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It would be good to see pics if you tear into it again.

"Sticking" to the rotor isn't critical. I no longer recommend trying to put JB Weld under the magnets because the epoxy in the gap forms a mechanical lock. The magnets are not flat/square on the ends, so as long as you get a bit of epoxy above the centerline of the magnet there is simply NO way they can move. Centrifugal force along with magnetic attraction keeps them in place as far as the whole group rotating inside the rotor.
 

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Yeah, I didn't put it under the magnets, just in the gaps. I also worried about the mixture on the second go around and made sure that it was as close to a 50 50 on the JB Weld as possible. I thought I had a pic from the last time I did it, but I guess not. I'll take a pic this time as soon as I get in and after I repair it... Again.

One of these days a chunk of that stuff is gonna find its way into a bearing and my motor is gonna seize up. That'll be fun.
 

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You have two filters it would have to get through to hurt a bearing. The screen at the oil pump intake, and of course the oil filter. Doesn't mean it couldn't do harm, but more likely in the transmission than engine. Stuff like this tends to stay in the oil sump.
 

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Loctite makes an epoxy primer that does work well,anhydrous alcohol to dip magnets in, light amount on back of mag doesn't hurt either.Try calling loctite tech line and see if there is a product they would recommend instead of JB weld.You aren't running exotic oil of some kind are you? You seem to be having some type of chem breakdown /JB usually work if properly prepped.I wonder if setting part in front of light heat source overnight would help...or waiting several days to put oil back in or both.I'll ask our fact loctite rep next time I see him{if I remember} let us know what resolves this please.
 

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Loctite makes an epoxy primer that does work well,anhydrous alcohol to dip magnets in, light amount on back of mag doesn't hurt either.Try calling loctite tech line and see if there is a product they would recommend instead of JB weld.You aren't running exotic oil of some kind are you? You seem to be having some type of chem breakdown /JB usually work if properly prepped.I wonder if setting part in front of light heat source overnight would help...or waiting several days to put oil back in or both.I'll ask our fact loctite rep next time I see him{if I remember} let us know what resolves this please.
I have talked with the Loctite tech guys and the JB Weld tech guys. I was running JB Weld on a final drive product I was selling and wanted to be sure it was the "right stuff". It is. The thing about STANDARD 24 HOUR CURE JB Weld that is somewhat unique is its temperature range. It can handle 400 degrees continuous, 500 degrees intermittent. It is also rated for full and continuous oil immersion. This is the only case where I have heard of any problems with the JB Weld coming apart. And there are hundreds of people that have used it on DL 1000's, SV 1000's, and even on Super Tenere clutch baskets. So there something wrong here with either contamination, age of product, mixing, or the prayer used to start the chemical reaction!

There are some amazing Loctite products. They recommended, and I use, some rather hard to find formulas of Loctite in my clutch basket modifications. And they might in fact have something you could use to "glue" the magnet. But we have proven gluing to the rotor isn't necessary. Centrifugal force and magnetic attraction will keep them against the rotor. The JB Weld simply provides a solid bridge filling the gap and a bit of help sticking to the rotor to keep the magnet spacing correct.
 

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This has been a huge help, my 2005 DL1000 with 16K has this issue, when I pulled the cover over the flywheel off 1/2 of the magnets stayed on the stator 1/2 stay on the flywheel and they were all easily removed. One of the magnets had a small dime sized chip on the concave side. I'm guessing the magnet needs to be replaced? Any recommendations?
What started as a dead battery has turned into a bit of a mess....
 

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Welcome to the club! I have seen owners use the magnets that looked worse than yours and they seemed to work ok. I personally would want to find a replacement, but if I have to ride to work in a couple days, I too would have tried it!

We need a new sticky! "I have spare magnets, pm me!"
 

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You'd think, given the, ahem, magnitude of the problem, Suzuki would make the magnets available as an individual item. But, sadly, you have to buy the entire flywheel to get the magnets.
 

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That right there sounds like a GREAT reason for a "magnet list". Maybe no one else has any spares of their own, I don't know. Wouldn't hurt to try, I reckon. :)
 

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It would be good to see pics if you tear into it again.
Curiosity got the best of me during an oil change (Rotella T6), so I pulled my cover. Last time I looked was after repositioning those darn magnets and doing the JB weld fix. That was just over a year and 13,000 miles. No movement, it looks no different. :cool:
 

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In advance of a trip to Alaska in June, I pulled the side cover off my Mate's bike to check the magnets,
there are only 15,500 miles on the 02 DL1000.


All four Magnets are all firmly affixed, I went ahead and put the JB Weld in the gaps, will test the rest of the system once the JB Weld sets for 24 hours.

Stator looks ok visually - will pull the side panel and check it out electrically before I put everything back together.

Checked Stator :( Yellow lead to Yellow lead all three combinations read 0 spec is .2-.5 ohms crap!
Guess I need a stator.
 

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Depending on the meter that may be ok. What does it show when you short the test leads? What range are you using on the meter?

Cheers Tom R
 

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Looking at the picture, that pole at the "9 o'clock" position looks a bit suspect. I would remove the stator and look on the backside. I have seen the front look pretty good, then the backside look worse!

The 2002 DL 1000 has a unique rotor/stator. 4 magnets in the rotor. Never seen one of these come loose yet.
 

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BigjohnSD, the latest stator from OEM is reportedly fixed with the notorious shorting out issue, and be sure to install a waterproof voltmeter on board if not done such yet. :smile2:
 

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Depending on the meter that may be ok. What does it show when you short the test leads? What range are you using on the meter?

Cheers Tom R
This is important. I have a couple of really junky multimeters from Harbor Freight.

They are OK for measuring voltage and current but resistance? Ehh..only if it's a lot of ohms. They both show between 0.2-0.5 Ω with just the test leads touched together - which should read 0 Ω!

I am in the market for a better multimeter.
 

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UPDATE - my Multimeter seems to check out ok, it reads 0 ohms when on the lowest scale with leads touched together.

The three legs of the stator read 0 ohms on the lowest scale when tested to each other. spec calls for .2-.5 ohm

After re-assembly I tested voltages this morning. At 5,000 RPM I get 85-90 AC volts on all three legs,

all three legs show infinite resistance to ground, the meter never comes off of infinity when switching between legs while testing to ground.

14.0 volts charging voltage at 5,000 rpm on a fully charged battery after above tests complete with my digital voltmeter across battery terminals. I have a waterproof voltmeter installed. It generally reads .1 volt lower than my multimeter.

I'm beginning to think I don't have any problem.

Thanks to all for your input, suggestions, and observations.

North to Alaska in June!
 

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This is important. I have a couple of really junky multimeters from Harbor Freight.

They are OK for measuring voltage and current but resistance? Ehh..only if it's a lot of ohms. They both show between 0.2-0.5 Ω with just the test leads touched together - which should read 0 Ω!

I am in the market for a better multimeter.
That is actually a pretty good meter. Just adjust readings for lead resistance when dealing with small expected resistances. I have never seen a good meter read zero on leads since my last avo, they had adjustable offset for the leads. Cant do that with modern digitals.

Cheers Tom R
 

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That is actually a pretty good meter. Just adjust readings for lead resistance when dealing with small expected resistances. I have never seen a good meter read zero on leads since my last avo, they had adjustable offset for the leads. Cant do that with modern digitals.

Cheers Tom R
Yes, both my HF ones are digital. There's no way to adjust an offset, so I have to keep that in mind when measuring small resistances.
 
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