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Hi All,

Hope someone can help. I am mechanically useless, and at 120 kgs on a 2010 DL1000 after 40K's think the suspension would be in need of a bit of attention.
I am in search of what to look for and what I need to be aware of so when I go somewhere I am at least sold what is required.

I rarely go two up, but it does happen from time to time, and travel mostly on tar, but with the odd fire track thrown in.

Look forward to your help guys.
 

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You will spend $2000 to upgrade your suspension and still it wont be as good as the New DL1000A. These are available (ex demo)for under $15,000 rideaway with warranty. The plus is you also get top quality brakes, ABS and TC not to mention all bugs fixed and bragging rights. Even at 120kgs the torque low down will make you feel like Valentino Rossi in tight leathers. Worth considering if you don't have to factor in a divorce and you have the folding.
 

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120 kg = 265 lbs.

Step 1--Change the front springs to some that suit your loaded riding weight. The Sonic Springs pages shows 1.0 kg/mm springs are right for you. The passenger doesn't effect the front. US$85 (AU$97) plus postage plus installation.
SonicSprings.com

Step 2--Contact Cogent Dynamics about the costs and benefits of either rebuilding and upgrading the stock shock or buying a new, better shock. Also find out the cost of a spring suited to the riding weight of you and your pax.
Shock Service

After you get the new springs installed, have the shop set the sag for you. This is how much the suspension compresses with just your weight (and you and the passenger) sitting on the bike. Around 40 mm is good. The preload adjusters set the sag.

You might be able to find all these services in Australia, or you might do better by buying them in the U.S. and having them installed locally. Check both ways.
 

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Chad's Suspension Geelong

why don't you talk to Chad to see what he suggests.
 

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Learn from my mistakes!

As a Motorcycle Suspension Tech I can tell you Slapping springs on each end will only carry the weight. Re-valving the forks and up grading the rear shock will control the movement of your suspension, and doing one without the other will not produce meaningful improvements. Also keep in mind fork oil viscosities vary widely from brand to brand as there is no industrial standard like motor oils have. The most consistent oil I have found is Race Tech, their 5wt is actually 5wt.

My reccomendation is purchase, install and set up the following

Select and purchase the proper fork springs. If you use Sonic Springs use their suggested oil height and preload specs. If you use Race Tech follow their specs.
Purchase Race Tech Gold fork rebound and compression valve kits
Purchase Race Tech's 5wt Super Slick fork oil (don't skimp here the above valving works well with this oil)
Use SKF Super Slick fork seals (these are amazing and far superior to stock)
Purchase a fork brace (Murphs Kits...It is adjustable they are better)
Purchase a custom built rear shock. (In my case Ohlins.)

Prior to my training in Motorcycle Suspension (not MMI) I tried the springs and fork oil route to save dollars and ended up with the above formula to put the handling to bed for good.

My Vee had zero small bump compliance and the front end bounced along on the highway stretches. It was not all stiction but more a matter of poor fork dampening. I tried the cheap route and lived with it until I just got disgusted with the suspensions performance now I have a bike I truly love again and handles like a dream!
 
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