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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, after flooding the lock on my new-to-me 82k mile '04 Wee with various slippery liquids and still having to jiggle the key to go anywhere, I decided that it was time to dismantle the lock and figure out why it's sticky turning on and nearly impossible to engage the column lock. The key works fine in the fuel cap and seat lock, however.

The "correct" way to fix this would be to replace the ignition lock or the wafers, but this method is free.

Tools: one "security" Torx T-40 bit. I got mine as part of a set for $9 at Harbor Freight. You'll also need a #2 Phillips screwdriver and something that can remove brass (sandpaper, file, Dremel, etc)

Parts: none :hurray:

Time: 30 min, give or take.

First, you need to get the ignition lock off the upper triple clamp. The service manual says to remove the fuel tank first so you can get at the plug on the wiring harness. We're not replacing the switch, so we'll just take it off and work on it in place. Unscrew the two T-40 security screws from the bottom (they've got threadlocker, you'll need a ratchet) and the switch can be brought up and around:



Now, take out those two phillips screws holding the lock together. Take off the top, watch the shutter piece fall out, then lift out the lock cylinder. Here we go:



Hey, look. Brass wafers and a steel key :furious: Small wonder these locks have a habit of being sticky when they get old. A wafer lock with the correct key in it should be a nice smooth cylinder. For some reason they went to the effort and expense to use an eight-pin lock, but they couldn't use steel wafers? (BMW bikes have a six-pin lock with steel guts and the one on my '98 works like new, as does my '98 KLR where they used brass keys) Here's what mine looked like:



Epic fail. I'm surprised I could even get the bike to turn on. Here's what it looks like in pieces:



Here's where you can check for random debris that might be causing your lock not to work right. Mine had none.

Note how each wafer has the hole in a slightly different place to fit the corresponding spot on the key. In theory we should replace these because they're worn and then the lock would work fine. Unfortunately, they're not numbered or marked in any way, so that's easier said than done. We'll mod them instead.

Put the wafers back in the cylinder. They do need to go in the right place, so I hope you kept them in order :fineprint:

What you want to do now is file those protruding wafer tops down so the cylinder is smooth with the key inserted. Making sure the key is fully inserted for the whole process, sand, file or grind the wafers down so the whole assembly is nearly cylindrical. I used a sandpaper cylinder on a Dremel-type tool. It'll look like this when done:



Worth noting is that if you only have one or two wafers that are causing the lock not to work, you could remove the offending wafer and its spring instead.

Without the key, it looks like this now:



Note how these aren't sticking up quite as far as before, but there's still plenty of metal keeping the lock from turning without the key.

Put the cylinder in the lock and play with it to make sure it turns freely. If it doesn't, find where a wafer's still sticking up and fix it.

Put it all back together and enjoy not jiggling your ignition key when it's time to go to work. My column lock works now, and I'm pleasantly surprised to see that Suzuki made it difficult to turn past LOCK to P by mistake. Ask me about push-starting my old KZ750 after leaving the switch in P :headbang:

Q: What if I get a new key cut from the key number?
A: The lock sticks because the brass wafers are worn. The steel key wears very little in comparison, so a new key won't fix the problem, though my less-used key took slightly less fighting than my well-used one. If you get a new key after doing this mod, it will still work--you haven't re-keyed the lock, just added a little bit of slop so the key will operate the badly-worn lock.

Q: Won't this make my bike easier to steal?
A: It does make the lock somewhat easier to pick, bump or use someone else's key in, but how many motorcycles are actually stolen by picking the ignition lock? I also like to park next to shiny Harleys or flashy sportbikes--at least in the USA, no one's going to steal a Strom with bumper stickers and faded Givi luggage when there's a Road King or Gixxer right there for the taking!

Q: Why not replace the lock cylinder?
A: A new lock cylinder is definitely the "correct" way to do it, but then you have to re-key your gas tank and seat lock (difficult to do at home unless you're a locksmith since the wafers don't have markings) or have two keys. FWIW, BMW numbers their wafers so if your ignition is keyed "231212" you can key any other BMW lock to match that one by putting the correct wafers in the cylinder--luggage keyed to the ignition key is a big selling point for ze Germans. If Suzuki wafers were numbered or somehow marked, you could just replace them with new ones of the correct number, but they're not.
 

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fixed ignition switch, thanks

I followed your directions and now my 06 Wee has a fully functioning ignition switch, just like new. The most difficult part was cracking the red locktite on the torx screws.
Thanks again, you saved me a few hundred bucks.
 

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update

while removing the ignition switch both the security torx screws dropped out of sight - nowhere to be seen. :furious: - but wait - found them the next morning after some handlebar rotations left and right . Then lost one again, then found it in the cowling.

Now as for the wear in the lock - what I notice is that yes - the brass wafers stick out - but - if you have the key fully inserted and rock the key up and down (forward and back if it was in the bike frame) - you would see the brass wafers be protruding one way and flush the other.

So its really an accumulation of wear in the keyway, key and brass wafers.

So, if you ROCK (not jiggle) the key then maybe that is all you need to do in order use your key in a "sticky" lock!

I managed to lose one wafer (the worst one), so now its a 7 wafer lock. I ground the 7 wafers down all at once (inside the lock tumbler with key inserted) using the bench grinder; then cleaned up the tumbler with WD40 and compressed air.
 

