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Hey all. I had been noticing a pretty good vibration starting at about 6,000 rpm. I found the magnets had migrated into a pretty off balanced arrangement so did the JB weld job on them and left the stator open to let the epoxy cure for a good five days since I've read that at least one person has had the JB weld disappear on him. Put it back together and just got back from a test ride where I took it up to 9,000. The vibration is just about completely gone! If I had purchased the bike like it is now, I would not have noticed any vibration, so I can attest that the magnets being out of place can definitely create a very noticeable vibration. They can also move around randomly, as I noticed at times that the vibration got pretty bad, while at others it wasn't nearly as bad. Another thing that I can say about a vibration now that I've had it and then NOT had it...it affects the handling! For some reason I do not feel as stable and secure when the bike is vibrating. When it's not, I feel much better planted on the road, especially on turns. Now, on to the clutch basket.

Bob
 

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My bike died this week in a parking lot far from home....

Back up about two weeks ago, started having some some sluggish starts. Thought it was just an old battery (4+ years) failing, easy thing was to replace it.

Installed a new battery and set off in high hopes. Actually, it lasted for about 3 days and a couple hundred miles before it gave up.

Fortunately there's Stromtrooper! Consumed a bunch of threads and thought, magnets sound like the problem, and it was! I did the JB weld mod, gave it a couple days to "cure", now back on the road charging about 14.6(ish).

I have to say, it's such a wonky thing to see these magnets just spinning around un-tethered in your engine case. Funny thing is, I too noticed a new mid to high RPM vibration (definately not chudder- I have the Werks Basket), it was ever so slight. So much so that I kept thinking it was just the road, or my new tires.....I kept asking my self, "was it like this before?".

When I opened the case (which is easy- for those who want to try tackling it, just watch carefully how the starter gears fit back together), I noticed all the magnets had slid to one side which I believe caused the vibration. Any how, it all went back together without a hitch, just wanted to get the story out there with some pictures. AND, that vibration.....GONE.

Take home message: charging issues with a good battery (and maybe some new vibrations), check you magnets!

My question would be for those in the know...has anyone had any failures or damage from the JB weld coming loose? Or am I needlessly worried about a fix that hords of others haven't had any issues with?
 

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Small update for my post from first page. After nearly two years, bike charging still works beautiful :) And I ride with spotlights always on, and heated grips a lot.

I did put small amount of jbweld under the magnets. The funny thing is i did not clean the old epoxy before putting jbweld on magnets.

:)
 

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Finishing up a maintenance/work period on my new to me 2012 Vee. First major item done was an inspection of the rotor magnets. In good condition adn well spaced. Did the JB weld mod for peace of mind. Time will tell. Pics below.
 

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I joined the club. 2005 DL1000 51,000. This forum saved me money and time diagnosing. Stator looks good.


Sent from my LM-X210APM using Tapatalk
 

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Finishing up a maintenance/work period on my new to me 2012 Vee. First major item done was an inspection of the rotor magnets. In good condition adn well spaced. Did the JB weld mod for peace of mind. Time will tell. Pics below.
There is one concern here. On two rotors that I know of the owners placed the JB Weld only in the outer part of the channel. The pics of yours show this as well. Both owners had issues with the JB Weld coming out. I am going to assume, which is simply that, that the oil is getting behind the JB Weld and centrifugal force is forcing it to eat away or push out the JB Weld. Something happened, as both owners claimed and seemed to do a good job of cleaning the area before using the epoxy.
 

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There is one concern here. On two rotors that I know of the owners placed the JB Weld only in the outer part of the channel. The pics of yours show this as well. Both owners had issues with the JB Weld coming out. I am going to assume, which is simply that, that the oil is getting behind the JB Weld and centrifugal force is forcing it to eat away or push out the JB Weld. Something happened, as both owners claimed and seemed to do a good job of cleaning the area before using the epoxy.
Good info. Will do a followup next spring around May, another look inside won't hurt.
 

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The only part that hurts is that you'll have to buy another stator cover gasket, to ensure no oil leaks when you replace the cover.

I've tried re-using them before. Never works.
 

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Peace of mind, and gaskets are cheap so to speak. If all is good at that time, no more thinking about the issue.
 

