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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi folks:

Writing to you from Isla de Ometeppe, Nicaragua. I am trying to make it to Panama City in a few weeks; so these mechanical problems are coming at exactly the right time (the challenge round!).

In any case, I tried to start up the bike this morning, and it couldn't. I checked the battery (12.8V - fine)... then went to checking the fuses. The 30A fuse that is the ignition fuse one fuse by itself, remove the plastic cover, inside are a 30A fuse and a 30A spare. I examined the fuse.

The fuse wasn't shorted... the plastic portion was melted. I replaced with another 30A fuse this morning. Not a 10 minute ride later; the same thing happened. I replaced with another 30A fuse and now I'm writing to you from the hostal in the hopes I can fix this myself as I'm 30K from the nearest mechanic and don't know how long the replacement fuse will last.

I know that if the fuse is shorted; it indicates a short in the system somewhere. However in the event that there is melted fuse (but metal fuse is in tact); I'm thinking there's something corrupt/wrong/etc with the fuse "holder". Bad connections etc.

I'd love your suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

PS: If it matters; I am also running:
* Eastern Beaver Headlight Relay Kit
* Eastern Beaver PC -8
Unswitched Circuits: 12V outlet
Switched Circuits: Symtec grip heaters, Garmin hardwire kit; Datatel voltmeter;
 

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Your first step is to take the seat and tank off the bike so you can take a very good look at all the wiring. The heat that melts the fuse is caused by excessive current flow. This is most likely caused by chafed insulation somewhere that causes a short circuit at that point. It might be in the fuse holder or it might be elsewhere. Take a very good look for any sign of heat damage or bare wires or chafed insulation. Look everywhere. Follow every wire.
 

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mismanufactured

my 2C,

for the plastic to melt it sounds like the fuse is running hot but not hot enough to blow the metal

if BOTH fuses that melted were bought in the same package I would suggest a misslabelling by the manufacturer (i.e., a 40A labelled as 30A) in conjunction with abnormally high currents in the circuit - the fuse runs hot but does not blow or the wrong grade of plastic was used in manufacturing

as far as connection, I have had old cars with dirty connections (Chevy Impala) that used to repeatedly not work due to overheating and damaging the fuse block connections (but the glass fuse bodies never melted).

If you have more spare fuses plug one in, turn on bike to fast idle, and feel around for a wire that is physically hot - a clue to the problem circuit - maybe instead do it with a wrench shorting the two adjacent terminals on the main fuse block (they are adjacent for a good reason)

how bright do your headlights look with bike on but not running?

Is a wire chafed somewhere and shorting to ground?

BTW - in my service manual that circuit, in the simplfied diagram, runs thusly, from ground, to battery, to the 30A fuse, to the ignition switch, to the 15A fuse, to sidestand relay, to engine stop switch, thence to ECM. Logically, after the 30A fuse it goes to other components as well, via that secondary fuse panel with six fuses, such as gages, fuel pump etc, starter relay (coil); and it also goes from the 30A fuse to the the regulator-rectifier circuits and starter motor via relay load contacts.

In general, From the 30A fuse its a B/R wire; from the secondary fuse block its a R/W wire(s) - on the main circuit path.

Note that most downstream circuits are protected by the secondary fuse block - and those fuses should blow first if you have shorted wiring downstream - which suggests that your problem is in the front end wiring and/or charging circuit or starting circuit.

Is there any chance that the starter motor relay sticks on and you are not aware of it?

Is the charging ciruit charging properly? I.e., you ride all day with lights on and battery voltge is good at end of the day, or you get 14V at the battery on your multimeter while the bike is runing

if by dumb luck your fuse plastic is shit but amps are ok in the bike wiring you can short the two terminals adjacent to the 30A fuse with some thin conductor - thin enough to act as a fuse, or wire in a temporary fuse.

Good luck and keep us posted
 

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There have been problems with the manual kill switch.
You might take a look at it.

Good luck
 

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hre is relevant piece of wiring diagram

in case its not on your mobile device

here is a jpeg

I tried a pdf - but it exceeded the forum's file size limit of 19.5kB!!??

I can always email you a pdf separately
 

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Discussion Starter #7
for the plastic to melt it sounds like the fuse is running hot but not hot enough to blow the metal

if BOTH fuses that melted were bought in the same package I would suggest a misslabelling by the manufacturer (i.e., a 40A labelled as 30A) in conjunction with abnormally high currents in the circuit - the fuse runs hot but does not blow or the wrong grade of plastic was used in manufacturing
Same fuses from same manufacturer; picked up in Guatemala.

as far as connection, I have had old cars with dirty connections (Chevy Impala) that used to repeatedly not work due to overheating and damaging the fuse block connections (but the glass fuse bodies never melted).
How would I go about cleaning the connections? I have WD-40 but no dialetric grease (will be picking some of that up next time I'm at a bike shop).

