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Welp, finally got enough projects out of the way to crack open the Strom. First thing that happened, found a bunch of threads on my drain plug. Excellent. How screwed am I?

Second thing, a washer fell out. I can't remember where it goes. I have attached a pic of the washer and my best guess as to where it should go.

Third thing, magnets all migrated again. This is the third time it's happened, as I have mentioned before, and the second time my JB Weld (two-tube formula) has failed on me.

I cleaned everything both times. Made a bridge of JB Weld both times. Let it sit for a day or so before riding again.

This time I plan to clean and bake the magnets. Not sure why, but I read it was a good idea. Gonna clean the inside of the flywheel with acetone, maybe scuff it a bit with sandpaper to help the JB grab. Gonna make a tiny form with cardboard for each JB bridge. Gonna completely fill each form with JB Weld that has been mixed as perfectly as possible. Gonna let it sit five days. Then I'll remove the forms, ensure the bridges are in place and fully formed, take pictures for you guys as proof of what I did for the next time it fails, and button it back up.

Oof I'm tired of this.
 

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Another pic. Also, I noticed when I pushed on the flywheel that I could slightly move it back and forth, probably a tenth of a millimeter or something tiny, with a little clunk each time. Should I be worried?
 

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I don't see any JB Weld in the pic of the rotor? Where did it go? There is no reason to put it under the magnets, just between them. That locks spacing and magnet attraction and centrifugal force does the rest. Haven't heard of anyone baking the magnets. I would be cautious of much heat.

Time for a Time sert or Heli-coil on the drain plug!

Back and forth ( as in front to back or up and down ) shouldn't net much play in the crankshaft. But in and out will on some of them. That is part of what "Idle Hammer" is.

Don't know exactly where the washer goes. Probably have to look at one of the exploded parts diagrams. But it is one of those in the starter mechanism.
 

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Another pic. Also, I noticed when I pushed on the flywheel that I could slightly move it back and forth, probably a tenth of a millimeter or something tiny, with a little clunk each time. Should I be worried?
Yikes; careful putting your magnets like that. I did the same thing, and suddenly they all snapped together and 3 of them broke in half! I had to buy some used magnets from some nice folks here who happened to have extras.

BTW, my JB Weld fix failed too. 2 tube, cleaned everything, even scuffed up the rotor lightly between magnets, but it failed. I can't find *any* jbweld in the rotor! I'm on my second try, and it'll sit for about a month before I get my bike back together enough to start it. I sure hope it works this time! But, 99% of everybody else who has done the fix has only had to do it once, and after thousands of miles it's still good. Super strange.
 

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It's strange for sure. I fixed my magnets about 20k miles back and they're staying fixed.

I would not worry about applying heat to the magnets, as long as it's reasonable. I found it necessary to soften the remaining factory glue enough to get it off. Baking the magnets in my oven at 350°F for 20 minutes or so did the trick. It's likely less heat than they experience in normal engine operation.
 

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I don't see any JB Weld in the pic of the rotor? Where did it go? There is no reason to put it under the magnets, just between them. That locks spacing and magnet attraction and centrifugal force does the rest. Haven't heard of anyone baking the magnets. I would be cautious of much heat.

Time for a Time sert or Heli-coil on the drain plug!

Back and forth ( as in front to back or up and down ) shouldn't net much play in the crankshaft. But in and out will on some of them. That is part of what "Idle Hammer" is.

Don't know exactly where the washer goes. Probably have to look at one of the exploded parts diagrams. But it is one of those in the starter mechanism.
Yeah, I had full bridges of JB Weld between each magnet before. Both times. It is just gone. I found a bunch of it in the screen when I installed your Werks basket this last year. I'm worried it's gonna ruin something in there 😞

I didn't have any UNDER the magnets. I didn't clean the epoxy off the bottoms either, perhaps that was wrong of me?

Good to know on the in/out. I was a little concerned! And thanks for the warning. I have a spare DL1000 motor that I could scavenge for parts but it would need the magnets fixed anyway...
 

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I almost don't want to post this for fear of jinxing myself, but my JB job is holding fine according to the voltmeter. It's been a couple of years now and (guessing off the top of my head) around 20 thousand kms. I haven't pulled the cover to look but the voltmeter says all is well down there.

I think prep work is critical. Like any job, the time you spend ensuring the work area is pristine pays off down the road (both metaphorical and literal). Make sure the surface you want the JB to adhere to is absolutely totally completely entirely altogether free of oil. This means the rotor.

I used lacquer thinner, IIRC. It's what I had kicking around. Clean, clean, and clean some more.

I did clean off the magnets as well, but the focus was on the JB between them.
 

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I didn't have any UNDER the magnets. I didn't clean the epoxy off the bottoms either, perhaps that was wrong of me?
Maybe? From the sound of it that's the only real difference between your JB Weld fix and mine.

If you found the cured JB elsewhere it does point to lack of adhesion, possibly due to a not so clean surface.

I did place a thin layer of JB under the magnets as well for insurance. That's one reason I thought it was important to completely remove the factory glue first. Because otherwise the JB might not stick. I wanted the JB to have firm purchase on both undersides and ends of magnets for maximum non-movingness down the road.
 

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Buying new JB Weld out of paranoia. This is the stuff, right, Terry? Same stuff I've used each other time...
 

