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Discussion Starter #1
I just picked up a 2014 Vstrom 650 with 6400 miles and the owner's manual states that the coolant is due because it is 4 years old. I'd like to be convinced out of changing it to save money, but started planning to do it during winter time with a brake fluid flush.

The 2015 owner's manual states to use one of these:



Does anyone know the part numbers for each one? I'd like to get the "Suzuki Long Life Coolant" if it's cheaper than the "Suzuki Super Long Life Coolant" if it's cheaper, since I can interval it with brake fluid.

Thanks!
Mike
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Since the radiator is best removed for valve clearance checks, I found that a good time to replace the coolant.
 

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I apologise this is not the exact answer to your question, but you may find it useful. I was in a similar boat, just bought a second hand 650 and couldn't be 100% sure when all the fluids were last done apart from oil. So I've just done the whole lot.

I used this: https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/blue-long-life-premix-coolant because it was available locally and was affordable. I got the premix so I couldn't screw it up. The bottle even states that it's compatible with the Suzuki branded product. It also says no Phosphate, Silicate or Borate which is what everyone says is important.

For $36AUD I got the super long life stuff and enough left over to do another flush and fill. Now I have peace of mind for less cost than an oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Since the radiator is best removed for valve clearance checks, I found that a good time to replace the coolant.
Would you suggest that I tackle the check now at 6k miles, 4 years old....or wait until 14k mileage hits?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I’d do it if you have the green stuff and wait if you have the blue stuff.
 

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Don't do a thing with the coolant at this point, unless (as I said in your chain cleaning thread) you want to bond with your bike. A flush is not necessary. Wait until you need to drain coolant to do something else, or it's convenient. And then just use an aluminum friendly coolant from your local automotive store.

Don't overthink this stuff.

(I haven't scrolled down, but I'm afraid I'm going to find an oil thread next.)
 

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For $36AUD I got the super long life stuff and enough left over to do another flush and fill. Now I have peace of mind for less cost than an oil change.
I hope that doesn't mean you just replaced your oil with that stuff!!!!:surprise:>:)
 
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I used regular automotive light green long life coolant on my first home change, three years ago. 2011 1st gen Wee. I believe it had the claims of aluminum friendly and such. I plan to change the coolant this Spring, along with brake fluid again and probably a valve check. The hoses are probably still Ok, but I'll think about replacing them as well.

Next coolant change, I'll use Aisin super long life pink. It's the same stuff as the super long life pink that Toyota has mandated for a while. It replaced the older darker red Toyota long life. Aisin is said to make it for Toyota. I have 2 Scions, so I already have it around. Zerex also makes an "Asian" red long life, but that should be the old spec red stuff. Toyota claims that the SLL pink is 10 year, 120k mile coolant. Yeah and the not so highly regarded Toyota WS ATF is good for the life of the vehicle. Still, I won't necessarily worry about changing it out in only 2 or 3 years. If you look around, you can get the Aisin pre diluted for about $23 a gal, shipped. Cheaper than Toyota branded and also Suzuki's $9-$10 quarts of super blue.
 

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I use the pre-mix Honda coolant, all I have ever used for years in my bikes. To the OP, your bike is literally still like new, the ONLY thing I would consider having done is a full brake fluid change......that's it beyond checking fasteners and chain tension.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I’d do it if you have the green stuff and wait if you have the blue stuff.
Don't do a thing with the coolant at this point, unless (as I said in your chain cleaning thread) you want to bond with your bike. A flush is not necessary. Wait until you need to drain coolant to do something else, or it's convenient. And then just use an aluminum friendly coolant from your local automotive store.

Don't overthink this stuff.

