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SV Racing Lines + Rox Riser. Squishy Brakes

1851 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  PTRider
I replaced all three front brake lines with SV Racing Parts Galfer kit. They look great (RED!)

But my brakes are squishy. There is one line that loops over from the left caliper to the right caliper. If there is air already in the line that loops over from left to right, how can I get that air out of there?

I’m considering having to take this to a pro and that’s gonna be at least $100 in labor. I’d like to save a few bucks and bleed them myself but I don’t get what I’m doing wrong.

I hooked it all up and then pumped from the right caliper until I had “some” fluid. But I never seem to just get fluid. Many reservoirs later I’m still getting airy fluid. And it isn't like it's pouring out under vacuum. Is it the hose not sealing well? Is it an air leak somewhere? I don’t have any spots where I’m leaking fluid anywhere. I rode it today and yesterday and it stops ok, just not a firm resistance on the brake lever as I would expect. If I don't have the break lever adjusted all the way out, I'm not gonna stop!

Help!

Blair rocks, by the way! Parts were great. I even had extra washers. Nobody gives you extra of the likely to drop parts anymore. That's just above and beyond the call! Kudos!
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Try using a couple of screwdrivers to push the pads away from the discs. This pushes the pistons back into the calipers and forces fluid, and air, up into the master cylinder reservoir.

If that doesn't work, you need to let the air rise to the master cylinder and bleed the air from the banjo bolt, again and again and again and again....
 

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TK421,

The problem is ABS bike has a looooong route for the fluid to travel and there's lots bubble hiding places. For a dry system, it takes a long time.

Bleeding brake is a task involving 95% time and sweat and only 5 % expertise - i wouldnt take it to a dealer. Here is a copy and paste of my recent advice to a fellow Stromer and it worked perfectly for him so i know this procedure didnt just work on my own ABS bike.

""""
Dealer is likely to do what u have done.... and charge u an arm and a leg for it.

given u have change out the 2 lines going into the rear plumbing there is a probably a fair bit of air to the ABS HU

I had the same issue when i change the lines on my ABS strom - i went through almost 3 250ml bottles of brake fluid before there's some lever action.

Before going to the dealer, try this:

jack the front of bike up (under your bash plate), so that hopefully bubbles deep in the ABS HU pipes will "rise" up to the "brake distribution block" under the lower triple. leave it like that for overnight.

Next day, sligtly loosen the banjo bolts where the brake lines goes into the calipers and pump the brake lever - u should have both bubbles and fluid seeping out - just keep pumping and topping up the brake fluid- retighten once u see almost no bubbles seeping out; repeat with other caliper and 2 bolts around the brake distribution block, follow lastly by the bolt next to the brake MC. By doing this, u should at least get some lever action. This is going to be messy so have a lots of rags ready

clamp the front brake and leave for a few hours or overnight - after all these your brake should be firm enough. go out and induce at least 6 ABS activation (safely), then re-do the whole bleed - should be good then.

With the extra ABS plumbing, bleeding a dry system will always take a lot Looonger."""

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:jawdrop::jawdrop::jawdrop::jawdrop:

He took my advice to the extreme. ---- u dont need to do this !!!!


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh that was good for a laugh!

Thanks everyone. I was doing it right, just not enough. So I bled from the right caliper a BUNCH and then the MC bleeder. Then bungied the lever down for the night. This morning I burped the MC bleeder, un-bungied. Lever is almost TOO hard now! YAY! Better than stock!

Oh, and Blair did call me back last night to make sure all was well. Can't ask for better service!
 

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Just curious, did the SV racing kit come with the bleeder fitting for the master cylinder connection point?
Extra cost option.
 
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