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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

I'm Martin from Estonia and this will be my Vee diary in this forum.
On 28th of December 2017, I bought myself K2 DL1000 with 38k on the clock.

It is winter, the bike had no insurance or MOT. It was dirty but I forgive it because the bike wasn't actively advertised for the sale. Stumbled on it on FB post comment where one was looking a new bike.
Anyways, went to see the bike. Were able to walk around it, make 50m "test drive" (bike was in the city center) and listen to the engine. Allegedly it had been raised 3cm and had seat from 650. I'm 180cm and my heels were touching the ground. It had no center stand but side stand had welded wider base.
It had Heidenau K60 Scout MS tires with almost no wear, brake pads, rare spoke, and chain looked ok. Also, there were no clutch noises. It had Powerbronze windshield, 3 charger sockets, homemade heated grips, crash bars and Rental handlebar.
Based on sellers story it had all the oils and cost parts changed 200km ago. He told that bike was sprayed 2 years ago and it hasn't fallen or been in any accidents (checked, no records).

He sent me few pictures that evening:







The paintwork wasn't perfect but in few meters, it wasn't scraping the eye. The fairing around dash was cracked and rings around speedometer were missing. Under the fearing there were some electrical tape junks, open wires on the handlebar etc. But hey, it almost 16-year-old bike and not all the owners are that anal with their bikes as I am.

Later this night he sent me a video of the bike with working engine and lights.

We both wanted to make the exchange before the new year so I managed to make one hour window for this transaction on next workday. Made the deal with the owner, that he will bring it outside the town with his van, I will make a proper test drive and put it in the garage for winter if everything is ok.
Next day he called me that is should start moving and then was half an hour late himself. Told me that the heated grips were forgotten on and the battery was flat by the morning. He had to borrow a battery from another bike, drive the bike to the van and remove the battery again. When he arrived the battery was dead and off from the bike.

Seller story for the bike was "nice" and I had no time left so we pushed it to the garage and 5 min later the bike was in my name.

After work, I drove by the garage and connected the battery to the charger and started the bike. No lows. Realised later that the video he sent was made in daylight with Hi beams.

Didn't have more time at that moment and returned to the bike on weekend to check why no lows.

When I arrived at the garage, the first thing I accidentally noticed was the windshield moving 0.5cm to left and right. Started to look the cause of it.

The reason - almost all the plastics were broken or cracked. Some of them were zip-tied underneath. Only one plastic part was undamaged in the nose.







Some of those were painted on the bike without taking things apart because bolts were over twisted:



Underneath all that I found dented gas tank:



To remove all the plastics I had to remove the crash bars and found cracked motor mount:



Removed the tape from some of the connectors under the fearing and found not very reliable wire repairs:



The lose wires on handle bars were connected straight to the battery so under the load:



Removed all that junk:



200km driven spark plugs:



Air filter was full of dead bugs.

Few days later the person who sold this bike to the man I bought it write to me via the local forum and told, that the bike is originally from UK and odometer is in miles not in kilometers like we are used to (didn't even thought to check it).

Will fixate the numbers for myself:



Also that the bike was heavily corroded at that time and the buyer pointed out that the headlight is for left-hand traffic and I should check if he replaced it (it is not legal in Estonia to drive with it).

So I jump wired the low beam fuse stand next time when I had a chance with 12V and bulbs did light up drawing unwanted lines on the wall - UK light :furious:

Cleaned the engine a little and indeed, nasty corrosion was revealed.





Al the wire connectors behind the radiator were corroded too. Hopped that after the cleanup lows will come on but no luck.

Took apart right side handlebar switch and cleaned the connectors - nothing
Took apart left side dimmer switch. It was also corroded and had a loose connection.





Cleaned it and soldered the loose wire back to its place. Still nothing.

Then found a blown fuse. Replaced it and now when I turn the ignition on the left low lights up and right one only barely glows. When I turn on Hi's only left one will light up. Swapped the bulbs, the same story.
I have a lightning switch on the starter button housing and no matter which position it is (off/gauge/lows) lows light up now (so-so) when I turn the ignition on :confused:

At one point I lent endoscope from my friend to check the gas tank dent from inside. It was heavily rusted. The weld underneath the dent was rusted inside and outside.

