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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Talk about a piece of cake. Remove front caliper (2x14mm bolts), remove a cotter pin from retaining rod, slide the rod out, and viola, just slide the brake pads off the rod on the other end. Clean caliper/pistons thoroughly with brake cleaner and a toothbrush, and re-assemble with new pads (EBC HH in my case). Torque caliper bolts to 39 Nm. Repeat on the other side. Don't forget to pump up the front brake a bunch of times to get the pads against the rotors.
Or so it said on the v-strom forum. The bit I'm stuck on is "slide the rod out". I can do the bit before ( remove cotter pin ) and I'm sure the other wil be fine. I just cant get this rod out that is holding both pads in place at one end.

Anyone tell me how I can get this rod out? Its (2) in the picture that should appear below.
 

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replace pads

Or so it said on the v-strom forum. The bit I'm stuck on is "slide the rod out". I can do the bit before ( remove cotter pin ) and I'm sure the other wil be fine. I just cant get this rod out that is holding both pads in place at one end.

Anyone tell me how I can get this rod out? Its (2) in the picture that should appear below.
Maybe you still have pressure on the pads? Can you move the pads easily? If they are still tight then the last thing you may have done was push the front brake. First spin the front wheel (if possible), then see if you can push the brake pad back against the caliper. This will force the caliper back and release the pressure on the pads. That should help you get the rod out. Note that you want to push that caliper back as far as you can so you can fit the new pads in!!! If that caliper isn't back far enough there won't be enough room for the new pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Pads are loose. Calliper is totally off the bike. Pistons are now back into the caliper as far as they look like they need to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pictures of a hand holding a brake calliper.





The rod looks like it might have a 'nut' on it. I read 'slide' as meaning just that, but does it prehaps need to be unscrewed rather than being slid?
 

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There is a cotter pin holding the rod in. As shown in the last photo look to the LEFT of the right boss that is holding the rod. It is between the boss on the caliper that the rod slides through and the pad itself. It's hard to find but it IS there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep, cotter pin already removed. That bit went fine. I even managed to cling on to it rather than having it spin all the way across the garage floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got one out ( yeah ) so thats one side almost done. Several sprays with spray oil and 'liquid wrench' and a mole grip around the centre of the pin and got it turning. Other side is spinning as well but needs more time to get it sliding. Must just have been the accumulation of muck that was holding them firm.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well that was ... exciting....

New pads fitted to front and a couple mile test ride around an indistrial estate completed with some heavy braking. Thanks for everyones help.

The rear one can wait til the weekend now I know what a mucky job it is.
 

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It's best to avoid heavy braking until the pads are bedded in.
 

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From the EBC web site:

9. Bedding in EBC pads
In Street use situations …
Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied.
Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.
Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.
A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realised. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place.

NEVER attempt to sand or scotchbrite brake pads to assist it bedding in or noise reduction,this will only make things worse by taking the pads "Off-Flat" and require hundreds of miles driving to seat them again during which time the brakes will feel very dull. The only way to seat pads is against the rotor they will be used on and by following our bedding recommendation.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think my 'heavy braking' might easily be classified as light bedding in by other people :) Ride up to about 35 then brake to a halt, repeat and repeat over a straight line.

Certainly felt much better this morning on my commute.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
At least the back ones were so easy. Why didnt Suzuki put the front ones on the same way so that they could be unscrewed with an allan key?
 
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