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The only part that hurts is that you'll have to buy another stator cover gasket, to ensure no oil leaks when you replace the cover.

I've tried re-using them before. Never works.
Gaskets are made for 1 time use. They compress when you torque the two pieces together never to expand again. They can't compress more after that and the micro pores never end up in the same place.
 

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I want to say THANK YOU to all the contributors to this forum about flywheel magnets. Mine are now epoxied back in place and working great. 80+ volts at 5 grand.
 

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Gaskets are made for 1 time use. They compress when you torque the two pieces together never to expand again. They can't compress more after that and the micro pores never end up in the same place.
Yep, that's why I only re-used one when I didn't have a real choice. Wasn't expecting to ever have to remove the stator cover again, so didn't have a spare around.

Well, I guess I could have cancelled my road trip while I waited for a new gasket. Yeah, nah. I had already delayed it for 2 unplanned days, because FedEx was sitting on my rewound stator for no apparent reason.

The good news is that if you're forced to re-use one of the engine cover gaskets (stator or clutch side), it's not likely to be a big leak, at least if the gasket is still in relatively good shape. I had a small seep that eventually got the bottom of the engine oily & made dirt stick to it. That was all.
 

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I had to reuse mine for the same reason. Now going to order spares. Don't know how long my magnets have been loose but the engine seams to run better and smother than I remember it since I bought it 3 years ago.
 

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I have reused gaskets before with no leaking. I will put a coating of oil on the engine side before fitting a new gasket so it is more likely to come off in one piece. If it will be replaced anyway, you don't have to fight to clean the engine side and can clean the case side on the bench.

Last week I couldn't easily get a gasket for a coolant pipe for my Trophy so I bought a roll of 0.4mm gasket paper for less than $10. Gaskets are easy to make. Just watch out for places where they need to be a specific thickness when compressed (for proper clearance).

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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IMO if you do your own work, you can't have too many spare gaskets.

I should go ahead and order spares for the stator and clutch covers. My Custom Rewind stator has been solid for almost 2 years now, but you never know.

For the clutch side, I'll likely want to slay the chudder monster sooner or later.
 

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I didn't try RTV on the clutch cover because:

1) RTV is messy

2) wasn't sure it would work.

The original stator and clutch cover gaskets are some kind of metalic-plastic stuff. Possibly graphite - been reading up on those here: https://www.ramgaskets.com/gasket-materials/graphite-gasket-material/

On the factory clutch-side gasket, there is a special adhesive around the holes for the coolant pump passages. Don't know what the stuff is or how to duplicate it, but it's probably there for a reason. Given the work involved in replacing the clutch-side gasket (drain engine oil, drain coolant, disconnect hoses), I didn't feel like taking the chance.

For the stator side, gasket paper would probably work. No coolant passages, no need to drain anything prior to removing the cover. It only has to keep oil in.

Given that, I might try gasket paper, if I have to remove the stator cover again.
 

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I didn't try RTV on the clutch cover because:

1) RTV is messy

2) wasn't sure it would work.

The original stator and clutch cover gaskets are some kind of metalic-plastic stuff. Possibly graphite - been reading up on those here: https://www.ramgaskets.com/gasket-materials/graphite-gasket-material/

On the factory clutch-side gasket, there is a special adhesive around the holes for the coolant pump passages. Don't know what the stuff is or how to duplicate it, but it's probably there for a reason. Given the work involved in replacing the clutch-side gasket (drain engine oil, drain coolant, disconnect hoses), I didn't feel like taking the chance.

For the stator side, gasket paper would probably work. No coolant passages, no need to drain anything prior to removing the cover. It only has to keep oil in.

Given that, I might try gasket paper, if I have to remove the stator cover again.
RTV and gaskets don't go well together although it can work. The down side is it can allow the gasket to move and split. Been there - done that. If you need to or want to put anything on a paper gasket good old black permatex works best. A mess to get off in the future though.
 

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Wouldn't have thought of using both RTV and a gasket at the same time, but I'm sure someone's tried it.

I'm guessing a gasket self-made from gasket paper would work well for the stator cover, because the gap to be filled is consistent and the mating surfaces are flat and reasonably wide.
 
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