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Discussion Starter #1
I just ordered the metal off road type pegs someone posted over on Advrider.

I got a size 13 boot and the shifter is already to close to the peg for me and the new pegs will make it worse i think.

I've got a spool gun and do some alum welding from time to time but am no pro. Anyone tried to weld(extend) the stock shifter? Didn't know if it was pot alum and hard to weld or??

I really don't care what it looks like just want it longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I guess i'm not sure pot alum is a valid term but there is alum you can't(or they say you can't) weld so i was just seeing if anyone had done it to make sure before i ruined mine. :D

thanks, i'll see what i needs when the new foot pegs get here.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Completely weldable, with the right rod and the right welder

I'd using a Miller 180 with a spool gun, .030(4043) wire. Think that will be ok?
My pegs come in today.
 

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Interesting idea, I have run into the same situation with the same pegs. But I'm thinking about cutting the pegs from the mount and reattaching about 3/4" further back. I think the pegs are cast steel and can be welded.


I was looking at the stock pegs the other night and it occurred to me that someone could make a few bucks if the came up with an metal "bear claw" type insert that replaced the rubber. Keeping it the same width as the stock rubber piece so that the shifting would stay the same.
 

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I'd using a Miller 180 with a spool gun, .030(4043) wire. Think that will be ok?
My pegs come in today.
Not the right equipment. You need a heliarc, or tig welder.
 

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Tig welding produces not only a cleaner weld but also has no porosity in the weld, like mig welding aluminum does. Being that the shifter is very thin, keeping porosity out of that area is necessary to keep it from breaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Tig welding produces not only a cleaner weld but also has no porosity in the weld, like mig welding aluminum does. Being that the shifter is very thin, keeping porosity out of that area is necessary to keep it from breaking.

Thank you for the advice. I'll see if i can find me a reputable Tig welder near me.
 

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not to discourage, but have you considerd a new shifter? Doesn't the dr650 shifter fit the Strom? It's about 1-1/2" longer too. Me, I cut it, added a peice of Al and a splint to lengthen.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The 650 uses linkage instead of having a direct shaft mounting shifter like the 1000. So adding a new direct to shaft shifter would give you a reverse shift pattern. Otherwise... if it was a 1000 that would be the best option.

I actually ended up not needing to mess with the shifter at all.

I wanted to avoid doing anything to parts i would need to replace(or explain very well) to a new owner in the future. So i just modifyed my new pegs and got the extra room i needed that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Now that is a man that is focused on performance!!!!!

:mod_lol::mod_lol::mod_lol::mod_lol::mod_lol:


Sorry.....couldn't help it.


:mrgreen::mrgreen::D
 
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