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Howdy,
How difficult is the SW-Motech Crash Bar install (on the 650)? Do you have to support the motor when removing the long motor-mount thingy?

Thanks,
Dave
 

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No, you don't need to support the motor, and installation is pretty straightforward. I have that crashbar and the entire install maybe took me 30 minutes, if that.
 

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I agree, it's pretty painless once you remove the hardware that Suzuki torqued to nine million foot-pounds.

I made one minor mistake - I put both bars on before I installed the piece that joins the bars in front of the engine (silver piece that says SWMotech on it). Oops. Had to take one bar off in order to add that piece - make sure you slide it onto the first bar before installing the second.

Tim
 

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Yes, easy install. If you own a torque wrench leave it in the tool box as the hardware that comes w/the bars is not the same grade as the OEM hardware which you will be replacing. I found this out the hard way when I sheared one of the bolts off while using the torque specs listed in the manual. :oops:
 
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Thanks for all of the help :) I bought the V-Strom and then proceeded to order lots of stuff for it. I am just waiting for the stuff to arrive then I will install it the second I get home.
 

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Yes, easy install. If you own a torque wrench leave it in the tool box as the hardware that comes w/the bars is not the same grade as the OEM hardware which you will be replacing. I found this out the hard way when I sheared one of the bolts off while using the torque specs listed in the manual. :oops:
Long-time lurker here, and I just picked up my V-Strom this past Friday.

I realize that this is an old post, but I'm hoping that someone will pick up on it and provide an answer.

I've got the SW-Motech crash bars and was searching the net for the torque specs when I stumbled upon this post.

I would hate to shear a bolt. Can anyone advise on the install of these crash bars...do I just apply blue Loc-Tite and get the bolts good and snug? Another user commented that the bolts do not have to be as tight as one might expect. It sounds to me like competent work, getting them good and tight, with the Loc-Tite might be sufficient?

Thank you in advance. Any comments are appreciated.
 

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There are two types of SW-Motech crash bars. One uses only the 8mm bolts. The other lsouses a large through bolt that goes from one side of the engine to the other. The large through bolt torque is 54lb-ft. The smaller 8mm bolts are 16.5lb-ft. There is an error in the DL650 manual that says the 8mm bolts need 25.5lb-ft. That spec is for 10mm bolts. Bolt sizes are always shank sizes, not head sizes.
 

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Long-time lurker here, and I just picked up my V-Strom this past Friday.

I realize that this is an old post, but I'm hoping that someone will pick up on it and provide an answer.

I've got the SW-Motech crash bars and was searching the net for the torque specs when I stumbled upon this post.

I would hate to shear a bolt. Can anyone advise on the install of these crash bars...do I just apply blue Loc-Tite and get the bolts good and snug? Another user commented that the bolts do not have to be as tight as one might expect. It sounds to me like competent work, getting them good and tight, with the Loc-Tite might be sufficient?

Thank you in advance. Any comments are appreciated.
The previous info (2006) about install is outdated as SW has changed the design (for the better IMHO) See this thread for some info. http://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom-modifications-performance/49904-diy-no-weld-belly-pan-2.html Page 2 shows a new SW and how simple it is to install.:thumbup:
 

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The previous info (2006) about install is outdated as SW has changed the design (for the better IMHO) See this thread for some info. http://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom-modifications-performance/49904-diy-no-weld-belly-pan-2.html Page 2 shows a new SW and how simple it is to install.:thumbup:
I hated to resurect a 5 year old thread, but I'd hate even more to mess up the install on my new white beauty.

As I've found in my days of lurking here, there is nothing that you guys don't know. Thank you for the advice.

Honest Bob, your info was especially helpful. I see from your photos that the main bolt running through the bike doesn't even need to come out. My instructions state that this bolt must be removed; perhaps I've got instructions to the old model.

It's too late for me to continue the project tonight, but hopefully I'll knock it out tomorrow evening after work. I'll post a few pics when it's complete.

Again, thank you.
 

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I hated to resurect a 5 year old thread, but I'd hate even more to mess up the install on my new white beauty.

As I've found in my days of lurking here, there is nothing that you guys don't know. Thank you for the advice.

Honest Bob, your info was especially helpful. I see from your photos that the main bolt running through the bike doesn't even need to come out. My instructions state that this bolt must be removed; perhaps I've got instructions to the old model.

It's too late for me to continue the project tonight, but hopefully I'll knock it out tomorrow evening after work. I'll post a few pics when it's complete.

Again, thank you.
I suppose there is a chance you have an first generation model.:confused: You will know right away when you hold it up to the bike.
 

