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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After riding for a month (yes only a month of experience under the belt, and loving every minute of it). I have had 99% good driving experience. Last week my wife and I were riding to my brother-in-laws place and my wife got cut off by what it looked like a guy wanting to drive faster and answer us phone at the same time. (My wife rides first and I follow her) Luckily she is smarter and faster than this idiot and rode next to him in the outer lane position so she had time to hit the brake, use the horn and swerve in the shoulder and be ok. But I digest...:yesnod:

To be heard more I was looking at the Stebel Nautilus Compact Dual-Tone 12-Volt Motorcycle Air Horn for both my wife and me. My wife has a 2011 S40 and I have a 2011 Wee (stock other than the Givi crash bars). Other than the horn itself what else will I need to mount and use the horn on both bikes?

UPDATE: (let me know if this is all I need/DO need)

Looks lilke for the Wee I need: (from TwistedThrottle)
Stebel Nautilus horn = 39.99
Stebel mounting kit = 17.50
Plug-N-Play wiring kit - 29.99

For the S40:
Stebel Nautilus horn = 39.99
Amount ? (Looks like the one the horn comes with will work) Yes/No
Plug-N-Play wiring kit - 29.99
 

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I use an Eastern Beaver fuse block (switched and unswitched) for all the acc. I made the wiring setup myself-easy, just a little soldering.
I mounted it as suggested by Greywolf under the right cowling. Ian, Iowa
 

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I think you'll be shocked as to how unbelievably loud these Stebel horns are when you honk em! They're incredible!

I'd go with Pat Walsh Designs - he has a high quality full-kit [horn, wiring, relay, aluminum mount, etc] that was designed specifically for the Strom. The aluminum bracket is really a well thought out piece - simple and strong. Pat Walsh Designs Stebel Horn Kit for V-Strom DL650


Here's mine, tucked in nicely.

 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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What is needed depends on your knowledge level and ability to make things. All that is needed electrically is wire and connectors. A kit just has the wires cut to length and the connectors applied. I used a Home Depot pipe grounding clamp from the electrical section and a trimmed aluminum angle to mount my horn. Bar stock would work fine.

 

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I used the mount from Twisted Throttle and the Single horn relay kit from Eastern Beaver and it was all pretty easy (except for finding the stock horn - behind the radiator in case you're wondering).





 

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Here's what I did...

I purchased the horn and mount bracket from TT. I also used a few feet of 14 gauge red and black power cord, some tie-wraps, and some crimp-type unions, spades, and eye connectors. Decent speaker wire of appropriate gauge could also be used. I also purchased a covered fuse holder from FLAPS. The eastern beaver harness is a nice way to go, but I'm cheap (er, cost-concsious).

Mount the horn with the TT bracket in the left side of the cowling per the instructions. This leaves the horn funnels pointing downwards and the electrical terminals on the bottom which helps protect from rain.

Find the OEM horn behind the left side of the radiator and remove. The red relay that comes with the horn mounts nicely here with whatever hardware you have spare. Split the black OEM connector to the horn into two individual covered spade connectors and connect to the control pair of terminals on the relay. Pressing the horn button should activate the relay.

Crimp a union between the red wire (or which ever wire you designate as the power wire) and the fuse holder. Crimp an eye connector to the other end of the fuse holder and attach to the positive battery terminal under the red boot. (This follows the general rule of putting the fuse as close to the power source as possible). Crimp another eye connector to the black wire (or which ever wire you designate as the ground wire) and connect to the ground block. If you are going to connect multiple electrical accessories, an expansion ground block would work well here.

Route the power wire to the relay and create a service loop with adequate spare wire to allow for stress relief. Separate the pair of wires and cut and strip the red wire near the relay. Crimp two spade connectors and connect to the switched pair of terminals on the relay. It is not necessary to cut the black wire here so just let it remain intact.

Continue to route the power wire to the horn and crimp a spade connector to each wire. Connect the spades to the horn observing polarity.

Clean up the installation with tie-wraps where necessary.

BOY IS THIS THING LOUD!!!!

For fun, youtube stebel horn for a demo.

Cheers, -Kevin


The ground wire is under the white/clear plastic cover.


Both red wires are the switched set and the black connectors which are not easily visible are the control set.

 

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I tried mounting myu horn under the seat, kinda worked for a while, but the compressing of the suspension when riding over bumps would hit the horn. I didn't want to remove my rairing, Gary at PWD had another idea and I really like it.



 
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