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I have a new issue that I'd like advice for.

My key was in the locked position and I almost couldn't turn it to off position. Now I will not lock it, but want to on the trips I take.

I'm not sure if I should spray something in there or what to do. It was so stuck that I was afraid of the key breaking off.

Any suggestions what to try before I take it to a shop?
 

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DO NOT use graphite. Graphite will conduct electricity and strange things will start happening on its own.

Maybe try brake cleaner, etc that will evaporate. It my loosen up some misplaced lube already in the switch and get it going again.

Companies like CRC probably make an electric switch lube that could be tried. Although Radio Shack is mostly gone, it sold maintenance products like that.
 

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Here is a photo of the switch off the bike.



The switch and key wafer tumblers are probably fine. That red circle highlights a metal shaft that sticks out in lock position and mates to a hole in the steering head to stop the handlebars from turning. Its probably rusty and bone dry of any lubrication. I don't know if there is enough room to get to it with the switch on the bike but that is the piece you need to hit with WD40 to free it. You might be able to get the flow tube in there while turning the handle bars in various positions. Once you get some lube on it you could move the shaft a little with the key, hit it with more spray, rinse and repeat until it is free but be careful you don't break the key or wedge the lock. Go slow. Taking it to a mechanic will be expensive because they will want to remove the switch (not easy) and replace it with a new one (not cheap). When I did my steering head bearings and had the triple clamps off I was able to pull and rebuild the switch and grease up the mechanism inside that drives the locking shaft out. If you go that route it takes one of those special tamper proof torx bit to remove the ignition switch. Also to get it apart for service you have to drill out the one-way security screws and replace them with standard bolts, I used small allen-head cap screws.
 

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The switches are obviously PsOS. Hard to believe a major motorcycle mfger. like Suzuki would put this POS on one of their products. Christ !! Spend the extra $2.00 and put in a switch that will last .................well...........practically forever like on any other bike.

I thought at one time that this problem was only on my bike and was an aberration. It's not. My problem was solved when some lowlife tried to steal my bike and screwed up the whole ignition switch.

Anyway..............this and other "small" problems and some really big ones ( stator ) that should never happen have soured me on Suzuki. Pretty sure I'm going back to a big boy mfger like Honda.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Now we will have a list of problems with Hondas we have owned. It's been a long time but mine barely generated enough power to keep the battery charged. I wore out the clutch on a CB500. That was back when bikes had kick starters though. There is no perfect bike. Suzuki is a big boy manufacturer. I had three DL650s including 77,000 miles on one with no mechanical problems and that one has gone past 126,000 miles with a second owner. I did install headlight relays but that's not a big deal and my other bikes needed them too. I had charging system problems on a BMW and a Yamaha. My BMW R90S had a cylinder that never got a decent piston ring seal even after it whole assembly was replaced. From reading posts here, it seems like a knee jerk reaction that one thing goes wrong and the writer will never buy that manufacturer's or dealer's whatever 'til the end of time.

Suzuki tied with Honda in this poll. Who Makes the Most Reliable Motorcycle? - Consumer Report
 

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As Joe Friday would say, "Just the facts". In a world full of "spin" it's good to have someone put out the numbers. In forums like this one, people are going to tend to focus / discuss the problems with their machine. It is easy to get an "attitude" the more you read. Thanks for injecting some reality into the conversation. This is assuming that CR isn't some ideological driven organization bought by the JDM manufacturers. Got to respect Peter Drucker.
 

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Fork Lock won't unlock

My issue is with the fork lock, it works right until you try to return the key/lock to the off position.

I have tried everything short of removing the switch assembly. Once the fork lock is engaged it takes a lot of fiddling with the key to get it to unlock.

Anyone else with this issue?
 
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