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Discussion Starter #1
As many of you know my wife and I greatly appreciate the opportunity to spend our retirement coming up with solutions for the community. Thank you. Anyway, its time for a fun payback project. With your help I'm going to design and make some bolt on luggage racks for the Wee3, Vee2/3 bikes. Maybe the Wee2 later.

I'm going to keep the costs WAY down. How far down you ask? ~$35 for the small rack. A little more for the large.

No modification of the stock rack will be necessary. The racks will; bolt onto the existing Wee3/Vee2/Vee3 racks using the existing rack mounting points in the front and a sandwich style clamp at the back of the stock rack.

Sizes:

To keep the overall cost low I suggest that they be sized to fit in the standard priority mail packages.

That means greatest dimensions of 12" x 9" for the smaller and 14" x 12" for the larger. Also to keep cost down they will be simple flat racks, but since they will be made of 3/16" aluminum they will be plenty strong enough.

3/8" wide slots on corners, sides, and center front and back for straps or bungees. Racks can be engraved with "Stromtrooper" or the buyers username, real name, name of favorite pet, whatever. Or not.

Drawings to follow shortly. Please feel free to comment and help make this better.
 

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I think this is a great idea Rick, I’ve been looking for an affordable rack alternative. I just installed your foot peg and gear shift kit and mirror extenders and have to say they make a HUGE improvement in my comfort. I’m sure your rack will be just as affordable, stylish, functional and easy to install as the rest of your products. Thank you for supporting the community.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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I've had a little feedback on this and will get started tonight. Will post instructions for DIY for those wanting to make their own. That way they can take advantage of lower cost scrap material of materials they already have on hand. The price of aluminum has gone way up due to the tariffs, but the price for scrap has gone way done and not much is needed for a project like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)


This post is actively being worked.

DIY shelf instructions

I'm writing these instruction for a 3/16" thick aluminum shelf. The bolts lengths can be adjusted for other materials thicknesses, but i recommend working with 3/16" aluminum in this case because it is plenty strong, stiff, light weight and easy to work with (e.g., cut and shape).

Mounting bolts: two button head M8 x 1.25 X 70 mm long, two button head M6 x 1 x 60 mm long, zinc plated or stainless steel. Or, if you have the ability to make a 90 degree countersink hole you can use flush socket head cap screws.

Spacers: 5/8" Diameter (16 mm) drilled through center to accommodate bolts. Two 5/8" (16 mm) long, two 1.3" (33 mm) long.

Rear mounting plates: Two plates 3/16" thick aluminum, 1.5" x 2.75" (38 x 70 mm)

Two M6 x 1 nylock nuts, zinc plated or stainless.

The diagram below shows the crucial data for mounting a rack using the spacers noted above. The two holes for the 8 mm bolts are 100 mm apart (3.937") and 125 mm forward (4.921") of the center of the most rear center slot in the stock rack that came with the bike.

Two plates approximately 1.5" x 2.75" with 1/4" holes (for the 6 mm bolts) are to be spaced 40 mm apart. You can vary that a little of course. Just be sure the holes in the rack match the holes in the plate. You can do that by making the holes in the two plates at the same time and then using the plates as a template to drill the holes in the rack.



The three horizintal lines on thi drawing rprsnt 3/8" slots for 2" straps that would run under what was being carried through the slots and then wrap around the top of what was being carried. Slots could be put on the sides as well.

The sides could be tappered a little to reduce the apparent size fo the rack and blend with the line of the bike, or not.

A simple rack like this one can be cut with a circular saw using a metal cutting blade (It's as easy as cutting wood) and routered using a 3/8" carbide tipped router bit. I milled this one on my CNC mill and will make them available cheap. More to come soon. Contact me for requests. I"M HAVING FUN.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Contact me using our website contact form or call (on same page) for requests. A soon as I get enough interest I'll get the materials and get started making them. Figure $35 each for anything like pictured above and variations as long as they don't get too big.
 

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I'm very interested to see how the expandable rack turns out, sounds like exactly what I'm looking for. I've been following your ideas on this and the speed that you're developing at is impressive!
 

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LOL. Dang now I'm thinking... I have to go look at my bike - but could you extend the plate over the rear seat a bit? I never ride with a passenger so I like to shift my loads a bit more forward so I don't have anything too heavy cantilevered off the rear.
 

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Well good news and bad. The bad is I just found out that we have not been getting our contact forms from our website. the problem was/is with outlook so we are going to get our own email (.. @ADVeturetech.com). For now use the Persoanl message function here on Stromtrooper.

Good news is I'm having a blast with this project and feedback has been very good. So I will be ordering material and moving forward. Will still post information for the DIY types as we go.

Keep those suggestions coming.

Regarding the front edge of the rack and the rear seat, I'll check to see if a smooth transition from rack to seat is possible.
 

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LOL. Dang now I'm thinking... I have to go look at my bike - but could you extend the plate over the rear seat a bit? I never ride with a passenger so I like to shift my loads a bit more forward so I don't have anything too heavy cantilevered off the rear.
Don’t you just load up the rear seat anyway? What difference would the plate extending forward make?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I wondered the same thing because one of the original design features of the V-Strom was a rack at the same level of the rear seat so large bags could be fit lengthwise, but I'll look at it today.

Edit/Update: Yep, the stock rack is designed to be even with the passenger seat. So anyone wanted to use the passenger seat and a larger rear rack would befit from having the larger rear rack mounted directly to the stock rack instead of elevated above it.

That's not a problem. The larger rear rack can be made to clear the handrails and be as wide as anyone would want.
 

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What I'm really after is something akin the the solo seat on the BMW GS.

Since I can't modify the seat - why not modify the rack :)

I can strap stuff to the seat but if I had a plate over it I wouldn't have to worry about damaging the seat. :)
 

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Have you considered some type of extra support for the rack plate, like this? Hepco and Becker makes it, not sure if it's truly useful, but I know the weight limit is quite low on the rack. Do you think it would be compatible with the Shad 3P system?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here is a not so pretty work in progress. This is the expanding version of the 11 x 14 rack. It expands to 24" wide by relocating the upper two plates. Will be powder coated black in final version. Plate will be $35 and expansion plates another $30.



 

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I put aircraft captive nuts on the bottom of my homemade plate so I could bolt down a top case (dewalt tool box) (OK- it's not a quick release setup but it is secure and doesn't take that long to attach/ remove). I also made a dohickey to attach a Givi tankbag flange. That way I can mount my tankbag on the plate most of the time instead of on top of the gas tank (I still have a flange on the gas tank if I use the top case).

For example:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-16-weld-in-steel-cage-nuts-retaining-floating-cage-nut-4-pcs/323202067416?hash=item4b40582bd8:g:lL8AAOSwHgdazRGa:rk:9:pf:0
 
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