If you have more spare fuses plug one in, turn on bike to fast idle, and feel around for a wire that is physically hot - a clue to the problem circuit - maybe instead do it with a wrench shorting the two adjacent terminals on the main fuse block (they are adjacent for a good reason)
I threw in a brand new Napa 30A fuse; and felt around for wires to be hot; and felt nothing.

how bright do your headlights look with bike on but not running?
Bright enough to hurt my eyes looking at them.

Is a wire chafed somewhere and shorting to ground?
My next move is to take the tank off and see if I can find anything chafing. In my inspection I have noticed that the brake cable is rubbing a little bit but that isn't electrical as far as I know (but it is good to know).

BTW - in my service manual that circuit, in the simplfied diagram, runs thusly, from ground, to battery, to the 30A fuse, to the ignition switch, to the 15A fuse, to sidestand relay, to engine stop switch, thence to ECM. Logically, after the 30A fuse it goes to other components as well, via that secondary fuse panel with six fuses, such as gages, fuel pump etc, starter relay (coil); and it also goes from the 30A fuse to the the regulator-rectifier circuits and starter motor via relay load contacts.

In general, From the 30A fuse its a B/R wire; from the secondary fuse block its a R/W wire(s) - on the main circuit path.

Note that most downstream circuits are protected by the secondary fuse block - and those fuses should blow first if you have shorted wiring downstream - which suggests that your problem is in the front end wiring and/or charging circuit or starting circuit.
How can I check this part of the system? I'm still kind of a noob. :p

Is there any chance that the starter motor relay sticks on and you are not aware of it?
Don't know how I could check that.

Is the charging ciruit charging properly? I.e., you ride all day with lights on and battery voltge is good at end of the day, or you get 14V at the battery on your multimeter while the bike is runing
Yes charging system is running great; I have a voltmeter wired to the bike (so I can see it workin) and my multimeter has verified this.

if by dumb luck your fuse plastic is shit but amps are ok in the bike wiring you can short the two terminals adjacent to the 30A fuse with some thin conductor - thin enough to act as a fuse, or wire in a temporary fuse.
I am going to check for chafing. My thoughts are:
1) Chafed wire somewhere
2) Bad fuse (as otherwise; why wouldn't the fuse blow ... and the plastic melting twice).

Thanks for your thorough post!
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Discussion Starter #9

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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All the suggestions on problems with certain areas are not the culprit other than possibly the starter relay or charging system. That 30 amp fuse is the main fuse, not an ignition fuse. Any of those other places mentioned would blow a smaller fuse. The fuse is not blowing and the charging system is working so the next thing I'd check is the main fuse holder. Does the fuse fit easily or does it take some effort to seat it? A good push should be required. If it is too easy, heat from the poor connection would melt the plastic. If in doubt and a new starter relay box is too hard to get, take out the fuse and put in a heavy duty fuse holder, not a basic in line fuse, with a new 30A fuse and wire it between the two Black/Red wires to the relay box and the battery+. The two B/R wires connect inside the relay box but you want to connect both to one side of the new fuse so both wires are handling the load for the entire connection.
 

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Could you elaborate?
My apologies, I meant to type "Starter Switch".

I can't find the thread I was looking for, I think it got nuked.

Try searching starter switch repair or maintenace.

Again, my apologies, I'm not really in a position to offer any more help at the moment.



Good luck.
 

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If you are a noob at electrical this will be not so much fun

I have never had to work on DL650 electrics so far, only my EX250 and many cars

BTW – I was an Assistant Scout Master for T42 in San Mateo for almost about a decade – I introduced our Scouts to snow camping and Klondike Derby

If starter relay stuck on one would expect to hear starter motor whining or screaming if you rev the bike – but I only know that from cars

The type of fuse we have does not lend itself to cleaning of the contacts very easily – its much easier to wire in a new bypass fuse between the two adjacent big terminal posts just to the front of the main fuse block (as GW sggested)

Thats interesting that both of the failed fuses were from same pack - how many OTHER BRAND fuses to you have to experiment with (keeping one in reserve)


in the old days :) we could just wrap aluminum foil around the glass cylindrical fuses - these new ones are a PITA
 

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Discussion Starter #13
All the suggestions on problems with certain areas are not the culprit other than possibly the starter relay or charging system. That 30 amp fuse is the main fuse, not an ignition fuse. Any of those other places mentioned would blow a smaller fuse.
I'm happy to check the starter relay or the charging system, but I need more step by step instructions other than "check the system". I have read through: http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl-1000-specific/68632-30a-fuse-keeps-blowing-maybe-short-how-could-i-troubleshoot-ir.html where I think you help guide another V-Strom owner through checking the stator. Would you recommend I follow this procedure myself?

