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Farkle Purchasing System
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75V AC @ 5000 rpm is the minimum. A new Suzi stator will produce something like 90VAC per phase IIRC. My stator, which was rebuilt by Custom Rewind, makes about 97-100VAC per phase at 5k rpm. Ref: K6 DL1000 shop manual, page 7-9 ("Electrical System").
 

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Hope I'm posting to the whole group. According to my manual the "Generator no-load performance test" is More than 75 v at 5 000 r/min (When engine is cold). Does anyone know if the voltage should remain the same with engine warm to hot, as the voltage at the battery can drop to below 11 volts when hot, yet when I shut off the bike will then read battery voltage of 12 plus volts.. I am suspecting the stator and or migrating magnets. Also the diagram of the R/R is different than what is on my K6. I have 2 connectors one has 3 Black wires, they ohm out as the stator. the 2nd connector has 4 wires 2 bk/r, and 2 bk/w... I want to rule out the R/R before I pull the cover off of the engine.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Right, I'm not 100% sure about the hot vs not quite hot distinction.

I see no difference in voltage at the battery terminals with a hot engine vs one that is just starting to warm up. If you're seeing declining regulator output as the engine heats up, my hunch is you have a bad stator.

Unfortunately, I'm not aware of any way to really test the R/R itself at home. I could do it with the proper laboratory type power supply, but this isn't something most of us have in our garages.

As for the wire colors, it's possible there were some color coding changes from the K6 to the K7. I'll check my service manual when I get a chance. It has electrical schematics for several Vee model years (up to 2008 IIRC).
 

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Hope I'm posting to the whole group. According to my manual the "Generator no-load performance test" is More than 75 v at 5 000 r/min (When engine is cold). Does anyone know if the voltage should remain the same with engine warm to hot, as the voltage at the battery can drop to below 11 volts when hot, yet when I shut off the bike will then read battery voltage of 12 plus volts.. I am suspecting the stator and or migrating magnets. Also the diagram of the R/R is different than what is on my K6. I have 2 connectors one has 3 Black wires, they ohm out as the stator. the 2nd connector has 4 wires 2 bk/r, and 2 bk/w... I want to rule out the R/R before I pull the cover off of the engine.
Maybe you're looking at an earlier model diagram. They were different. If you're having charging issues, you'd be wise to look at the magnets regardless. They will migrate eventually and, if they haven't yet, now is the time to JB Weld them in place.
269553
 

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Thanks for the schematic on the test procedure for the R/R. I must have a really messed up bike, cuz the r/r and connectors look exactly like the images in your posting... but they are most definitely on the left side of the bike. I will check them out later. But I am really now suspecting the stator and magnets. I was having trouble getting a good voltage reading while testing the stator, and by the time I realized that I was trying to test it on DC V, the bike was already getting pretty warm... and I was only getting about 65-69 volts... will re-test again once it cools off
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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That page above may be from the DL650 service manual. The R/R is definitely on the left side on first-gen DL1000s, and is not normally visible as it is under the left side tail fairing (just below seat).

If you are measuring AC voltage off the stator phases and seeing a decline as the engine warms, that's further evidence your stator is bad.

Sorry, but signs point to needing to open the left engine cover for a stator and rotor inspection. And, most likely, sending your stator off to Custom Rewind for rebuilding.
 

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Or whatever equivalent to Custom Rewind you have available. I just realized you're in Canada and I'm sure it would be a huge and expensive hassle to ship across the border.
 

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The R/R, stator, and all connectors are on the left of the bike. That schematic just shows you how to test the R/R with that pin configuration.

In testing the stator, if you have one leg that tests differently than the rest, it is the stator that is your problem. If all legs test low, my guess is magnet migration. If your stator fails either of those tests, don't bother even looking at the R/R; it's not the problem.
 

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After today's testing, my R/R tests out good, but... with the engine cold , and at 5k rpm, the stator output on all 3 legs is roughly 74-76 volts AC. which is bare minimum for the specs. so the next step is to pull the cover and check out the magnets. Hope they have only migrated, and nut bust up too badly. Thoughts about doing the Werks parts Idle hammer tamer when replacing the cover.
 

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It's down to personal taste. I decided that the idle hammer fix was too much money for too little benefit. I don't really even hear the idle hammer, since I almost always ride with earplugs.
 

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About to put my flywheel back on my 2006, I dont have the Special tool 09930-44530 so I have to DIY something to hold the flywheel...

Any recomendations for a DIY procedure? also what is the touque on that bolt? I read somewhere 140nm but not sure.

Thanx
 

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87 lb-ft 120Nm. Cannot help with the special tool but it will need to be strong to resist that much torque.
A large ring spanner with pins attached?
I might have suggested some 90 degree circlip pliers but I doubt that you could hold them.
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87 lb-ft 120Nm. Cannot help with the special tool but it will need to be strong to resist that much torque.
A large ring spanner with pins attached?
I might have suggested some 90 degree circlip pliers but I doubt that you could hold them. View attachment 269612
Thanx much for the info, the images on that dont look like mine tho? I have no chain behind the starter driven gear...
I imagine the specs are all the same tho :)
maybe that is a 650 and mine is a Dl1000?
 

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Here's a shot from the dl1000 manual...

269613
 
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Most people agree that a lot of the torque values stated in the manual are too high, so you might want to research that.
 
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Most people agree that a lot of the torque values stated in the manual are too high, so you might want to research that.
I don't think that bolt will strip easily. One thing you could use to hold the rotor is a belt strap that cinches tight. Leather grabs well. Kind of like an oil filter tool. You might get close to 115 lb-ft.
All conjecture, though. I've never tried it myself.
 

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I made one :) 2" aluminum square tube, had one laying around I use for a cheat pipe...
Took about 30-45 min with a 4" angle grinder and a drill press with a small hole saw, cut two circles close together and grind/dremel out the hole to fit + a relief for the flywheel wall, worked A1
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I plan to take a look at my magnets and use JB weld (slow cure/marine) to keep the magnets in place as has been discussed on this forum. I've looked through this forum and Youtube looking for pictures or video of how the JB weld should be placed on the magnets, with no luck.

Does anyone have a linky to pictures or video of how to add the JB weld to the magnet area?

thank you!
I have no photos but will explain how I did it. All of my magnets were stuck to the stator when I removed the cover! I I cleaned everything well, calculated the spacing between magnets and glued them with JB weld super glue, then when looking straight at the flywheel I took mortite weather calking (you can use modeling clay) and made a dam at the outer edge between 2 magnets at a time so JB weld would not sag or ooze out. I mixed enough epoxy to fill the gap almost to the top making sure to distribute it evenly. When the JB starts to cure it will level and make a smooth fill. after it cures pull off the putty, clean end and move to the next gap. FYI I removed my flywheel to make it more comfortable to work on but it is not necessary. I used a lightbulb to warm the area to help cure the JB epoxy. I have put close to 2,000 miles on my strom without problems or voltage drops etc.

Terry
 

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About to put my flywheel back on my 2006, I dont have the Special tool 09930-44530 so I have to DIY something to hold the flywheel...

Any recomendations for a DIY procedure? also what is the touque on that bolt? I read somewhere 140nm but not sure.

Thanx
I haven't had a chance yet to pull off my cover and check the magnets, maybe today after work... but as for torqueing the rotor center bolt, I was thinking that a person could put it into 3rd? gear or so, and have someone else hold the rear brake. Which should hold things nice and tight. OR option 2 if they have an impact gun, get a torque stick of the appropriate torque and have at 'er.
 
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