Found a good deal on eBay and ordered the new unused tank. Received it on weekend:



Today received new headlight:



And it is exactly the same I have on the bike right now. Ordered some new fairings too and they used VIN for headlight too. They promised to me that they will order new one form factory and replace the one sent out to me.

Received EB relay kit and PC8 last week.

Oxford heated grips should be arriving soon.

There is a lot more to write but it has become a long post already so I call it a day.

Long story short - I made a hell of a deal, didn't I? 0:)

The bright side is that I didn't know anything about V-Stroms before and turning this journey I should get quite a familiar with this bike.

Current state:



Regards
Martin
 

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Well at least you took pictures, and are willing to do the work to make it better. Congrats on a bike that once it is done right, will be yours.....and you will know it inside and out.
Just a tip, you might as well replace the battery when you are ready to ride, with the lack of good work done on the bike before you...it is probably in need of a fresh one.
good luck! and keep updating with pictures.

I like the post
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the good words.

I actually have one good bike in the garage already:



Have had it for 5 years by now. It has served me right and I have invested a lot into it. I promised myself, that I'm not replacing the bike before I get others things sorted out (like finish building the house for my family etc).

I'm quite anal with my rides and TDM was looking 6-700€ investment turning the winter. Mainly cosmetic kind + new tires and some itsy-bitsy things. Money what I will never get back when I should sell it someday. Actually, that ship has sailed a long time ago.

Anyways, again and again, I found myself looking for something with similar riding position but with fuel injection etc. Something was pulling me forwards DL1000. There were only 2 <2008 DL's to sell in Estonia, both 180km away from me - I was little happy with it because I didn't want to buy one.

When I stumbled upon FB post comment, that there is one to sell in my hometown, I went to see it and were just hoping it was too high for me and I can forget all about it. Especially when I heard it was raised 3cm. But the heals touched the ground. Based on Motorcycle Ergonomics site it shouldn't be possible even with original hight.

I started to find excuses to buy it. Based on first look and seller fairy tale I started to tell myself that what there are only a few things to sort out and I don't have to spend a lot to it. Will tidy it up a little, drive a season and will see if this is a bike for me. Also convinced myself that the price gap between the TDM and Vee will be small if I don't have to spend that 6-700€ on TDM.

Reality is that this week I finished doing everything for the TDM I planned to do for the next season (except tires) and atm I don't know exactly how much hours and money I have spent on Vee :crying2:

Hope I can sell TDM in spring with good price and everything will sort out with Vee. That it will serve me right and I will fall in love with it to justify the actions I have made.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Keeping the bike outside town in my friend garage. Spend half day in there today.

First I fitted EB kit for a test. Both lanterns lighted up. Only thing is that I can not regulate lights form right side lightning switch. It can only control gauge bulbs. Lows will come on with ignition even if the lighting switch is disconnected.



Left it be at that point. Wanted to check the clutch. When I removed the clutch cover a few weeks ago I saw, that the top plate was fitted like all others so it has been disassembled before.
Took it apart. Hoped it was modified basket but it's not. It looked like new and didn't have any play.



So I believe it has been replaced with OEM parts. Put it back together and installed OEM gasket.



At one point I thought that I should clean the surface for the new gasket before clutch installation but I didn't. Regretted that decision very soon. Used plastic card, cloth, and paper towels to clean it and wasn't able to remove old gasket grease 100%. Hope it will hold.
Next time I will clean the surfaces before clutch installation and use brake cleaner(?) to remove the old grease.

When the cover was installed again it was time to start removing the engine.

Disconnected everything that is needed based on the manual. Only left the TBs on. I don't have tool for removing special nuts but didn't have to make one ether. The lowest point nut I managed to remove by hand and I didn't need the larger one because I unbolted the engine mounts from the frame. I probably have to make the tool if I should decide to remove the swingarm.

