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Discussion Starter #1
Can't believe it. Rode to work today, used the Strom again to run an errand just before lunch and then after lunch it wouldn't start. The starter will not crank. This is an almost new bike with just 2600 miles on the clock.

I have tested a few components and taken a few meter readings and I know the starter relay coil is not getting any voltage. I also know the engine cut off switch works as does the clutch switch and clutch switch relay. The starter relay bench checks good but again is getting no voltage to energize the coil.

The side stand/turn signal relay however is not engaging. It's as silent as... well as a dead relay. The side stand switch is a bit puzzling as it did not "ohm out" as the manual said it should yet if you bump start the bike and then put the sidestand down in gear, it will kill the engine like it's supposed to.

Anyone seen this kind of thing before? Thanks..
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Dead Strom Mystery Solved

In case this happens to anyone else, here's what I found...

The starter switch contacts were arced badly enough that no current would flow across them. I cleaned them up with a breaker point file (remember breaker points?) and reassembled the switch. It works fine now.

Here's the real question however. Why did the contacts on a switch that's only been used for a short time, become so badly arced/pitted? I posed this question to my boss who happens to be an electronic engineer among other things.

He told me that devices like the coils in a relay are inductors. When you stop current to an inductor they tend to drive voltages very high. So as the starter switch is being released the relay(s) want to pull high voltage across the contacts of the switch which will cause arcing. To combat this effect diodes are often used in such circuits.

There are several diodes in the Strom starting circuit. There's one in the side stand switch and several in the turn signal/side stand relay. That's not the only reason they are there but it would seem that's part of it. I am now wondering if there could possible be faulty diodes in my Strom.

Has anyone else had a starter switch fail regardless of miles ridden/times used? I appreciate any feedback you might have to offer.

Ride well (connected)


Jeff
 

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I seem to be having a similar problem.... Here is a copy of a letter I sent to one of the forum members..


Recently I started having trouble starting my 02 DL1000. At first this would happen after running the bike for awhile and then trying to restart after a short stop. I would hit the starter button and nothing would happen, no clicking or anything. If I held the starter in for a few seconds the bike would then fire up. This started to happen even before going on a ride.... pull it out of the garage, hit the starter and nada. Hold it in for a few seconds and it starts.

The other day it did the same thing after a short stop but I couldn't get it to start at all. I had to push start the bike to get home. When I checked the voltage the battery showed 12.4 at rest and 11.5 with the key turned on. I replaced the battery after trying to charge it and it still did the same thing, hit the starter and nothing, hold it in and it starts. The bike is making 14.8 volts while running.

What could be the most likely cause of this? Starter relay?

Any ideas???


And just to note, my side stand switch is disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Strom starter problems

Indeed you could have the same problem. Try this...

Take the two screws out of the back of the starter/kill swith assembly. Now lay the front half of the cluster with the switches inside, to where you can play with it. Take a test lite, ohm meter, what have you, and test the two soldered connections to see if you have continuity with the starter button pressed. In my case I clearly did not. If you don't then of course the switch is not working.

It's easy to remove the conical switch spring from between the contacts after removing the whole switch assembly from inside the black housing. The you can examine the contacts for pitting/corrosion/etc. Clean up the contacts with very fine sandpaper, a breaker point file or somethink of that ilk. Put it back together and test it again before screwing the whole deal back onto the handlebars. I bet this fixes it.

The bigger issue of course is why are the contacts pitting? Any electrical engineers or factory mechanics out there willing to take a guess? Thanks.

Jeff
 
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