The fuse is not blowing and the charging system is working so the next thing I'd check is the main fuse holder. Does the fuse fit easily or does it take some effort to seat it? A good push should be required. If it is too easy, heat from the poor connection would melt the plastic. If in doubt and a new starter relay box is too hard to get, take out the fuse and put in a heavy duty fuse holder, not a basic in line fuse, with a new 30A fuse and wire it between the two Black/Red wires to the relay box and the battery+. The two B/R wires connect inside the relay box but you want to connect both to one side of the new fuse so both wires are handling the load for the entire connection.
A good push is required to get the fuse in there. I'm guessing any part would take at minimum, two weeks, unfortunately two weeks I wouldn't have. I'm interested in your suggestion for a "heavy duty fuse holder". The different types of fuse holders I know are: inline fuse (pop in a fuse), and something like the fuse block of the PC-8.

0) Would you suggest not even looking for a short in the system? I just woke up from a nap (I was too exhausted from climbing a volcano yesterday to do anything remotely difficult).
1) Are you suggesting something like the latter (PC-8 type holder)? Might this be better than the existing fuse block?
2) I am not sure how I could connect both the B/R wires to the new fuse as wouldn't that short circuit it? It would seem like the only real way to do it is to have two 30A fuses, one for each wire.
3) Is there anything I can use to clean the connections of the existing fuse block or to "electrically lubricate" it? I've previously had dialetric grease for this purpose (but of course, can't find it when I need it).

Thanks for your input Greywolf!

I'm happy to
 

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get a new fuse holder CORRECTED

CORRECTED

remove 30A blade fuse from your bike and keep as spare

install new fuse holder per GW - using whatever kind that you can buy along with a bunch of spares

see if this fuse blows

if it does NOT blow - ride on (take spare fuses of this type too)

if it blows - post up here

BTW - for the two phillps headed bolts in photo

gold one is ground
silver one is always hot (even with 30A fuse removed and ignition off)
based on test with a lightbulb-based probe
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The two B/R wires are connected inside the starter relay housing. It's a redundant system. A 30A inline fuse with at least 12ga wires will be good enough to get you home. First, try a new pack of 30A fuses. You may have a bad pack. If it still melts, connect one side of the new fuse holder to both B/R wires and the other side to the battery positive. The main fuse carries battery power to the two B/R wires.
 

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What Kinda Bike Is That?
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What Kinda Bike Is That?
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All the suggestions on problems with certain areas are not the culprit other than possibly the starter relay or charging system. That 30 amp fuse is the main fuse, not an ignition fuse. Any of those other places mentioned would blow a smaller fuse. The fuse is not blowing and the charging system is working so the next thing I'd check is the main fuse holder. Does the fuse fit easily or does it take some effort to seat it? A good push should be required. If it is too easy, heat from the poor connection would melt the plastic. If in doubt and a new starter relay box is too hard to get, take out the fuse and put in a heavy duty fuse holder, not a basic in line fuse, with a new 30A fuse and wire it between the two Black/Red wires to the relay box and the battery+. The two B/R wires connect inside the relay box but you want to connect both to one side of the new fuse so both wires are handling the load for the entire connection.
You are in a class all by yourself, Pat. Amazing information!

Arooni, why stop at South America? With a fellow like Greywolf, in your "tool kit", you could ride around the world!

B.L.
 

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Look around rear exhaust pipe, any wire touching it and the insulation will go away.

Especially with any aftermarket wiring

Be careful as that kind of electrical load would be hard on the charging system. Or if you have reduced voltage then more heat but your battery would die very shortly
 

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Grewolf's other name is Siri

With a fellow like Greywolf, in your "tool kit", you could ride around the world!

Methinks that Grewolf's other name is Siri
 

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With a fellow like Greywolf, in your "tool kit", you could ride around the world!

Methinks that Grewolf's other name is Siri
He's so cute, I wish I could just put him in my pocket.

The only reason I post any technical responses is to keep the thread high in the "new Posts" list, plus I know it really annoys him to see the typically innacurate, incomplete and incompetent technical information I tend to inflict.
 
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