When everything was clear I removed the engine with load belt and jack.



As I mentioned in the first post the right engine mount is cracked. The right-hand nut didn't want to come loose. Played with it every way I know but in the end, it snapped.



Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it is the wrong type of bolt used to mount the bracket to the engine and it has corroded in?





I don't think the tail frame installed on it came with this bike from the factory. It is black, corroded and visible parts have been can sprayed without any prep work. Removed it too.



Also removed all the wiring and headlight. Wiring needs some care and headlight will be replaced anyways

This is today's end result.





I don't know if and what I will do with the frame. If I want to change the bike color I need to paint it black but I don't know if it is worth the effort.

Things I need to do next:
* Replace or weld the engine mount
* Clean the engine
* Remove the broken bolt
* Adjust the valve clearances
* Repair the wiring
* Check the stator magnets

I'm little bit worried about the last one. The cover and nuts are so corroded I'm afraid I can not put it (tightly) back together.
 

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Boy I hope you did not pay very much for this bike!!

Good luck. Seems to me you will make it much better than an average 15 year old bike. At least many parts should be available from the used market, at least her in NA there would be plenty supply on e-bay.
 

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Super scary posts here when you just wanted a bike to ride. Very admirable job of searching out all the problems though.
I was lucky and got a working salvage from iamsmiling in LA. All it seemed to need is was fork tubes. Paid more for the forks than I did for the bike.
The big consolation is that after you are done you could rent yourself out to other Strom owners as a competent wrench for side money.

Remind me to never buy a used bike in Estonia!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
At least many parts should be available from the used market, at least her in NA there would be plenty supply on e-bay.
Yeah, I saw it on eBay that you have tons of Vees for spares with good prices. We don't have any.
Like the motor mount what was cracked. You guys have it on sold from 3USD and up. If I order it I have to pay postage + taxes and it will be 60€ minimum.

So gave it to welder on Monday and today received it repaired.





Super scary posts here when you just wanted a bike to ride. Very admirable job of searching out all the problems though.
I was lucky and got a working salvage from iamsmiling in LA. All it seemed to need is was fork tubes. Paid more for the forks than I did for the bike.
The big consolation is that after you are done you could rent yourself out to other Strom owners as a competent wrench for side money.

Remind me to never buy a used bike in Estonia!
Yeah, it is not what I wanted but what you can do. Have learned a lot turning this journey already and have a lot to learn. There is something positive in every scenario in this life. And not all the bike owners/sellers are ***** like the one I stumbled on to.

Regards
Martin
 

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That weld repair is beautiful, man.
You are a most upbeat individual. I'da been talking to god impolitely.
Cheers.
 

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Yep, that's a very nice weld.

Here in the US, it would be VERY difficult to find someone willing and able to repair an aluminum part like that. And if they knew it was part of a motorcycle frame they probably would never touch it. We have too many people scared of lawyers over here.

Aftermarket crash bars always come with crappy weak bolts like that. I don't know why. Suzuki bolts aren't shiny. If you can find someone to do beautiful welding like that, I'm sure you can find a way to get that bolt out of the engine.

I can understand why you're determined to get the bike back on the road in spite of the seller's dishonesty. Don't let it beat you!
 

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That is some amazing aluminum repair work. Wow, I guess where there's a will, there's a way.

I have a buddy who welds & he says aluminum is a pain in the ass. He would probably admire that repair.

In the US, that bike would already be in a junkyard somewhere. Looks like it was crashed pretty hard, enough to break the engine mount. That would certainly total it here. Luckily not from personal experience, but from accounts I've read any frame damage tends to be the kiss of death for a bike.

Good on you for getting it back on the road!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep, that's a very nice weld.

Here in the US, it would be VERY difficult to find someone willing and able to repair an aluminum part like that. And if they knew it was part of a motorcycle frame they probably would never touch it. We have too many people scared of lawyers over here.

Aftermarket crash bars always come with crappy weak bolts like that. I don't know why. Suzuki bolts aren't shiny. If you can find someone to do beautiful welding like that, I'm sure you can find a way to get that bolt out of the engine.

