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I didn't try RTV on the clutch cover because:

1) RTV is messy

2) wasn't sure it would work.

The original stator and clutch cover gaskets are some kind of metalic-plastic stuff. Possibly graphite - been reading up on those here: https://www.ramgaskets.com/gasket-materials/graphite-gasket-material/

On the factory clutch-side gasket, there is a special adhesive around the holes for the coolant pump passages. Don't know what the stuff is or how to duplicate it, but it's probably there for a reason. Given the work involved in replacing the clutch-side gasket (drain engine oil, drain coolant, disconnect hoses), I didn't feel like taking the chance.

For the stator side, gasket paper would probably work. No coolant passages, no need to drain anything prior to removing the cover. It only has to keep oil in.

Given that, I might try gasket paper, if I have to remove the stator cover again.
No need to drain the oil for doing the magnets?
 

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No need to drain the oil for doing the magnets?
Yes, unless you lean the bike far over to the right side onto something to hold it there.
 

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On the topic of reusing the gasket, it is possible.

I didn't bother replacing mine when replacing the stator last month. The gasket was 3 years old and came off easily. So far, no leaks a couple thousand kilometers later.
 

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No need to drain the oil for doing the magnets?
No, not if you have a center stand.

If you don't, I wouldn't recommend trying to tilt the bike to the right enough to not have to drain the oil. It's an unstable arrangement that can easily end in tears. Just drain the oil. Maybe time your inspection/rotor magnet re-glue to coincide with an oil change.
 

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Maybe time your inspection/rotor magnet re-glue to coincide with an oil change.
Even if your oil is new, it's simple enough to drain into a clean pan and pour it back into the engine once you're done.

I wouldn't bother trying to lean the bike over just to avoid draining the oil.
 

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No, not if you have a center stand.

If you don't, I wouldn't recommend trying to tilt the bike to the right enough to not have to drain the oil. It's an unstable arrangement that can easily end in tears. Just drain the oil. Maybe time your inspection/rotor magnet re-glue to coincide with an oil change.
That is what I'm hoping for. Thanks for your time.
 

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Yep, that's why I only re-used one when I didn't have a real choice. Wasn't expecting to ever have to remove the stator cover again, so didn't have a spare around.

Well, I guess I could have cancelled my road trip while I waited for a new gasket. Yeah, nah. I had already delayed it for 2 unplanned days, because FedEx was sitting on my rewound stator for no apparent reason.

The good news is that if you're forced to re-use one of the engine cover gaskets (stator or clutch side), it's not likely to be a big leak, at least if the gasket is still in relatively good shape. I had a small seep that eventually got the bottom of the engine oily & made dirt stick to it. That was all.
Where did you send the stator to get it wound? cost? I installed an Electro sport winding and regulator. It only puts out 13.9Vs. But I expect my battery mau last longer not over charging it, I can't run the PIAA and my electric gear at the same time.
 

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I used Custom Rewind in Birmingham, AL.

They are a small shop. They don't have a website or even a Facebook page. I'm not even sure they're still in business.

I could swear they had a 1-800 number before, but right now the only number I can find is (205) 798-7282.

They only charged around $90 to rebuild my stator, including return shipping. I had that done in December 2017, and it still works perfectly.

I'm not sure whether Custom Rewind can rewind an Electrosport stator - it might have to be an original Suzuki stator. Call them to find out.

eta:

I'll save you the trouble of digging to find this: I had earlier installed an SH847 regulator/rectifier, using a Roadstercycle kit, in about February 2017. I put in a new Suzuki stator at the same time, but it was burning out by July 2017. The Suzuki factory stators are just inherently defective, apparently.
 

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Where did you send the stator to get it wound? cost? I installed an Electro sport winding and regulator. It only puts out 13.9Vs. But I expect my battery mau last longer not over charging it, I can't run the PIAA and my electric gear at the same time.
My Electrosport stator puts out about 20% more than Suzuki specs. 90 vs 75V from the windings. You might want to check your stator and see what it's sending to the R/R.
 

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This is, how you say, marketing nonsense. Silly Electrosport.

The Vee shop manual specifies stator output at a minimum of 75V per leg @ 5000 rpm.

A brand-new Suzuki stator will generate about 90V per leg @ 5000 rpm. This isn't listed in the shop manual, just something I noticed both times I replaced my stator.

Caveat: that's measured with a cheap multimeter, which doesn't do true RMS, only "regular" RMS. So the true RMS value could easily be higher than 90V.

If Electrosport really has built a stator that makes more power than stock, they shouldn't be talking about per-leg voltage. They should tell us how many more watts it generates vs. a stock stator, and at what RPM.
 

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This is, how you say, marketing nonsense. Silly Electrosport.

The Vee shop manual specifies stator output at a minimum of 75V per leg @ 5000 rpm.

A brand-new Suzuki stator will generate about 90V per leg @ 5000 rpm. This isn't listed in the shop manual, just something I noticed both times I replaced my stator.

Caveat: that's measured with a cheap multimeter, which doesn't do true RMS, only "regular" RMS. So the true RMS value could easily be higher than 90V.