(I haven't scrolled down, but I'm afraid I'm going to find an oil thread next.)
I use the pre-mix Honda coolant, all I have ever used for years in my bikes. To the OP, your bike is literally still like new, the ONLY thing I would consider having done is a full brake fluid change......that's it beyond checking fasteners and chain tension.
Thanks guys, I am seeing blue and am going to wait.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

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I had the valves checked at 80K or so and a little of the green stuff in the radiator of my 04 Wee hit the floor.
I just refilled the radiator when the job was over with bottled water, about a half bottle.
Is there any kinds of indicator that your fluid is less than optional as in color changes?
Every 90K miles or so on my 4Runner the dealer changes the radiator fluid as part of the timing belt service.
In mild climates, should we worry on the Wee, Vee Stroms?
 

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The anti corrosion chemicals are mainly what need to be replaced as they diminish protection over time. Freeze protection is a small part of what the coolant does.
 

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To answer the original poster's stated question, here they are:

Suzuki Long Life Coolant 900A0-02000 $20.58/quart
Suzuki Ecstar Long Life Coolant 990A0-02E00-01Q $6.99/quart
 

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Should be, could be...but is it? You dont know until you know for certain. I'll question the Suzuki Service and Parts reps over this as I did last year at the Chicago Motorcycle Show this upcoming weekend. And even at that, I'll just have to trust them to be honest in their answers.
 

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Resurrecting an older thread here because I'm at the point of changing my coolant as well, and hate that Suzuki doesn't make it easy to come up with a direct non-OEM match for the super long life coolant. I found from the Safety Data Sheet that the Suzuki stuff is actually manufactured by CCI, and from there I went to CCI's site and looked at the blue super long life mix for Subaru/Honda/Nissan and the main difference I found was under additives where the Suzuki & CCI both say "proprietary". Also, the SDS for the Suzuki product was created 10/10/2010 whereas the CCI branded product was created 10/20/2010. Coincidence?

I've posted the links below for anyone who is over-thinking this as I am.

Suzuki Branded SDS link:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...9032-20X.pdf&usg=AOvVaw26Apj4V26Q9OWWkc-c7hfF

CCI Branded Coolant: Meets ASTM D-3306. /Honda, Acura - OL999-9011, Nissan, Infiniti - 999MP-L25500P, Subaru - SOA868V9270, Mitsubishi - MZ320125

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...270_msds.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0Hu8Ktl_nKupEcLYhUEYrM

The CCI labeled stuff really isn't much cheaper than the Suzuki, but it's a little easier to find sources for than the Suzuki branded product. So, after wasting an afternoon on one of the nicest days we've had in Houston this year, I think I may go with the Zerex Asian since it's less than half the price, readily available, and also meets the same Honda/Nissan/Subaru requirements as CCI.
 

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The Zerex Asian is fine. I always go with the 50/50 mix so as not to fool with mixing, or running around trying to find real distilled water.
After all, the coolant doesn't know whether its in the radiator of a Suzuki, Honda, or Chevrolet.
 

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My DL650 manual says:
"Use the following coolants in that order:
1. Suzi super long life coolant (color Blue)
2. Suzi long life coolant (color Green) or equivalent

Engine coolant. Use an anti-freeze/engine coolant compatible with an aluminum radiator."

I edited out a few words, but nothing important. The manual goes on to discuss using premixed AF vs. adding water to AF and says to use distilled water. It also mentions that AF contains chemicals that act as a corrosion and rust inhibitor - no surprises there.

Hondas do not like silicates in the AF, but is is my understanding that most brands out there today do not contain these, so probably any brand is usable. Leaving AF in for more than the recommended duration of time can lead to corrosion and it is probably better to change the AF more often than recommended if you are not using Suzi's branded juice. I've always found it interesting that some guys change their oil at half the recommended intervals but let the AF stay in the engine for far longer than suggested.* YMMV.

*I have some unhappy experience with what happens when you leave AF in an aluminum engine for far far longer than recommended. Fortunately, no long term harm was done, but I was very lucky.
 

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Get a gallon size Honda coolant from the car dealer. It'll do a couple changes with a little left over. I've been using it since I started riding radiator equipt bikes.
 
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