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Helping my friend out with his 2007 DL1000 charging issue. Some initial confusion which i have narrowed down so looking for any advice.

No charging at all at the battery so figured it was standard issue magnet migration. Pop off the cover. and nope, magnets are perfect. So perfect indeed that we decided not to do pre emptive JB Weld. There's substantial amount of the old glue between magnets and I don't want to a) JB weld over it for fear of it coming loose. and b) start picking off good glue for fear of dislodging something that looks well brand new. So, for now, we'll leave well enough alone. And yes I know the advice you'll all give.

Stator has one burnt leg. Shows 0.2 ohms across all three legs bu the ground test is iffy, the numbers bouncing around faster than faster a meth head bouncing his head off the wall. So burnt wiring and iffy ground sounds like stator issue.

Off with the left side cover and disconnect the stator from the RR. Noticed that wow connector is big and higher quality than i expected. Indeed so big cannot be routed out through the framer. Just too tight for such a big connector. Jesus, do we have to take crap off the bike just to route the wire. And that's when io noticed the stator wires were all yellow and had shrink wrap where there should be one.

Sure enough someone has already put an SH775BA RR on. Complete with upgraded connectors and thicker wiring. Hey the wiring going to the battery is huge. I am 99 per cent sure it's a roadster cycle package. Connectors look the same and there's even the RR mounting bracket Roadster sells.

Problem is that according to the Roadster Cycle site, thee SH775 cannot be tested using a multimeter. needs some sort of bench test to do so. So my questions are:

1) Has anyone who has ever upgraded to an SH775 — or any of the newer versions _ ever burnt one out? In other words, what are chances of failure
2) Is it really impossible to test an SH775 with a multimeter like jack at roadster says or does anyone know a test?
3) What does anyone think of Custom Rewind in Birmingham. I do not trust Ricks or Electrosport but Custom seems to have some positive reviews. It makes not sense to buy a new for CAD $400 and then snip off the connector brand new so unless the the SH775 is toast — which then makes it feasible to revert back to all stock suzuki hardware cause you need both — a rewind seems to make the most sense.

If any one has an opinion about the three questions above appreciated.

David
 

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Helping my friend out with his 2007 DL1000 charging issue. Some initial confusion which i have narrowed down so looking for any advice.

No charging at all at the battery so figured it was standard issue magnet migration. Pop off the cover. and nope, magnets are perfect. So perfect indeed that we decided not to do pre emptive JB Weld. There's substantial amount of the old glue between magnets and I don't want to a) JB weld over it for fear of it coming loose. and b) start picking off good glue for fear of dislodging something that looks well brand new. So, for now, we'll leave well enough alone. And yes I know the advice you'll all give.

Stator has one burnt leg. Shows 0.2 ohms across all three legs bu the ground test is iffy, the numbers bouncing around faster than faster a meth head bouncing his head off the wall. So burnt wiring and iffy ground sounds like stator issue.

Off with the left side cover and disconnect the stator from the RR. Noticed that wow connector is big and higher quality than i expected. Indeed so big cannot be routed out through the framer. Just too tight for such a big connector. Jesus, do we have to take crap off the bike just to route the wire. And that's when io noticed the stator wires were all yellow and had shrink wrap where there should be one.

Sure enough someone has already put an SH775BA RR on. Complete with upgraded connectors and thicker wiring. Hey the wiring going to the battery is huge. I am 99 per cent sure it's a roadster cycle package. Connectors look the same and there's even the RR mounting bracket Roadster sells.

Problem is that according to the Roadster Cycle site, thee SH775 cannot be tested using a multimeter. needs some sort of bench test to do so. So my questions are:

1) Has anyone who has ever upgraded to an SH775 — or any of the newer versions _ ever burnt one out? In other words, what are chances of failure
2) Is it really impossible to test an SH775 with a multimeter like jack at roadster says or does anyone know a test?
3) What does anyone think of Custom Rewind in Birmingham. I do not trust Ricks or Electrosport but Custom seems to have some positive reviews. It makes not sense to buy a new for CAD $400 and then snip off the connector brand new so unless the the SH775 is toast — which then makes it feasible to revert back to all stock suzuki hardware cause you need both — a rewind seems to make the most sense.

If any one has an opinion about the three questions above appreciated.

David
I have a 650 and not a 1000 and I have an SH847 not SH775, but I went with a rewinder strongly endorsed by three local motorcycle shops [edit: not "cops!"]. It worked perfectly until it stopped charging again. And looked like this. So I bought an OEM stator and cut the plug. Perfect ever since.

281469
 

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Greetings,

Maybe I can help with your question number 2.

The standard method to test/measure insulation resistance is with an insulation tester. They are a little pricey so maybe you can ask around for who has one. Every motor re-wind shop should have one, as should every electrician.

I took a picture of mine, maybe give you an idea of what it is.
281471



As you can see, the choice of test voltages are 250, 500 or 1000. With matching limits on the available resistance range. The M ohm is meg ohm, million ohm.

Testing resistance on a new stator, phase to ground should result in an indeterminately high resistance. I suspect this will not be the case with yours, sounds like you are onto something with your multimeter test.

With the higher voltage test (your multimeter probably tests with 2.5 volts), the electrical leaks are exposed. To be really sure you can damp the windings with some light water spray. Nothing can hide from that. So is also a very handy test for finding wiring faults.

The low ohms test option is also courtesy of the higher test voltages. This is very helpful for conclusive testing of ground connections.