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Lock cylinder

Q: Should there be a ribbit in every hole in the lock cylinder?

2nd Q: If so will it still allow the bike to turn on but turn on but not all function such as a fuel pump for security reasons?
 

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Q&A

Q: Should there be a ribbit in every hole in the lock cylinder?

not sure what a ribbit is - if you mean wafer - more wafers = more security; the lock itself does not care if a wafer-spring is missing - other than it becomes easier to force the lock


2nd Q: If so will it still allow the bike to turn on but turn on but not all function such as a fuel pump for security reasons?

actually, my lock cylinder now allows the key to be withdrawn in the ON position - which also happened a few times before I modified the lock cylinder. The main thing is that the bike still appears to be locked. The ignition switch assembly is below the lock cylinder, separate and sealed (I presume).
 

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Cheap Parts !!!

Thank you for posting this information.

However, I can't help but comment on how certain parts of the Wee are cheaply made. I had to do this with only 27,425mi on my Wee and I think that is outrageous !!

I guess I'll have to do it again in another 27,425mi ?
<O:p
<O:p
Looking at my spreadsheet of added costs and the work time on various jobs reveals a darker side to motorcycle ownership, but I am sure there are bikes much worse than the Wee.<O:p
 

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Thanks for the info. The problem with these is that all 8 tumblers are all on one side. The spring pressure forces the key crooked. Most cars that I've had ignitions apart have tumblers 180 degrees to one another to spread the load evenly. I guess my bike is now 50% easier to steal. I just removed the last 4 and ground down the remaining 4. Works like a charm and really who picks an ignition lock anyways.
 

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In cars, at least, hanging a bunch of keys on a ring from the ignition key will wear out the lock more quickly than just having a key in the ignition. Could be the same on a bike.
 

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In cars, at least, hanging a bunch of keys on a ring from the ignition key will wear out the lock more quickly than just having a key in the ignition. Could be the same on a bike.
I tell this to customers on a daily basis. They don't listen. Guess they're always right :headbang:
 

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I have a flap of rubber sits across the ignition switch on my bike. Experience with the last suggested most of the problems were caused by water getting in, particularly when parked outside.

A lot less problems with sticky lock on my L2 than my K6 where I didn't do this.

Pete
 

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I have a flap of rubber sits across the ignition switch on my bike. Experience with the last suggested most of the problems were caused by water getting in, particularly when parked outside.

A lot less problems with sticky lock on my L2 than my K6 where I didn't do this.

Pete
I keep a flap over mine, too. I also made one for the seat lock. That's a poor location for it, back there where all the muck gets thrown.
 

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Thanks for sharing I was thinking that my 05 Wee was unsusual.. guess it is a mfgr's defect. I'm going to try this out soon as I'm having a helluva time getting it from OFF to ON but not any other positions. Weird.

Ron
 

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Thanks for this great post. I took apart my ignition last night due to a worsening inability to turn the key on and ultrasonic cleaned it, and found that I had the same drifting wafers at the tip end of the key.

I found that it isn't wear on my wafers, it's wear in the keyway causing the key to be in crooked, letting the tip rise. If I push the key down into parallel with the cylinder, it turns perfectly.

If your cylinder looks like this picture, with the wafers at the tip of the key sticking further up than the one at the handle end of the key, then you have a work keyway, not worn wafers.



If the wafers were worn, then the wafers at the handle end of the key should wear worse because the entire key rubs the wafer at that end every time the key goes in. The wafers at the tip of the key (the ones shown as being "worn") only rubs on 8 - wafer position points on the key, so they should not be as badly worn.

Sanding the wafers will of course still work as described, but the problem isn't actually the wafers, it's the keyway. I think this was explained in another thread, but figured I'd post it here.

I decided to not sand down the wafers and think about option for fixing the keyway. I don't know of any way other than getting a new one, since used cylinders are probably equally worn.
 

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I decided to not sand down the wafers and think about option for fixing the keyway. I don't know of any way other than getting a new one, since used cylinders are probably equally worn.
Would getting a new keyway and using the original wafers work? I don't like the idea of having a 2nd key or sanding the wafers.
 

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Yes. The crux of that is finding a new keyway without having to buy an entirely new ignition from a dealer. If you buy an all new one, then you might as well just transfer the wafers (in order of course) from the old one into the new one, assuming they aren't worn to the point that they cause a problem with a brand new keyway.

If you find a source for the keyway/tumbler, post it up.
 

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This fix and the following thread is a HUGE help! Many thanks to all. I priced a new ignition lock at the dealer - $350!!
 

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Hello, I have a 2012 Glee and this post seems to still be relevant for the next model.
However I did not see HOW the brass wafers were removed. Maybe the lock is slightly different for the 2012-16 years. Also I think the problem with mine might be that the key is somehow not going all the way in.
Any ideas?

OK, An update.
I finally got better light in there and found something blocking the shoulder portion of the key from going all the way in. The wafers are much closer to being lined up now. I am going to try to forgo the removal of the wafers and the grinding for now.

On the plus side there seems to be a drain hole on the bottom of the lock portion so I plan on giving it a shot of WD40 or Liquid Wrench lube somewhat frequently in the winter months.
 
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