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2012 650 My throttle has always been twitchy from on to off at slow speeds but it seems to be getting worse. It's really hard to hold a steady speed below 30 mph. It's not a cable slack problem. TPS maybe? Any ideas?
 

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My 2013 DL650 is as smooth as butter at low speeds great for when leaving the Lions shop after a game of rugby & slowly pushing thru crowds on the footpath .

Something must be up
 

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Wow that's weird, my 15 does nothing as which you describe. Might consider a throttle tamer, they aren't cheap but I understand work as advertised.
 

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I had a '16 CB500X that had that issue. Very tricky to modulate the throttle on rough roads. It just needed more friction so I took a length of bailing twine and tied it between the throttle and the brake lever housing. Worked a treat!
 

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Just to clarify. I wrapped it around in the space between them...
 

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How many miles?

TPS adjusting:
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a-2017/417677-snappy-throttle-off.html
Read through that thread. It's for the V2 but I assume yours is not too different. Do you have the service manual? It has the instructions how to set the TPS. Apparently many are not set correctly and it may effect how the bike is behaving.

The reference in #2 is for the WEE and I don't think the new 650 model has the same procedure.
 

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Also check you have no slack in the pull cable.

There is a cam on the end of the throttle tube, that cam has a lump, if you have slack in the cable you will hit that lump much earlier, this causes the throttle to open more and early so you shut it off thus causing the snatch.


I fitted a throttle tamer to my V2 and I'm happy with the results .
 

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Is this snappy throttle been there always or recently? If recently maybe the TPS is wearing out.

You have a service manual? If yes do the TPS settings test/ adjustment, it may help.

If no, ask the community what the settings/ procedure are for your DL650.
 

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Are you sure it has nothing to do with your cables?

Adjusting your throttle cables can make a LOT of difference.

Made a HUGE difference in the low speed manners of my 2012! I was commuting back then....and in stop and go traffic it was quite irritating.

There is a rubber boot over the upper chrome cable guide coming out of your throttle. Shuck back the cover, loosen the knurled wheel lock, then adjust by turning the adjuster. Take ALL the slack out of the throttle. Tighten knurled lock. Put back cover. This is a push/pull cable system so you don't need to worry about slack. I suppose you could get it over tight, and that might increase idle speed? Just get the slack out and let us know how that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Are you sure it has nothing to do with your cables?

Adjusting your throttle cables can make a LOT of difference.

Made a HUGE difference in the low speed manners of my 2012! I was commuting back then....and in stop and go traffic it was quite irritating.

There is a rubber boot over the upper chrome cable guide coming out of your throttle. Shuck back the cover, loosen the knurled wheel lock, then adjust by turning the adjuster. Take ALL the slack out of the throttle. Tighten knurled lock. Put back cover. This is a push/pull cable system so you don't need to worry about slack. I suppose you could get it over tight, and that might increase idle speed? Just get the slack out and let us know how that helps.

All the slack is out. The adjuster is about out of threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I could deal with it and have been with working the clutch but the bike is going to my son and he's a new rider and a herky jerky throttle is hard to learn on. He actually rode the bike some time ago and commented about the throttle. He said he couldn't do a steady 25 MPH.
 

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I could deal with it and have been with working the clutch but the bike is going to my son and he's a new rider and a herky jerky throttle is hard to learn on. He actually rode the bike some time ago and commented about the throttle. He said he couldn't do a steady 25 MPH.
With 69K miles it could be worn shafts and/or seals on the throttle body. I went through this with my K7 DL650A with 80K miles and after a lot of time and effort I ended up just replacing them with a used throttle body from ebay. Throttle was touchy, wouldn't hold steady RPMs just off idle, etc. Throttle Body Rebuild (K7 DL650A). I don't know if this would work as a test but if you lift the tank and get access to the TB while its running maybe you can spray the shafts where they enter the throttle body with carb cleaner and see if the idle jumps then they maybe leaking.
 

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There should be a little play in the cables, 4mm rotational according to the book. Perhaps the issue is that there is no play, and any tiny movement of the bars is affecting the pull.
 

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My 2014 was virtually unrideable when I first got it due to twitchy throttle at low speeds. It was terrible coming out of low speed hairpin corners, crossing through gutters up onto streets, etc.

But it turned out to be an ergonomics problem, not a mechanical problem with the throttle.

My arms were extended just a little too much, which meant that larger muscle groups/ body movements were coming into play, moving my throttle hand. Solved completely by handlebar risers (up and back). (And new cables, brake lines, etc., unfortunately.)

But I have excellent control over it now, even through bumps and gutters.

.............shu
 

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Similar comment except I took the slack out and fixed the front suspension, it's quite nice now. (Same problem on 2006 & 2012 DL's)

I would suggest that you check you only have the slack out of the pull side. Tighten both and you can bend the linkage at the throttle body. You may be able to check that with a torch. I suspect something like that because even with 100,000k's + on two DL's I only had to do that adjustment once.
 

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I may have said this before but a slack drive chain makes it harder to control at slow speeds - herky-jerky.

Although my KLR was properly adjusted, the 'cush-drive', which is the rubber star thing inside the rear hub was beat to death after 40k miles and was causing a lose-chain behavior. I could wobble the drive hub back and forth by hand, which had the chain riding at an angle to the rear sprocket under load.

You can replace or use small scraps of old inner-tubes to shim around each lobe to take out the slack. That cush-drive doesn't last forever especially if you've been hard on throttle and/or off-roading, which pounds it harder as you lose / gain grip over and over.

Just something to look into if you've looked everywhere else and it's still got some issues.
 

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My 2014 Wee was very twitchy until I got a G2 Throttle Tamer from Revzilla. It is a replacement throttle grip sleeve made out of machined aluminum that has a cam action on the throttle cable at the low end. It was pricey, $72, but it really helped.
 

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