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Discussion Starter #1
It looks like it may be a long while before Pat Walsh Designs comes up with a revamped mount. Does anybody out there know who else makes brackets to mount my stebel in my Vstrom?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Your local home improvement store is a good place. A pipe grounding clamp and a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum bar or trimmed angle makes a great mount.

 

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It looks like it may be a long while before Pat Walsh Designs comes up with a revamped mount. Does anybody out there know who else makes brackets to mount my stebel in my Vstrom?
I have a spare bracket, from Pat Walsh. Just not the bolts I think. But I could get them. The Bracket cost 15.00, was never usedI put my horn somewhere else and had to make my own bracket. Send me a PM if your interested, I'll be home for another day, then I'm gone until monday next week.
 

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I used a car battery clamp bracket from Walmart. Had to grind off the bolt that was integrated into the bracket, and bend it a bit, but worked fine.

Around $2, IIRC. The diameter of a car battery terminal is apparently pretty close to that of the metal tube inside the Strom fairing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Awesome, I got the horn mounted and all I have to do is connect the wiring. My next question is, where the Heeeeeeeeeeeeeck :furious: is the stock horn located? I was told it was mounted behind the upper left radiator. All I see is a cooling fan inside a shroud. I even removed the right side fairing half off and still no horn. Do you have to remove the fuel tank to access it? I appreciated the tips on mounting!
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The fan is on one side and the horn on the other. Do put a relay in. It's convenient to replace the stock horn with the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Is the horn inside the shroud or behind it? Will I need to remove the right side fairing completely instead of halfway? When I had the right side fairing halfway off, even with a flashlight I couldn't locate it. The stock horn is a bronze color right? By the way, I mounted the stebel on the left side. I thought the coolant tank on the right side would be in the way.

I purchased a wiring harness and it has a relay on it. It's comes already connected to the relay where all I have to do is connect the neg and pos wires on the stebel and connect the other wire to the wire that powers the stock horn. The other end I connect to the neg and pos on the battery. I'll have to mount the relay near the battery since that's how they manufactured it. It has great insulation.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The horn is black. It's below the shroud. The bracket it's on is attached to the radiator. You need access to work on it so take the plastic off. See the section on removing the gas tank if you've never had the plastic off before.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Last question, there are two wires that connect to the stock horn. Does it matter which wire I use or which one do I disconnect from the stock horn to connect to the wire on the harness.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The stock horn wires go to terminals 85 and 86 on the relay. Which wire on which terminal doesn't matter. 87 goes to the battery positive terminal with an inline fuse near the battery. Alternately, it can go to a positive fuse block terminal. 30 on the relay goes to the horn positive terminal. The horn's negative terminal goes to the negative terminal on the battery or fuse block.
 

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I split my Stebel horn, and made a simple bracket to mount the plastic trumpet on the right side radiator bolt. I mounted the air compressor inside the cowling, with a grounding clamp after reading posts about this. Mounting the trumpet outside the cowling and aimed forward ensures that it scares other drivers more than it scares yourself when you use it.
When I get a chance tomorrow or the next day, I will take some photos.
The horn parts were connected with Tygon 2, ¼” ID and 3/8” OD fuel line- this is just press fitted onto the compressor, and into the trumpet. This is my second split installation of a Stebel horn using the Tygon 2, and the first one has lasted three years and 10000 miles without problems.
This current installation on my new Wee lasted 7500 miles and 6 months so far with no problems. I have a PDF file describing the way I split the horn, and mounted it on my other bike with photos. If you are interested, PM me your email, and I will send it.
 

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split horn installation

I finally got a camera and some time to take photos. I did not have a camera when I installed this. Sorry for the poor photos.
I split my horn by hitting the compressor sharply with my hand to break it free of the plastic. Then, I cut the plastic off that had surrounded the compressor. The compressor is mounted inside the cowling, on the right side, using a grounding clamp. The bike's tubing is wrapped with electrical tape to protect it. I used Tygon 2 fuel line to connect the trumpet, and used a wire tie to keep the fuel line behind the compressor and out of the way. The tubing is just press fit onto the compressor, and into the trumpet. It is a very tight fit, and does not come loose.


The trumpet section is mounted here using pieces of mending plate from ACE hardware store. I used serrated lock washers under the radiator bolt so it would not move. The plastic trumpet is very light. The mending plate is easy to bend.



The bracket was made by making a sandwich of rubber sheeting and the mending plates, pop riveted together with washers under the pop rivets. The trumpet is concave at this point so the washers and pop rivet heads fit just right. The bracket is held tight against the horn by using two U-bolts, which were cut to make two J-bolts. The "hooks" of the bolts go around the plastic under the round sections on the front and back of the trumpet, and the nuts and ends of the J-bolts can be seen on the right. After 7500 miles, this has not budged a bit.


I used a heavy plastic lid from some spice bottle (Japanese fish stock) which fit perfectly over the bottom of the compressor, to seal it from moisture. My last horn installation used a small spray paint can lid.
It is put on with silicone, and then electrical tape finished the seal, with the wires coming out the hole and using shrink wrap on them.


A view from the side- it has a lot of room inside the SWmotech bars.


View from a few feet away. The pinkish color of the rubber can be seen above the header pipe.


The horn is really not noticeable on the bike. At gas stops I have had many people ask me what my storage tube is, but have never had anyone ask or point out the air horn trumpet.
It is angled down to prevent water from staying inside it. Another bike I own has had the same kind of split installation, and it has lasted three years and has been in heavy rain.
The split installation allows a few things which I like- the trumpet of the horn is outside the cowling, and pointed to the front of the bike for maximum effect. And, the compressor, inside the cowling, is very protected from weather. There is no delay whatsoever using the tubing.
I left the stock horn in place, and connected the stock horn wires to the supplied Stebel relay with spade connectors, and in a location that I can easily reach. The relay is located close to the battery under the seat. That way, if the Stebel ever fails, I can just unwrap this connection, pull apart the stock spade connectors from my wires to the relay, and plug the stock connectors onto the stock horn to keep me going.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, I had to move the mount to the right side due to a wire on the wiring harness being too short to plug into the stock horn wire. Everything worked first time and had fun buzzing around testing it out. It sure is loud!:jawdrop: Everybody on this thread sure came up with good pics and suggestions on what I need to do. keep up the good work. I'm still going to wait and see what Pat Walsh comes up with.
 

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Pipe Grounding Clamp

Hi GW-- What size of grounding clamp did you use? I am meeting up with some friends tomorrow to do the install, but would like to purchase the parts needed prior to install on Saturday. This is my first electrical upgrade to the bike, and we are planning on installing the Eastern Beaver fuse box, gps, new horn, and possibly some more power to a RichlandRick shelf.

Thanks!
 

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The horn is black. It's below the shroud. The bracket it's on is attached to the radiator. You need access to work on it so take the plastic off. See the section on removing the gas tank if you've never had the plastic off before.
grrrr crap. I didn't need to take the time to fab up my own bracket so I bought one from twistedthrottle. Took forever for them to make it, so in the meantime I put the fairings back on (after riding around without them for 3 months). I was hoping to slap the horn on in 10 or 15 minutes, not sure I have the hour+ to deal with taking the fairings off around the crash bars, removing the tank, etc etc, just to take a piece of plastic off the old horn.

Too many other things to do in the next two weeks to put so much effort into just replacing a horn. I'm hoping I can somehow at least disconnect the old wires on the factory horn without disassembling everything again.
 
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