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Discussion Starter #1
Tried to search and couldnt find anything on this for the 17+. Looking to buy some crash bars and Givi and SW motech are the only options I am seeing. Anyone have experience with either and are the SW Motechs worth the extra cash?
 

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The search parameters should be 2014+, not just 2018+.

The SWs are garbage.

I, and at least two other forum members, have had them break from vibration near the exhaust header. The two halves bolt together there, and are prone to fracturing.



In my case, the bars were a month old with 3,000 miles on them and had never been down.

I had to have them rewelded while on a trip; surprisingly, they have held up now for 11,000 more miles... although I do expect the next weakest weld to break at some point. They are now welded together at that joint.



I have never used Givi so I cannot comment.

I wish Altrider would unass themselves and do crash bars for the 2014+, as they are well made and well designed. I emailed them recently to ask, and they have no plans in the works.

HT also has crash bars. When my SWs do fail again, I'll likely buy these (unless Altrider has some by then):

https://www.happy-trail.com/find-your-bike/suzuki/v-strom-1000-2014/protection/suzuki-vstrom-1000-engine-guard.html
 

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Really like my Givis. On the 1000 they added a small brace just in front of the fuel tank that makes them more solid than most. 15K and no vibration problems.
 

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I went down on the Bay Bridge in CA with a set of Givi bars a couple of years ago. Sideswiped in the rain. They held up....ok? They crunched in a bit, dented the tank and cracked the radiator. If I didn't have them on, there would have been a ton more damage. They're better than stock, but I hope they're not the best out there. I like how the Hepco-Becker's come up higher on the tank. Wish I could see them in person.

Sorry for the sideways pics, not sure how to flip em.
 

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I have the Givi's, i hit some diesel on a curve at about 45mph, did a nice smooooth hit on the right side, the bars did their job, the right side moved in about 1/2" now, not worth changing yet, but mostly happy with them, only paid $150 here in colombia, some kind of free trade with the EU, get stuff cheaper than from the US...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got them in and installed. Very easy job compared to the bar risers I put on as well. Luggage racks came in as well so I tossed those on!! Very productive day off, now only if it would get above the 40s!!
 

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I have the Givi's, , the right side moved in about 1/2" now, not worth changing yet,..
When I bent the Givi's on my 650 I was able to pull them back out with a good size ratchet strap by strapping the bike to a pole and winching with the ratchet off another pole.
 

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When I bent the Givi's on my 650 I was able to pull them back out with a good size ratchet strap by strapping the bike to a pole and winching with the ratchet off another pole.
Yes, there is that, if i noticed it a little more, and not worried about making it worse, i'd try it, i know i could do it, i have a lot of experience on trying to bend things back, metal tubes, not such a problem, crappy pot metal, or aluminum? tried to bend my front brake lever that got bent on the same crash, had it alllmmooost there, just a little more, the ball broke off, jabbed my hand the the other end, put a nice hole in my hand, hurt like hell,,, jajajajaja and i'm a mechanic,, i know better,,,it's that KLR owner in me that gets me every time,, :furious:
 

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I know OP got the Givis already but in case anyone else is looking - I just replaced my broken SW Motechs (see post above) with the Givis:

Old SW Motech





New Givi





The "new style" Givis use a different connector near the header that joins the two halves together; it is like the Altrider connector and is a lot more stout than the SW Motech design (old style Givis used a tab and bolt that hung down and weren't as tough):



The only negative to this that I can see is that the crossover is very close to the header (1") and you can't really get an allen driver in there to manipulate the 4mm allen head bolt on the clutch side. You could either replace it with a hex head bolt because a wrench will still fit in there, or you could cut down an allen key to squeeze in there (which is what I did).

Givis also have a secondary brace to the radiator mounts on each side, which I do not believe any other model has. This gives you 4 bracing points per side instead of 3. The engine through-bolt gets reused and, interestingly, threads directly into the throttle side crash bar (no nut).

Overall quality seems good, powdercoat was scraped off in a few spots but nothing terrible. I couldn't bring myself to get the HT ones because they just look so hideous so Givi was really the only other option (Hepco Becker makes a set, too, but they require two different sets for upper and lower coverage and are cost prohibitive, I think).
 

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Does no one consider the genuine Suzuki bars? I got them included in the adventure pack with bike and they seem decent. They brace across the front with one bar that connects on either end rather than bolting together in the middle.
 

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Does no one consider the genuine Suzuki bars? I got them included in the adventure pack with bike and they seem decent. They brace across the front with one bar that connects on either end rather than bolting together in the middle.
I can't speak to the 1000 because I really haven't seen a lot of info, but on the 2nd gen 650 the OEM bars (actually made by SW Motech) are known for failing from vibration by breaking at a weld.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I know OP got the Givis already but in case anyone else is looking - I just replaced my broken SW Motechs (see post above) with the Givis:

Old SW Motech





New Givi





The "new style" Givis use a different connector near the header that joins the two halves together; it is like the Altrider connector and is a lot more stout than the SW Motech design (old style Givis used a tab and bolt that hung down and weren't as tough):



The only negative to this that I can see is that the crossover is very close to the header (1") and you can't really get an allen driver in there to manipulate the 4mm allen head bolt on the clutch side. You could either replace it with a hex head bolt because a wrench will still fit in there, or you could cut down an allen key to squeeze in there (which is what I did).

Givis also have a secondary brace to the radiator mounts on each side, which I do not believe any other model has. This gives you 4 bracing points per side instead of 3. The engine through-bolt gets reused and, interestingly, threads directly into the throttle side crash bar (no nut).

Overall quality seems good, powdercoat was scraped off in a few spots but nothing terrible. I couldn't bring myself to get the HT ones because they just look so hideous so Givi was really the only other option (Hepco Becker makes a set, too, but they require two different sets for upper and lower coverage and are cost prohibitive, I think).
I'm still impressed with mine!
 

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New poster here. Have a 2018 XT in need of some crash bars. Does anyone know if the Givi crashbars work with the SW-Motech skid plate? The looks of the Givi skid plate just don't do it for me.
 

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Read some good feedback on Heed crash bars and engine guards,

https://heedshop.eu/en_US/c/DL-1000-V-Strom/104
I went to the Heedshop website and looked at the crash bars for the 2017 and up VStrom 1000 and they look really nice. If I did the pound to dollar conversion right, they look to coat around $330.00 shipped. Is there a link to any reviews of the Heedshop bars? I haven’t been able to find any.
 

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I went to the Heedshop website and looked at the crash bars for the 2017 and up VStrom 1000 and they look really nice. If I did the pound to dollar conversion right, they look to coat around $330.00 shipped. Is there a link to any reviews of the Heedshop bars? I haven’t been able to find any.
The prices look to be in Euros and not pounds so 205e shipped is more or less $220 USD. Not too shabby... If anyone has them please post some comments.
 
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