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I haven't had a chance yet to pull off my cover and check the magnets, maybe today after work... but as for torqueing the rotor center bolt, I was thinking that a person could put it into 3rd? gear or so, and have someone else hold the rear brake. Which should hold things nice and tight. OR option 2 if they have an impact gun, get a torque stick of the appropriate torque and have at 'er.

I really did not like the idea of putting 115ft lb of static torque through everything when the engineering was all based on a motor that puts out I think 55ft lb of rotational torque. It seems like a bad idea in my books.

I made something up from a 2x2 aluminum square stock, didnt take all that long and gave me peace of mind.
 

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Got my rebuilt magnet/flywheel assembly installed and tested now, just under 90v at 5000 rpm
Not bad since I had to JB one of the magnets that was broken in two back together :)
Happy with that but wondering about balance...

Did you guys worry about balancing the flywheel after adding the mass of the JB weld?
 

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I really did not like the idea of putting 115ft lb of static torque through everything when the engineering was all based on a motor that puts out I think 55ft lb of rotational torque. It seems like a bad idea in my books.




I see your point. Might have to build a similar tool. Got my cover off today and NEED to break out the JB Weld Also was a little concerned about the windings. Notably the one where the screwdriver handle is... until I removed it from the cover and saw that it was due to the way the wires are attached. Although as I look at the picture the few that are clockwise / to the left of the screwdriver seem a bit darker than the rest.
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Does anyone know the thread size and pitch of the bolt/tool to pull the rotor. I think it is 21 x 1.5 mm?
 

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I've had my KLV 1000 magnets JB Weld -ed in place for a couple of years now. One of the problems is the epoxy tries to "migrate" over the magnets due to the steel content. I used masking tape on the magnets and suitably sized lengths of clear plastic flexible tubing over the joint. When the epoxy had set firm, but not hard, I removed the plastic and masking tape. The tubing left a nice concave filling as can be seen in the photo.
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Nice.

I haven't had any JB Weld migration after 2+ years (haven't opened up the stator casing since then), fwiw. Hard to see how it would do that, since it's cured hard as a rock.

I used a lot less JB Weld though. Just small fillets at the bases of the magnets. Didn't try to fill the gaps.
 

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Nice.

I haven't had any JB Weld migration after 2+ years (haven't opened up the stator casing since then), fwiw. Hard to see how it would do that, since it's cured hard as a rock.

I used a lot less JB Weld though. Just small fillets at the bases of the magnets. Didn't try to fill the gaps.
I meant that the epoxy migrates when being applied, and still wet, due to the steel content in the epoxy being drawn by the magnetic force. Once set, it's not a problem.
 
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