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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am installing the Stebel horn with the TT wiring kit. I understand everything except where to run the ground. TT suggests running directly to the battery and not use a fuse box. I'm ok with that but they are suggesting run the ground to the engine. Its a very short ground wire 6-8" so I would need to splice a wire to extend it to the neg on the battery. Prior threads suggest never use a frame bolt for a variety of reasons. Any suggestions?
 

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If you can't relocate things to make it reach, then yes extend that wire to the battery. Grounding on an alloy frame is not a good idea. If you can solder and shrinkwrap the connection, that's ideal. Otherwise posi-locks make it really easy to splice with a good solid connection.
 

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The engine is not the frame. The large negative battery cable grounds to the engine to run the starter motor. Small periods of use as with the horn and the starter motor won't hurt anything. The dissimilar metals contact corrosion problem caused by steel and aluminum frame members passing current through their connections as long as the ignition is on is not the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm told the engine is itself grounded and therefore an excellent location to ground accessories. I prefer to use the battery terminal. I'm just passing along information I was given. As stated, the horn should not be connected to a fuse box because it's draw when needed could exceed the fuse box's capacity if you've got a lot of accessories drawer power at the same time. ie: heated clothing, grips, and auxiliary lights all on simultaneously.
 

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Care does need to be taken if connecting a high draw item to a fuse box. The PC-8 is good for outputs of 15A continuous or 20A momentary. It has two input circuits, switched and unswitched. I have my Stebel on the unswitched side along with a GPS. The other high draw items are on the switched circuit so neither side taxes its input fuse. Connecting to the battery insures a problem free hookup with no extra thought involved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I installed the Stebel directly to the PC-8 unswitched terminal, #8. There's a 30A inline fuse to the positive. Is a 15A in the fuse box sufficient? Also, the horn only works when the key is on. I thought #7 and 8 were unswitched and I'm in the f8 terminal. Not quite sure about this.
 

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I installed the Stebel directly to the PC-8 unswitched terminal, #8. There's a 30A inline fuse to the positive. Is a 15A in the fuse box sufficient? Also, the horn only works when the key is on. I thought #7 and 8 were unswitched and I'm in the f8 terminal. Not quite sure about this.
A 15A will probably work. The Stebel draws 13A. The convention is to fuse so the load is no more than 80% of the fuse rating though so a 15A is marginal. The initial draw on a Stebel has occasionally blown 15A fuses so a 20A is more appropriate. Although the horn is connected to a live source, the horn relay is wired to the stock horn leads. The relay will not function with the ignition off so the horn won't blow.
 

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I installed the Stebel directly to the PC-8 unswitched terminal, #8. ... Also, the horn only works when the key is on. I thought #7 and 8 were unswitched and I'm in the f8 terminal.
Your Stebel is activated by a relay whose switched circuit is the old horn circuit. That horn circuit is unpowered when the vehicle is off; thus your horn only works when the vehicle is off.

Unless, of course, your relay fails and sticks closed, which will be exciting. :)

There's a 30A inline fuse to the positive. Is a 15A in the fuse box sufficient?
I found that 15A was the right size for a Stebel. 10A is too small; the fuse will pop after awhile.

ed.: I see that GW has heard of Stebels blowing 15A fuses, so YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I understand. So, in order to save the limited 2 terminals for unswitched accessories, would it be ok to use a switched terminal being the horn won't work unles the bike is on?
 

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I understand. So, in order to save the limited 2 terminals for unswitched accessories, would it be ok to use a switched terminal being the horn won't work unles the bike is on?
It depends on what other loads are on the switched terminals. If you run heated gear and headlight relay connections for example, adding the horn to the load could blow the 30A fuse feeding the switched terminals. I run these loads for example so put the horn on the unswitched side. If everything is on full, just those loads could blow the fuse.

1.5A for heated socks
7A for heated liner
2.5A for heated gloves
2.5A for heated grips
8.5A for stock headlights
13A for horn

Yes, all those loads totaling 35A are never on full at the same time as running the heated gear at at much more than half power requires turning off one headlight to keep the battery from draining. However, the horn can have an initial draw big enough to occasionally blow a 15A fuse and I don't want to set up a system that can blow a 30A fuse if the heat controls can be adjusted to do just that. Besides, the only device I have that I want to be able to run unswitched is the GPS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm running a similar draw except I'll be adding the Denali 2 lights where you have the heated socks I'm not quite sure of my total draw. I've been researching voltmeters/volt indicators and haven't decided which way to go yet. I'd like to mount as many things to a Rick's shelf so I was leaning toward just an LED volt indicator. They are accurate and take up 1/4" mounting space. Nanything with red numbers ill be staring at instead of watching tye road :yikes:My Strom is beginning to look like the space shuttle with all the switches and lights.
 
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