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Discussion Starter #1
Ok,

So a few weekends ago I did the gas tank removal procedure, partly for fun, but also to check out the air filter, and, to replace that wimpy stock horn.

I purchase a new replacement horn, hoping I could just swap it out, but clearly, there's not enough space back there to do. Actually, there's barely enough space for my hands to disconnect the stock horn.

So, how the hell do I disconnect the connectors on the stock horn and reconnect to my new horn that I still need to find a place for?

any ideas?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Removing the bottom screw on the radiator allows it to be swung forward a bit. I like a good, loud replacement like a Stebel. A loud horn needs a relay and the usual practice is to replace the stock horn with a horn relay. Then a new horn can be mounted in a number of places, most often in the cowling or beside the front cylinder. Use the Google search box near the top of the page for a search on Stebel for lots of possibilities.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i have a PIAA horn ready in the box. Im assuming i dont need a relay for this
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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i have a PIAA horn ready in the box. Im assuming i dont need a relay for this
They claim not but I would use a relay with any louder horn. Cook the spring on the horn button and you'll have to get a whole new handlebar switch at well over $100 for the part alone or find a tiny replacement spring from another source that will fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the feedback.

can you point me on how to install a relay for this replacement horn?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I dig your profile picture, Toronto!

Here's a vid on how to install the harness - - the Vid shows installing for a Stebel, but the procedure for the wiring harness/relay is very very similar, if not the same for your PIAA.

You might want to return your PIAA after seeing this though!...

 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks

GW, based on your previous post, I will wait until i get my PC8 box and wire from there
 

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GW, based on your previous post, I will wait until i get my PC8 box and wire from there
Depending on what other accessories you plan to wire through the PC-8, you might not want to connect the horn to it. As Jim Davis of Eastern Beaver says on his horn relay kits page:
IMPORTANT: You can connect a Horn Kit through an auxiliary fuse panel only if you don't have a lot of high current stuff already connected. A high powered horn like the [Stebel] Nautilus can draw 16 Amps and that could blow the main fuse on your fuse panel if you're already drawing more than 14 Amps. I suggest connecting a Horn Kit directly to the battery so your fuse panel retains its full capacity. Add up the Amps from your horn or horns if you are wondering if you should connect to your fuse panel. More than 10 Amps of horn(s) should go directly on the battery.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I have my horn and headlights on switched and unswitched sections of my PC8. That way, each high draw item runs through separate 30A PC8 feeder fuses before their own fuse.
 

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I just installed the headlight relay, if I want to upgrade to a stebel, I would need another separate relay? Does the PC8 centralize electrical components directly to the battery, circumventing the smaller factory wiring?
Where do the relays come in, are the PC8?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Wow, You're all over the place. A relay is just an electrically controlled switch. It allows a light duty switch and wiring like the Strom's headlight controls to throw the relay and the relay's heavy duty contacts and wiring to handle the load.

You need headlight relays in the kit for the headlight, a horn relay for the horn and a relay for the PC8 to turn it on with the ignition. The PC8 provides fused connections to connect ground and hot wires like the ones to the horn and headlight relays. If you do that, use both the switched and unswitched outputs. Don't run both the headlight relays and horn relays from the same side of the PC8.
 

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Thanks for clarifying that GW, The bulb flickered on for a moment....
I went back and re-read the EB website. Just a fused distribution box, with a relay option to send power to the 6 "switched" outputs when the ignition is on, with 2 direct outputs.
Just one thing, the headlight relay wiring kit, wouldn't matter if was connected to the switched or always on output of the PC8, cause it has its own relay anyway?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Just one thing, the headlight relay wiring kit, wouldn't matter if was connected to the switched or always on output of the PC8, cause it has its own relay anyway?
That's right. Either the horn or the headlights can be connected to the unswitched side because the headlight relays and horn relay are off when the ignition is off.
 

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On the simpler side of things, I was able to remove the stock horn wires without loosening or moving anything. Just a pair of needle nose pliers. The wire connectors just slip off the horn. I have a Stebel and a cool mounting bracket from Pat Walsh Designs. Fits snug on the left side of the front cylinder with the air intake hose routed up underneath the tank.
 

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I have my horn and headlights on switched and unswitched sections of my PC8. That way, each high draw item runs through separate 30A PC8 feeder fuses before their own fuse.
GW, do you have a picture of this? I'm slightly confused on what you mean here? :confused:
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Here's a pic of the PC8. The feeder connections are labeled for power, battery and ground. BAT takes a feed directly from the battery+ through one 30A fuse, PWR takes a feed through another 30A fuse and relay from the battery+ switched on by the ignition switch and GND takes a feed from the battery-. I have the horn power fused through one of the two fuses on the right fed from the BAT terminal. I have the HID headlights fused through one of the six fuses on the left fed by the PWR terminal. On my new bike, the horn connection has its own fuse directly to a positive bus bar and doesn't use the PC8.

 

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thanks GW! when i was reading through your reply it just clicked, then i re-read your first post and it made sense. you don't have both of them through one of the 30 amp fuses, you've got them separated by having the lights on the switched one and the horn on the constant ones.

my horn quit working, and i found out while almost getting ran over on this last saturday, so now i need to see where my problem is...but one way or another i will be digging into it and maybe replacing the stock horn...
 
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