If Electrosport really has built a stator that makes more power than stock, they shouldn't be talking about per-leg voltage. They should tell us how many more watts it generates vs. a stock stator, and at what RPM.
Neither of my deceased OEM stators ever put out that much. More like 75-80V. I am quite pleased with the Electrosport so far, though I did hesitate to go that route given the preponderance of negative reviews about them on this forum. It was Wera688 who convinced me to give it a shot given that his has lasted well. What I can say is that I now have way more usable juice to power stuff than I ever had before. I can run heated grips, heated gloves, heated jacket, and heated pants at idle and not draw down. There was no way I could do that before with an OEM stator. (It is true that I also have non-OEM R/R on the bike as well which may play a role in that. I have 14.4V at the battery regardless of RPM.)
 

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I was going to check some things anyway (such as fuel pump performance). I'll measure the voltage I'm getting off my "stock" stator (actually, rebuilt by Custom Rewind) just for fun. And find my notes from last time I did a stator swap, if I still have them.

FWIW I dug up the toll-free number for Custom Rewind: 1-800-798-7282

Taken from this thread: stator re-winding
 

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Well this is interesting.

I disconnected my stator and ran the bike a bit to make some measurements.

It was tough to hold the engine at exactly 5000 RPM, but all stator legs produced about 97-100V AC.

At idle, the voltage hovered around 30-40V.

All three legs showed a resistance of 0.6Ω. That's 0.1Ω higher than service manual spec.

I no longer have an OE stator, so cannot verify the voltage coming out of one of those.

There are at least 2 ways one could boost stator output vs. OEM stator:

1) more poles. Electrosport didn't do this, obvious from product photos. It's the same 18-pole (6 per phase) design as OEM.

2) more wire. Use smaller wire to allow more turns (not great idea!), or simply cram more windings on each pole. Or use larger gage wire. Or both. This risks going down an electromotive design rabbit hole!

From available photos, I can't say for sure whether they've pulled off #2, but it's possible.

I didn't realize my Custom Rewind-built stator was overproducing, compared to an OEM stator. I'll have to start bragging about it.

If Custom Rewind crammed more turns of wire on my old OEM stator core, that might explain why I get slightly above "book" resistance per leg, yet the stator produces plenty of power & seems totally healthy otherwise.
 

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Well this is interesting.

I disconnected my stator and ran the bike a bit to make some measurements.

It was tough to hold the engine at exactly 5000 RPM, but all stator legs produced about 97-100V AC.

At idle, the voltage hovered around 30-40V.

All three legs showed a resistance of 0.6Ω. That's 0.1Ω higher than service manual spec.

I no longer have an OE stator, so cannot verify the voltage coming out of one of those.

There are at least 2 ways one could boost stator output vs. OEM stator:

1) more poles. Electrosport didn't do this, obvious from product photos. It's the same 18-pole (6 per phase) design as OEM.

2) more wire. Use smaller wire to allow more turns (not great idea!), or simply cram more windings on each pole. Or use larger gage wire. Or both. This risks going down an electromotive design rabbit hole!

From available photos, I can't say for sure whether they've pulled off #2, but it's possible.

I didn't realize my Custom Rewind-built stator was overproducing, compared to an OEM stator. I'll have to start bragging about it.

If Custom Rewind crammed more turns of wire on my old OEM stator core, that might explain why I get slightly above "book" resistance per leg, yet the stator produces plenty of power & seems totally healthy otherwise.
The pic here shows the OEM alongside the Electrosport. Wire gauge looks the same, but it appears there are more windings on the Electrosport.
The only real downside to more oomph out of the stator is the R/R has to shunt more heat at low draw. For me, that little bit more electrical power is invaluable in the winter to keep my fingers from needing amputation. Will it reduce the life of the R/R? Who knows?
268531
 

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You can also sidestep the problem by upgrading to a series R/R. That's what I did.

Fwiw, that had no effect on OEM stator life as far as I could tell. Suzuki stators just aren't built to last.
 

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Thought I would post here for better chances of hitting a person that might have some spares:


I am hoping someone somewhere can help me out.

Three of my flywheel/rotor magnets came loose and two are busted up.

I am hoping someone out there has an old flywheel they chose not to JB fix and is still in their bin :)

Just need a few magnets is all!


Can some helpful soul that might be willing to mail them to me in B.C. Canada please :)

I would of course cover shipping costs and throw in some beer money!

Thanx
 

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Have you checked if the DL1000 flywheel is the same part as the SV1000 (or other models) by any chance. There may be more options, if that were the case.
 

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Have you checked if the DL1000 flywheel is the same part as the SV1000 (or other models) by any chance. There may be more options, if that were the case.
Apparently they are very similar but not the same part number, the magnets may be the same but unless I had them side by side to measure I would not want to go thru the trouble of having someone ship them to me without knowing it wasn't a waste of time.

Good idea tho :)
 

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Finally put humpdy back together again after doing this fix and others. Checked my voltage at idle and it’s at 14.7v. Unfortunately I wasn’t smart enough to check it before the repair.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Finally put humpdy back together again after doing this fix and others. Checked my voltage at idle and it’s at 14.7v. Unfortunately I wasn’t smart enough to check it before the repair.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think your supposed to check the output of the stator coils at 5k rpm and it should be 75 volts AC.
I dont have the manual in front of me but that's what I recall.

Warm the engine, shut down, disconnect the regulator, fire up the bike, and use a throttle lock to set RPM to 5k, test voltage on the three pin connector from the alternator and it should be:
pins 1-2=75 volts AC
pins 2-3=75 volts AC
Pins 3-1=75 volts AC

The regulator can output the recomended 14.5v DC with little load on it but then not supply enough when you turn something on if the input AC voltage is too low.

Consult the manual to be sure I have the procedure correct plz, like I said, thats off the top of my head :)
 
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