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Thanks for looking around before asking.
Old one uses the through bolt.




New one doesn't use the through bolt..

 

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I suppose there is a chance you have an first generation model.:confused: You will know right away when you hold it up to the bike.
No, I actually went to the garage and checked my bars against the photos in the thread you referred me to. I've got the same bars, new generation, but apparently the wrong instructions. I'm really glad that I didn't pull that bolt!

I looked for a used bike, mainly because I haven't ridden in so long, thought I'd save some money, and wouldn't be so hesitant to customize it. Failing to find a used bike in the area I bought new. Now I'm anxious to dig in and make it my own, yet very cautious to do so. I guess this will change as I get more accustomed to working on it.
 

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Removing the through bolt would have no consequences as long as it is replaced. The brackets and adjuster hold up the engine.
 

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No, I actually went to the garage and checked my bars against the photos in the thread you referred me to. I've got the same bars, new generation, but apparently the wrong instructions. I'm really glad that I didn't pull that bolt!

I looked for a used bike, mainly because I haven't ridden in so long, thought I'd save some money, and wouldn't be so hesitant to customize it. Failing to find a used bike in the area I bought new. Now I'm anxious to dig in and make it my own, yet very cautious to do so. I guess this will change as I get more accustomed to working on it.
One would have to wonder how some of these businesses stay alive!:headbang:
I see your just a hop and a skip from one of our renowned forum members, Keith Faulkner. He lives in Sarasota. When I was down to Florida for a winter holiday he offered me the use of a motorcycle while I was there. :jawdrop:Hospitality like that, in my experience is rare. Jump on the Florida section and you will see him there often. I'm sure he is a wealth of knowledge for someone starting back into motorcycling.

If you don't have the instructions you can view them at http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/5192/. Just scroll down the page to the bottom and you will see a PDF. It is mostly in German, but the pictures are in English.
 

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One would have to wonder how some of these businesses stay alive!:headbang:
Well, at least they included instructions...they were wrong but there were instructions. I received another part this evening with no instructions, but it wasn't too hard to sort out.

The crash bars are on and I'm just waiting for a friend to come and support the bike while I install the skid plate, then I'll post a photo or two.

Whoever mentioned that the bolts supplied with the crash bars are softer certainly wasn't exaggerating. I could feel the allen recesses starting to round out before the torque wrench would break over. I'm hoping I can find some harder bolts to replace them with later.

Thanks again folks for your advice.
 

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Thread pitch on SW_MOTECH crash guard bolts?

I found quite a few threads citing issues with the SW-MOTECH bolts... after I stripped the allen socket on one during the installation. I was able to get it out with a screw extractor, and felt kind of lucky about that... but now I'm thinking that I'll feel better in replacing all of the bolts to remove any possibility of future problems. (I just *know* there will be a reason they have to come off at some point!)

So... can anyone confirm the thread pitch of the bolts? The 'manual' (ha!) lists them as M8 x 45 and M8 x 40, but with no thread pitch. (I would guess 1.25, but if I order online I'd better know beforehand. :) )

Thanks for any info-

Bob
 

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Put the Motech crashbars on my '11 Wee this weekend. Actually took over an hour because the of the huge difficulty getting the 4 bolts off on each side. Used vice grips on the allen wrench which was a mistake. Should have wacked the wrench multiple times with my large ball pin hammer instead. Using the vice grips though they finally came lose, but thought for sure the bolt heads were going to strip. Once the bolts were off, one side at a time, putting the bars on was a snap. Put on the highway pegs as well so I can fit in with the Harley guys. Well not really, just need a different riding position
every now and then for the tired butt.
 

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Suzuki started using thread locker on those bolts. Use heat before trying to remove.
 

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Suzuki started using thread locker on those bolts. Use heat before trying to remove.
I didn't have trouble removing the bolts on my 2011 Wee, just the problem with the soft metal of the SW-MOTECH bolts.

Also, one thing I would do if I'd known is slide the connecting bar for the second side into the coupler *before* inserting the bolts. I had the coupler slid onto the connecting bar on the first side, then when the second side was tightened up the connecting bars were not perfectly aligned. Getting the coupler onto both bars required a combination of hand strength and judicious application of my rubber mallet.

I think if the coupler were on both bars before installing the second side, there would be enough leverage to make this a non-issue.

Still hoping someone will know the thread pitch of the bolts... I did get the stripped one out and so can take it with me to a hardware store tomorrow, just impatient to get the repair completed. (For now, I put in a spare factory bolt from another installation, though I think it's a 40 rather than a 45.)

Thanks-

Bob
 
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