I can understand why you're determined to get the bike back on the road in spite of the seller's dishonesty. Don't let it beat you!
Thanks for the kind words. Our wheels of justice are so slow and people usually don't have a time or money to spend on lawsuits. I believe that this kind of reinforced weld is stronger than original part was and I have nothing to worry about. If I wouldn't be satisfied with it I would have ordered new/used one from online.

Regarding the shine bolt. It's not related to the crash bars. Crash bars were mounted on top of the crack so I wasn't able to see it turning the purchase. Shine bolt was lower and its job is to connect the engine and motor mount. I don't know if the previous owner wanted to replace the mount or what but he has installed the wrong bolt there. Hopefully, I will get it out without spending too many manhours on it.

That is some amazing aluminum repair work. Wow, I guess where there's a will, there's a way.

In the US, that bike would already be in a junkyard somewhere. Looks like it was crashed pretty hard, enough to break the engine mount. That would certainly total it here. Luckily not from personal experience, but from accounts I've read any frame damage tends to be the kiss of death for a bike.
The frame itself and forks seem to be in good condition by the naked eye. I hope the weakest point gave up and didn't do more damage.

Martinest,

Admire your patience. Its clear, you got the skills. Just curious why you bothered opening clutch basket to begin with?
I don't have sills, I have stupid consistency :nerd:

My friend (who garage I use) has SV1000 with clutch basket issues. He had it off the bike and in repairs. After all the things I discovered on the bike + I don't know the real history of it I just wanted to see if it have any modifications done in the past. Wanted to be sure it serves me right on the road. If I had seen any troubling marks on the clutch I would have let the modifications done on mine too. It seemed to me that is replaced with OEM basket in past and I left it be atm.

That is the reason I will remove the rotor/stator cover too to make sure the magnets are in place and if any JB weld has been done to it. If not then I will do it.
 

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Smart. With first generation DL1000, it seems to be a case of not if but when the rotor magnets migrate.

I'd say stupid consistency is part of how one becomes skilled! That's how I've learned to work on both my car and Vstrom. Also a lot of help from nice people on forums like this one.
 

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The 2002-2003 DL1000 has slightly lower electrical output and the stator and rotor are sightly different. The stats are a little uncertain, but from what I can tell they're a bit less prone to failure than the 2004+ models.

Of course, they're still subject to the usual issues from Suzuki's crappy corroded connectors, and the regulator/rectifier isn't the most reliable.

I took a preventive peek on my bike at around 90,000 miles, and did the JB Weld thing to the magnets. The stator looked perfect and the magnets hadn't moved at all, and I've never had charging issues. Of course, I had also installed an updated regulator at around 50,000 miles, and I examined, cleaned, and protected all the connections when I got the bike with 45,000 miles.

Still, it can't hurt to look and slap on some epoxy just to make sure, as long as you don't damage anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, I hope the magnets are still intact and I can to preventive weld just in case.
I'm thinking of losing the left-hand switch 10 pins connector overall and solder the wires together. One less failure point and it is only 2 bolts to remove the wires with switch housing if needed. At the moment this connector isn't tight enough. When I moved wires it made EB relays switching on and off. Forcing it together made things stable. Replacement connector doesn't cost much but I cant see benefits of having it still in wire loom.
 

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Now THAT is what I call a long project bike......not my cup of tea but I admire the hell out of you.
 

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I'm thinking of losing the left-hand switch 10 pins connector overall and solder the wires together. One less failure point and it is only 2 bolts to remove the wires with switch housing if needed. At the moment this connector isn't tight enough. When I moved wires it made EB relays switching on and off. Forcing it together made things stable. Replacement connector doesn't cost much but I cant see benefits of having it still in wire loom.
Why don't you try a contact cleaner first. If that works just fill the connector with dielectric grease. And make sure the intermittent contact is really the connector and not a broken wire elsewhere in that wire loom.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I used contact cleaner 3 times already + last time I even used fine sandpaper to clean up the pins. Wire loom is off from bike to get inspection and needed repairs.
 
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