler for that stuff).. So, there go the removal of the bolts again, which took another 15 minutes (that's my fault, though).

I've installed many things on many motorcycles and I swear to God, I never needed a beer. Looks like the streak has been broken, my friends... The streak has been broken...

Rant over. Move along.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Heat! That's how to get those things off. It will defeat the thread locker.
 

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Lots of threads on here about applying heat - makes it a 10 minute job to remove those 2 bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Heat! That's how to get those things off. It will defeat the thread locker.

Now you tell me!!!! Damn you both!!!! :cryin:
:green_lol:

Okay, so all kidding aside.. Would a simple heat gun work for stuff like that or something a little more advanced?
 

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When I went to install my skid plate, I searched for tips on skid plate installation - Greywolf suggested using a soldering iron to heat the offending bolts.........I poured myself a beer, and sipped on it, while the bolts simmered......

Loosened up like buttah! And the beer got me thru the rest.
 

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Good timing! I've got the skid plate and crash bars coming next week.

I ran into the same issue removing the lowering links nuts. I went out and bought a 24" cheater bar and a small butane torch. They put up a little resistance at first but a little extra heat and they came right off. :hurray:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When I went to install my skid plate, I searched for tips on skid plate installation - Greywolf suggested using a soldering iron to heat the offending bolts.........I poured myself a beer, and sipped on it, while the bolts simmered......

Loosened up like buttah! And the beer got me thru the rest.
Hmm. I have a soldering iron.. Did you just put the tip on the head of the bolt and the heat was just absorbed by the rest of the bolt?
 

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I'm looking ahead to my own skid plate installation, wherein I'll get to do this as well.

I have never used an air hammer, nor have I ever had to heat a bolt to remove it. The toughest one I ever dealt with was my front sprocket nut, and a breaker bar took care of that. So ...

If it comes to it, which is the preferable method, assuming both are available: heat or air hammer? I'm guessing a shop would use an air hammer. However, I have no experience with either method, and don't want to ruin something by just diving in with it.

Cheers! -d
 

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I have installed several skid plates in the past, and this is my third Wee. I found a stone-easy way to do it! I took it to the dealer and had it installed. Cost me about $45.:mrgreen:

BTW, hello Hiram
 

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I did not use any heat, they were tight but I just worked them out in not much time at all. I work with hand tools every day though so that may make a difference...
 

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I just purchased and installed the SW-Motech crashbars and was getting ready to install the skid plate but the directions were so bad I decided to check things out here first. Glad I did. I don't h-ave 4 hours to waste in 90% humidity trying to wrestle with it.

Question: is a blowtorch OK to use to loosen the bolts, if used carefully?

Also, I have the SW-Motech centerstand. Do these bolts come into play?

Man, do SW-Motech's directions/graphics suck or what? !!!

pmk
 

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I dont know what Suzy use for thread lock but its severely strong stuff.I just used muscle and my foot:green_lol:.
Only seen one tighter nut/bolt on a motorcycle and thats the front sprocket nut on a KLR (never tried the heat trick on them,wonder if it would work ?)
Macca
 

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I installed SW-Motech crashbars and a skid plate. Did not have any issues. I used a 18" long 1/2" breaker bar and a socket.
 

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Well, installation was a PITA. Heating the kickstand bolts was key -- no way they would have come off otherwise, and I still had to hammer the socket wrench handle. Even installing the front was a pain since the bolts didn't want to take hold.

I presume that to change the oil filter, one needs to remove the front bolts. So, what happens to the oil coming out of the filter -- I presume it just drips down the skid plate? Sounds messy.

pmk
 

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You'll want to completely remove the skid plate in advance of changing the oil and filter. Otherwise, yes, you will have a mess to deal with.

The SW Motech directions are fine. Their style is to use a parts schematic-style graphic, with a supporting parts list and numbered instructions. Nothing wrong with that. Not all instructions include a graphic. My only complaint is that the print font of the accompanying instructions is a bit too small.
 

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You'll want to completely remove the skid plate in advance of changing the oil and filter. Otherwise, yes, you will have a mess to deal with.

QUOTE]

Get one of these for changing the oil with a skid plate, it makes the job much quicker and cleaner.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200489322_200489322?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Fuel%20Transfer%20%2B%20Lubrication-_-Funnels-_-21928&ci_sku=21928&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}
 
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