But, the test voltage will fry voltage sensitive items.
If testing on the bike:
Do not use it on anything other than wiring looms that have been completely disconnected from everything else, and the stator that has been disconnected from the rr. To help guard against the accidents, I would also disconnect the battery and unplug the ecu and abs controller (if fitted), and the instrument cluster. Very quick to disconnect these items, and very expensive to replace.

hope this helps
 

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Disconnect the stator and test the output. If it's there and within spec, then the stator is good. Connect the stator to the RR. If the RR output is wrong , then the RR is bad. It's pretty simple and can be done with a $10 multimeter. There are many motorcycle charging system troubleshooting procedures all over the internet.
 

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FWIW, over on the vintage Suzuki forum the SH775 is a very popular upgrade, and not one failure has ever been documented. There's a member who makes a little beer money by buying and testing/authenticating used regulators on fleaBay.

He's never found a bad one; even when miswired badly (I swear, some people's brains shut completely off n the presence of wires), they don't seem to take damage.

In other words, these regulators are incredibly robust; if there's a failure, it's somewhere else. The usual sequence is crappy connectors corrode, develop resistance, overheat, and nuke the stator, and of course magnet migration is a possibility.

Suzuki's shoddy electrical design habits are a decades-old tradition. The V-Strom uses the exact same type of system to this day that it used on the GS series in the 1970s, and the problems and solutions are exactly the same. They've added a new wrinkle with the magic migrating magnets but they've never really addressed the core of the problem, crappy undersized unsealed connectors.

To Suzuki's credit, they finally mostly stopped using bullet connectors sometime in the '90s, and I believe the very latest V-Strom models use the SH847 series regulator, the SH775's bigger brother.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Chicken. Thanks. However trying to do a diode type test on the SH, not a resistance test on the stator.
BW, thanks for that gives me confidence considering i don't know if I can test the SH775
Thanks
 

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Over on the vintage forum, diode tests of switching regulators like the SH775 using the meters most people have on hand don't tell you anything useful.

There have been actual electrical engineers arguing arcana on these things for years over there, but basically you need specialized equipment to bench test them. Which isn't worth the trouble; no one's seen a bad one yet.

The only way for ordinary mortals to test an SH775 is to install it. Wire it up, run the engine with a known good stator and wiring and see if it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I talked to jack at roadster cycle and he confirms that. Plus, like you said, he's virtually sure the rr isn't going to be broken.
 

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However trying to do a diode type test on the SH, not a resistance test on the stator.
So you are. I'm claiming age related brain failure.

bu the ground test is iffy, the numbers bouncing around faster than faster a meth head bouncing his head off the wall.
An auto ranging meter will do that if there is not a good consistent signal. Which there easily will not be with the limp voltages employed by a m/meter. Set/select the range to the highest possible ohm value. Auto range is probably best avoided in general. Can be very easy to misread things like resistance.

If the case and stator is out of the bike, I will still recommend you take it somewhere for the insulation test. Should give solid results, remove the doubt. It is a standard test to determine the health of the windings in motors. The reduction in resistance is monitored and this is used to decide when a motor is to be taken out of service for a re-wind. Planned maintenance. I have decided to put it on my annual service list.

I have wondered myself about testing the rr's. Would be a lot easier if the rectifier was seperate from the regulator. Many years ago I had a GS850G that required regular stator changes, and now with the benefit of hindsight I wonder if a (rectifier) diode had gone open circuit effectively knocking out a phase. I suspect the resultant imbalance on the stator would cause excessive heat in the windings.
 

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I went down almost the same path a few years ago.

Didn't know I had a problem until my bike wouldn't start after getting gas. That was before I had any means of voltage monitoring.

I did have a battery tender, and had noticed that it was almost always having to charge the battery, even after long rides.

Investigated, found migrated magnets and burned stator. Replaced/fixed all at the same time: magnets JB Weld-ed back in place, new Suzuki stator, new SH847 R/R via Roadstercycle kit, Signal Dynamics voltage monitor LED around the same time.

Several months later, noticed declining charge ability. I could sit at idle and be in discharge, no high-draw accessories at that time (heated gear etc.).

Opened 'er up after it got worse. Guess what, burned stator again.

Had the stator rewound by Custom Rewind in Birmingham.

That last was over 3 years and around 30k miles ago. Zero charging problems since.

FWIW.
 

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I wish you luck. Cross-border shipping has been stupidly slow and unreliable for almost a year.

If Custom Rewind ever goes out of business and I need a rewind, I'll take a stab at doing it myself. Suzuki factory stators are junk and I'm not wasting my money on one again.
 

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CR's turnaround is usually pretty fast. Unfortunately there's a good chance USPS will sit on your shipment for at least a month, claiming it is "in customs."

You may have better results with UPS etc. but I would imagine it will cost a lot.
 

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Following your thread. Have the stator out of my '85 Gold Wing Limited Edition rated at 500 watts that failed. Installed the external alternator mod instead of replacing the stator. Would like to revert back to original condition as this size of stator is more than sufficient for the electrical needs. Interested in your results. Cheers
 
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CR's turnaround is usually pretty fast. Unfortunately there's a good chance USPS will sit on your shipment for at least a month, claiming it is "in customs."

You may have better results with UPS etc. but I would imagine it will cost a lot.
FWIW, I bought a couple of ABS sensors from Rock Auto a couple of weeks ago. I received them here in Centreville, NS in 48 hours by FedEx.
 
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