[zmanpdx]

I am wanting to boost up my front brakes if possible, now thinking of installing steel braided brake lines. Does anyone have some experience where they noticed improvement in braking after adding steel lines?

Also, any experience with adding new/better brake pads and if that was worth the cost. Thanks.

 

[Lono]

I did both this spring and the difference is very noticeable. Very little effort required on the lever to retard the bike's momentum...

 

[zmanpdx]

steel brake lines

Do you recommend any specific brand of steel brake lines?

 

[DC_Dave]

When I searched this same topic, the cosensus I found was do the pads, not the steel lines.

That's what I did and I'm satisfied with the braking power.

 

[Bad Wolf]

I don't have any before/after experience on the same bike, but my wife has steel braided lines on her BMW F650GS...that thing stops on a dime without much effort at all.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

Do the four piston caliper conversion and don't worry about changing lines. The difference would be hardly noticeable.

HH EBC pads are worth doing and enhances the caliper conversion.

 

[happypuppy]

I have a set of Gafer SS lines for the off season. I like the HH also in the front and I run softer Organics on the back. I have used SS on all my bikes. However I never noticed much diffrence. I did it for the slightly firmer feel and long life.

 

[dustinleaavitt]

I'd say go with the double H pads if your on a budget or whole hog and get the conversion... The total cost for me was $220-ish for the conversion from svracingparts, a set of calipers in good condition, and some HH pads bought online. the whole conversion took maybe 30 minutes... and I worked pretty slow.

 

[dustinleaavitt]

my big question that I've yet to get a good answer for was whether going to fancier rotors makes a appreciable difference.

 

[PeteW]

my big question that I've yet to get a good answer for was whether going to fancier rotors makes a appreciable difference.

Not worth it.
Yes, they are better - but most of the difference is better grip when the rotors are wet. (Oh, and they look kewl )

FWIW: I replaced mine because they were badly worn, not for the extra grip.

If you have a Wee, try and pick up a Vee master cylinder (Ebay ?), probably the biggest gain.

Peter

 

[rjsurfer]

Forget about changing out the brake lines, master cylinder, stock pads or rotors....run don't walk to SV Racing and get the 4 pot adapters and do it right.

Just ask anyone that has made the conversion...don't listen to people who think they fixed the brakes with changing out the lines, rotors and master cylinders.


Ron W.

 

[bassbronco_74]

read around

there are gobs of threads around here about the brakes...full of great information

i am a "newer" owner and am planning on upgrading the brakes myself, so i have read through quite of bit of useful information, also i talked with blair from SVRacing (which was very helpful)...my conclusion that for me and my type of riding and for what i am looking for is just a simple pad upgrade will give me what i am looking for...

thats my 2 cents...

 

[PTRider]

Braided stainless steel-reinforced brake hoses only (possibly) effect the braking feel. Keep in mind that the stock brake hoses have fiber reinforcement--they aren't just rubber tubing.

Stage 1 upgrade -- HH rated pads in front, either Galfer or EBC. Retain the stock hoses, flush the brake fluid, bleed out all the air and see how you like the feel.

Stage 2 upgrade -- Blair's adapters with 4-piston calipers and maybe different master cylinder on the newer Wees, different HH pads, stock hoses, flush, bleed, you'll like the result.

If you aren't satisfied with the feel of the brakes, and they've had the air correctly bled out, now buy the stainless reinforced brake hoses.

If you want more bling, buy the stainless brake hoses with the clear outer cover and buy wavy rotors. (The clear cover is only bling; black EPDM cover offers better long-term sun protection.)

This is how stock brakes hose is made:

BrakeQuip OEM Rubber Brake Hose

 

[mullerjd]

I did the lines and GSXR rotors. I would recommend it to anyone

 

[Appalachian Rider]

My .02 cents worth is that I after 3 years of ownership, I upgraded to Galfer stainless lines and EBC HH pads and am very happy with the results. I did this in 2 steps, first the lines and then the pads. Not much difference with the lines but definitely the EBC HH pads have made a great difference. I don't have to worry about ever replacing the lines again and they look great.... (Did a complete flush of the fluids as well).

 

[dustinleaavitt]

my rotors are completely shot, trying to decide whether to spend 250 on a set of chinese wave rotors on ebay or try to find some used stock ones.

 

[PeteW]

my rotors are completely shot, trying to decide whether to spend 250 on a set of chinese wave rotors on ebay or try to find some used stock ones.

I have a set of OZ sourced wave rotors - which may even not have been made in China .

They work fine, slightly better than OEM in the dry, a lot better in the wet.
The only thing you won't like is the shudder at 0-2kph.

Pete

 

[dustinleaavitt]

haha denial? what was the price? review? link?

 

[dustinleaavitt]

based on my experience I should add one thing... since the gsxr pads are slightly wider, if you have worn rotors.... the stock pads will have worn a groove where they contact the rotor... and in my case when I went to the larger calipers the new pads took forever to break in because they had to wear down considerably where the stock pads had never touched...

 

[PeteW]

haha denial? what was the price? review? link?

Ebay, S3 performance. Around $140AU each for the fronts, 80 for the rear.

I had a problem with the fronts, the stock rotors were mounted with 8mm bolts with a 10mm shoulder. The discs were drilled for 8mm bolts. I had a friend with a good workshop and we just drilled them out to 10mm. Not something you could do with a beer crate and a hand drill, but any good machine shop would do it with ease.

I've only just had them on long enough for the pads to bed in. At least as good in the dry as the original new discs , a lot better in the wet. No downside other than the shudder at near 0 speed - that's not bad, but it's noticeable. As someone else commented, the loss of >1k unsprung weight is noticeable as well, the bike steers a bit better as well.

Don't forget to budget for new pads as well and remember new pads + new discs take forever to bed in fully.

Pete