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Discussion Starter #1
I rode my '05 Wee a couple of weeks ago and all was fine. Parked it in carport and walked away.

Yesterday, went to fire it up and it was dead. Stone cold dead. Nothing - no clicks, lights, nada. HoooBoy - put the charger on it and walked away.

Went out there just now, checked to be sure of fully charged battery and turned the ignition on. Nothing. Dead.

Checked all connections - tight, clean and solid. Fuses good. Looked into nacelle with flashlight and from just a quick look, all seems tight and solid. Red switch on handlebar is on.

Is there maybe a master fuse or something hidden away that I don't know about ?? Where should I start looking ??
 

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Did you put a volt meter on the battery to determine the output voltage???
 

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^ that is my first Q also.

Rule out or in the battery first...the rest at this point would be speculation.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In my 3rd sentence I mentioned that I checked battery voltage. Went out later and checked it again - 12.4 volts. Still completely dead. I've been busy with other things and haven't had time yet to sit down and work it thru. Figured someone here may have seen the same thing.

Picture taking the battery out of the bike and turning the key on. Dead, dead, dead.

The fuse by the starter relay sounds like a possibility. How do I find it ??
 

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Depending on the type of battery 12.4 is between 50% & 75% SOC so too low and would indicate a bad battery if you have had it on charge.

You should put your meter on the battery then turn the ignition on and read the meter.

There is a very good chance your headlights are pulling your battery down to a point where it can't illuminate your dash lights.

When that happens the chances of the 30a fuse failing greatly increases.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I had checked the fuse panel and all are good. Didn't know about the 30A one and it took some searching. You're right - the 30A was blown and I just happened to have a spare. When I plugged it in it sparked and snapped and blew, so I have a direct short in there somewhere. Getting late and I'm tired, so will go after it tomorrow. Thanks.

Something that surprises me is that the positive wire to the starter is hot with ignition off. I would expect it to be hot when start button is pushed. Switched negative seems unlikely on a starter that's mounted to the engine, tho' I know it's common in lighter duty circuits.

It surprised me in that the negative is fused, not the positive as I'd expect. Also surprised that "something" changed while it was sitting. When I rode it into carport the other week, it ran fine and all seemed well. Went to start it 2 weeks later and here I sit.

Suzuki engineers may have made the bike harder to work on, but I'm not sure how. Impossible to reach anything and tracing wires is a nightmare. The fairings ?? I run out of swear words when working on those miserable creations.
 

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any chipmunks etc in the area?
 
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Did you remove the battery to charge it ?

Putting the battery in backwards will blow the 30a fuse and I know of no fuses on the negative circuit.

When you parked the bike could the key have been turned to far and the park lights been on ?
 
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You can try to narrow down what you need to look at. Remove all fuses. Ignition off. Put in 30A. If it blows its probably between the battery and the fuse box. The wire continues on to connect to the voltage reg and the ignition switch. Turn on the ignition. If that pops it look after the switch. If it doesn't blow start putting in the other fuses one at a time till it blows. In general though the 10A should blow before the 30A. And the 30A should be on the positive side.
 

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Since you have power to the starter with the ignition off, the start relay contacts must be welded closed. This probably happened the last time you started the bike. If so, your starter would have been engaged while riding. If you have voltage to the starter and it is not trying to turn over, it may have been burnt up. The 30 amp fuse blowing is likely due to shorted internals of the start relay due to excessive current draw of the starter.
 

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The 30 amp fuse blowing is likely due to shorted internals of the start relay due to excessive current draw of the starter.
I suspect Hilo Haole nailed it.

Also, the relay is in the positive leg of the starter wiring. It is possible to blow that 30 amp fuse while jump starting the bike incorrectly with a bad battery (based on personal experience).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hokay, back to square 1. Last night I was tired and it was getting dark. I obviously boo-boo'ed a couple of times. So let's look at it with fresh eyes.

1st - no power to starter when sitting. Not sure what I "checked" last night, but no power there.
2nd - new 30A fuse blew instantly when I plugged it in. That gets expensive, not to mention finding fuses.
3rd - don't crucify me, but I built a pair of jumpers out of #10 wire and plugged them into the 30A fuse
sockets. Touch the ends together & they crackle and get hot very fast. Lots of current draw there. I only held them like that for a second or less.
4th - pulled all the other fuses and made sure ignition was off and key out. Still crackles and gets hot. 5th - Pulled the cap & wires off the top of the relay and it doesn't get hot. Those wires go directly into the wiring harness and I see no bare spots or melted insulation anywhere.

Please keep in mind that it did run fine when I parked it. I'd only run it from head of driveway where it was sitting with a For Sale sign down to parking area - maybe 200 ft, so no high rpm's - barely broke idle. Didn't notice any starter whine at that time and I'm pretty sensitive to such things.
 

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Disconnect the battery and then disconnect the voltage regulator plug that has the red wire in it. Reconnect the starter relay plug you removed and then reconnect the battery. Does it get hot again at the relay or stay cold? The 30 amp fuse is connected to the VR and the ignition switch feed. Just trying to rule out a shorted VR.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Disconnect the battery and then disconnect the voltage regulator plug that has the red wire in it. Reconnect the starter relay plug you removed and then reconnect the battery. Does it get hot again at the relay or stay cold? The 30 amp fuse is connected to the VR and the ignition switch feed. Just trying to rule out a shorted VR.
I'll check it in the morning. Hate to sound ignorant, but not sure which is the VR. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Popping a 30 amp fuse means a short somewhere.

Do you have an after market stuff hooked up to the battery? Like heated grips, lights, power outlets?
No, the only aftermarket stuff I have on it - horn and power outlet/USB charging port - are wired and fused directly from the battery. I've triple checked for correctness. No shorts, no cross wiring.

That short has to be somewhere in the wiring harness under the tank or in the headlight fairing/ignition switch. Looked with a light but don't see anything obvious. As I said, no melted or bare spots.
 
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