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Yeah, I had full bridges of JB Weld between each magnet before. Both times. It is just gone. I found a bunch of it in the screen when I installed your Werks basket this last year. I'm worried it's gonna ruin something in there 😞

I didn't have any UNDER the magnets. I didn't clean the epoxy off the bottoms either, perhaps that was wrong of me?
By screen, do you mean oil filter or is there a strainer? I’ve always wondered where folks’ JBWeld goes...

I left my stock epoxy alone, just rearranged the few magnets that were out of position, triple cleaned with “stuff that doesn’t leave a residue”, then JB Weld about the size of a wooden pencil eraser between them. Let it sit overnight and rode it like I stole it ever since.
 

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Yeah, I had full bridges of JB Weld between each magnet before. Both times. It is just gone. I found a bunch of it in the screen when I installed your Werks basket this last year. I'm worried it's gonna ruin something in there 😞

I didn't have any UNDER the magnets. I didn't clean the epoxy off the bottoms either, perhaps that was wrong of me?
By screen, do you mean oil filter or is there a strainer? I’ve always wondered where folks’ JBWeld goes...

I left my stock epoxy alone, just rearranged the few magnets that were out of position, triple cleaned with “stuff that doesn’t leave a residue”, then JB Weld about the size of a wooden pencil eraser between them. Let it sit overnight and rode it like I stole it ever since.
The bits were in the screen before the oil pump pickup.

I'm wondering if I should put the JB Weld at the BACK bumping up against the back of the flywheel- seems like it might be better there?
 

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The 2002 DL 1000 has a unique rotor/stator. 4 magnets in the rotor. Never seen one of these come loose yet.
Hey Terry. Are you saying that it's highly unlikely that a 2002 DL1000 will suffer from the magnets moving? When the weather warms currently to damn cold in the garage, I plan to check the stator magnets when I do the springtime service on the bike.

As you might remember from our conversation this is a new bike to me this time last year. It has a bit of 50K on the clock and I did install a digital volt meter to monitor the voltage. I haven't noticed any issues even when running the heated grips.

I guess I'm wondering if I should bother cracking a virgin case if it's not indicating any issues.

:serious:
 

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I wouldn't. If your stator is putting out healthy voltage on all 3 legs, then it's fine.

The link between wandering rotor magnets and stators frying is unclear. Might as well wait until (if) you have declining charging system performance to inspect.
 

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Hey Terry. Are you saying that it's highly unlikely that a 2002 DL1000 will suffer from the magnets moving? When the weather warms currently to damn cold in the garage, I plan to check the stator magnets when I do the springtime service on the bike.

As you might remember from our conversation this is a new bike to me this time last year. It has a bit of 50K on the clock and I did install a digital volt meter to monitor the voltage. I haven't noticed any issues even when running the heated grips.

I guess I'm wondering if I should bother cracking a virgin case if it's not indicating any issues.

:serious:
I don't know of ANY 2002 rotors with magnet problems. Come to think of it, I don't remember much about stator failures with them either. One year, less numbers produced is part of that. But the magnet situation would have shown up by now. If I had a 2002, and running a voltmeter, I cannot say I would jump right in and check the rotor. If you had a 2003-2012, my thoughts are quite different.

As told to me by an actual electrical engineer, the magnets will produce a higher AC voltage peak when they are next to each other. That can be harder on the winding insulation. Once it pierces that insulation, you have a short and it is downhill from there.

Beyond that, there are MANY cases of where the magnets have come loose and contacted the stator. Destroying the magnets, sometimes the stator, and putting all that magnet material all around the engine cases and in the oil. Below are a couple pics of an example of this. I have seen them eat up two whole magnets!
 

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This may be a bit paranoid, but...the first JB Weld I put between my magnets "went away". I've re-done it and let the stuff sit for at least a week now. Last night I took a screwdriver to it to see if it would budge. Can anybody tell me if it looks like I did it right this time? (Or wrong?)

https://youtu.be/cu3IKaEvXKg
 

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I am developing a theory. Two of you have had JB Weld disappear. The video linked to isn't how I would want to see this done. While you don't have to fully fill the gap, you do have to put a solid bridge across touching both magnets. That is not what I see in the video.

Now to my theory. I am wondering if leaving an open area toward the rear of the rotor is causing oil to build up there? Then centrifugal force building with rpm's and pushing against the JB Weld? If not secured to both magnets, and maybe the actual rotor very well, I could see this causing the epoxy to be ripped out by the force of the oil.

Everyone I have worked with has filled the gap front to back with the epoxy fully contacting the magnets on both sides all the way. Some have fully filled the gap, some 1/2 to 3/4 full. Don't remember anyone leaving a hole or pocket at the rear. Now, after reading aTuWitty saying his disappeared and now WildDoktor I wonder if the pressure from an open area to the rear might indeed be trapping oil and forcing the JB Weld to break up/move out.

This pic shows a decent job of bridging the gaps.
 

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Do we know if the new 1000 rotor will work on the first gen, that would solve ALL of these issues?
 

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2014 and up DL 1000 rotor will not fit the first generation. Suzuki changed the crankshafts in these and the taper the rotor fits onto is much larger on the new bikes.
 

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My only hesitation about completely filling the gaps is that I don't know if - since jbweld is metalic - that will create a continuous magnet, defeating the 3-phase aspect that the gaps cause?
 
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