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I am considering upgrading the fork springs with something stiffer and would like to know how hard it is to do this myself. I have done all of the maintenance so far myself (throttle body sync, wheel changes, valve checks, handlebar change, etc.) I consider myself to be good mechanically. Any advise would be appreciated.
 

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basically, pop off the caps, pull the springs, drop new springs in cut new spacer for proper preload, put caps back on. most springs will come with instructions.

contact jay at suspensions by sasquatch for great service and advice on correct springs. http://www.sasquatchrider.com/
 

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I am considering upgrading the fork springs with something stiffer and would like to know how hard it is to do this myself. I have done all of the maintenance so far myself (throttle body sync, wheel changes, valve checks, handlebar change, etc.) I consider myself to be good mechanically. Any advise would be appreciated.
For someone who has done all that it's a piece of cake. Here's a link to our generic instructions for damper rod forks, the cartridge forks on the Vee are only very slightly more complicated.

SonicSprings.com
 

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Do one fork leg at a time.
Move the handlebar out of the way--rag for scratch prevention.
Use a wrench that fits the head of the aluminum cap just right--it'll round off easy with the wrong size wrench or a crescent wrench that isn't tight.
Back off the preload adjusters first.
The cap will pop off when the last thread is unscrewed due to the spring.
Pull out the old spacer plus the washer that serves as a spring base. You might need a wire hook.
Pull out the spring allowing the oil to drain off.
Drop in the new spring, washer, cut-to-size spacer. If you use 1" PVC pipe as a new spacer (works good & easy to work), make a notch in the end for the cotter pin under the cap.
Put the cap on, align the cotter pin with the notch, carefully push down and engage the first thread without stripping the aluminum threads.

If the fork oil hasn't been changed periodically, preceding the spring transplant is a good time. Mine was so gunky that I removed the fork, drained it, flushed it with solvent (I used paint thinner) & pumped it up & down, drained, flushed with light hydraulic oil (I used jack oil--cheap and able to buy just a quart) & pumped it, drain, fill with 500 ml of the desired viscosity fork oil (usually 10 wt), pump to eliminate air. The air pocket at the top can be adjusted by adding more oil. A top quality synthetic fork oil will provide more consistency in damping action between cold winter riding and hot summer riding.

Set the preload, preferably with a buddy's help: http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,1539.0.html
Good idea to check the rear preload while your help is here.
 
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