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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finished the SV Racing brake upgrade on my K7 DL1000 last night. Here are a few impressions, observations, and tips:

1. The quality of the parts from SV Racing is excellent. The two machined pieces that make up the adapter are as good as anything I've seen from any other source. The bolts provided are hihg-quality stainless steel hex-heads. The only things that could make the kit better would be including a couple small "sample" size packets of LocTite and possibly a diagram showing the installation, although you can figure it out without one. Nitpicking, really.

2. You might want to ask for photos of the used calipers you're buying. The ones I bought were pretty beat up, so I had to spend a couple days cleaning and repainting them. That's assuming you care about appearances, of course.

3. I underestimated the cost of the project. In addition to the brackets and calipers themselves, remember you'll need a new set of pads, a tool to evacuate the brake lines (see below for what I used), and possibly a caliper paint kit. "All-in" I spent about $300 on this project.

4. The OEM hoses on the DL barely reached the new calipers. They do reach, but I'm concerned about how tight the fit is. For some reason the right-side is tighter than the left.

5. The upgrade makes the squishyness of the OEM lines pretty obvious. You may want to budget a set of S/S lines if you're going to do this. I'll probably put this on my list of projects after Bike Week.

6. I used 2 tools for bleeding, both from Horror Fright Tools. One is the Central Pneumatic bleed kit that hooks up to your compressor. That tool works really well for the "bulk" bleeding to get the old fluid out and the new fluid in. $25. To get the last tiny bubbles out, I used my Dad's techique of a hose on the bleeder submerged in a small container of fluid. Open the bleeder and slowly pump the fluid through. Close the bleeder only after the last bubbles have emerged. That step made the brake lever feel very firm. H/F sells a little bottle with connections and hose for only $5. Using this tool is much better than the technique of compressing the lever and opening the bleeder to let the fluid spray out. The cost of the bleeder tools can be amortized by replacing the clutch and rear brake fluids, so that's a plus.

7. Everybody probably knows this, but brake fluid is nasty; it eats paint alive. Have plenty of rags handy, put some under the master cylinder to keep any spills off the tank and side panels, and pile a few near the front wheel so you can wipe up spills when disconnecting and reconnecting the hoses. I had one rag soaked with detergent and water as well. I used an old cookie tray to drain the hoses into, but there's always going to be a little more slopping around. Nitrile gloves are also recommended.

8. Get a box-wrench for the bleed screws. The OEM screws are soft brass can easily round off with an open-end or 16-point wrench.

Braking impressions post-upgrade: there is no doubt the new calipers are a substantial improvement over the old, and the braking is getting even better as the pads "bed-in." The difference isn't that great at lower speeds, but braking down higher speeds is much better. There's a very progressive feel of control from first "bite" on. At low speeds around the neighborhood I can easily stop the bike with 1 finger.

Would I do it again, was it worth the money? Well...obviously nothing you can do to the VStrom's brakes will ever match the performance you can get from a modern Brembo monoblock on a Ducati. But there is more than enough improvement from just the calipers and pads to make the project worthwhile, and I think adding the S/S brake lines will seal the deal. When I'm able to buy the S/S lines and install them, I'll update this thread and let you know.

5,008 Posts
SV Racing Parts, 4 Piston Brake Caliper Upgrades

:thumbup: Hi good brother, well done write up,

there is no doubt that the this is the fastest and easiest way to bring your brakes up to standard, Each piece of the puzzle just makes the brakes perform that much better.

I will add in that if you have any DL650 from 2007 on you may want to source a used 2004 - 2006 DL650 Master Cylinder or any model year DL1000 Master Cylinder for the front brake. They have bigger bore and stroke,

Anyone interested in doing the 4 Piston Brake Caliper upgrade, I have Brake Caliper Adapter Brackets in stock ready to ship, and the correct superb Galfer HH Sintered Front Brake Pads for both the Nissin and the Tokico Calipers in stock and ready to ship,

You can Email me Directly anytime at [email protected] and I will help you out and get you looked after right away,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
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