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Stator help needed.

4271 Views 12 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  David DL1000
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Replacing the stator on my 12 Vee and found this spacer. I did not see where this little guy came from. Hoping one of you can help me out in finding it's location. Also, when you are using JB Weld on the magnets are you using the semi liquid or the putty stick? If the semi liquid is used how do you get it ti stick to the upper area with out gravity doing it's thing?

Thanks
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Kilt Guy,
Yeah that stator looks like the one I pulled out of my 08 a few years ago.

What else were you working on at the time? That spacer does not look familiar. On reliable parts websites, there is no spacer like that identified for the 12 DL1000. Is it possible it got mixed into your stuff from another project? The parts list for the 2012 Vee magneto shows:
Rectangle Font Screenshot Parallel Number

The site had no pictures to go with the parts list, but for my 08 Vee it has the exact same list of parts. Here's the picture from their 08 parts page (which should match the parts list above):

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I'm not seeing that spacer in the parts list or the parts diagram.

As for the JBWeld, I used the tubes. Squeeze out the amount you want from each of the two tubes and mix. I remember using masking tape to keep some of it in place. Once it all dries, make sure you do a nice clean up job so that none of the JB is where it shouldn't be. The Dremel was my choice of tools for that.
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Another consideration is Stator cover removal? under that part of the discussion "what can fall out when the cover comes off".

Since your photo of the mystery piece has no way to gauge proportion or size, could it be a spacer from behind the gearing? What all did you remove and put back during the process?

Is it possibly the spacer seen in the lower left of this photo?
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Is that a case cover locator pin?
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Is that a case cover locator pin?
I think it is. I looked and it should go in the top of the case.
Do you thread seal the bolts for the stator? I see what appears to be red on the threads but I am assuming blue should work.
I tend to use Loctite blue on most things I don't want to loosen by themselves. Otherwise I use anti-seize on things I want to loosen easily. A few times I've used Black RTV when I've run out of Loctite Blue, but it takes longer to clean it off threads.
Is that a case cover locator pin?
Yes - locating dowel for the stator cover. The bolt nearest the flywheel inspection port will go through the dowel.
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Correct about gravity; I did half the magnetics at a time, let cure for 24 hours, then did the other half. I used plastic drywall screw anchors as spacers...did not leave them in.
I used the normal JB Weld two part epoxy. Just need to put enough epoxy between the magnetics to keep them from moving. Do not put epoxy on the back side of the magnetics as this raises the magnetics and likely to impact the stator windings.
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Just my 2 cents here .If you ever have electrical components you need to glue try shoe goo.It is a dielectric and hardens to a very slightly soft glue. Very vibration proof .Kinda like epoxy with a dab of silicon. I love JB weld but it has metal in it.
Very conductive.
Just my 2 cents here .If you ever have electrical components you need to glue try shoe goo.It is a dielectric and hardens to a very slightly soft glue. Very vibration proof .Kinda like epoxy with a dab of silicon. I love JB weld but it has metal in it.
Very conductive.
While JB Weld does have metal in it, hundreds have had no issues with that as far as how the electrical system works.
JB Weld is also rated for 400 F continuously, 500F intermittent. It is rated for FULL oil immersion. It is just to build a bridge between magnets as much as anything. So they can never creep together again.
Now my experience with shoe glue is that it doesn't work all that well even on shoes. I am pretty sure your oil intake screen would be plugged with it soon after running that in an engine to "hold" the magnets.....It would likely not survive long bathed in oil at well over 200 F.
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While JB Weld does have metal in it, hundreds have had no issues with that as far as how the electrical system works.
JB Weld is also rated for 400 F continuously, 500F intermittent. It is rated for FULL oil immersion. It is just to build a bridge between magnets as much as anything. So they can never creep together again.
Now my experience with shoe glue is that it doesn't work all that well even on shoes. I am pretty sure your oil intake screen would be plugged with it soon after running that in an engine to "hold" the magnets.....It would likely not survive long bathed in oil at well over 200 F.
Yeah,
Not sure on shoe goo temp rating but it is one of rhose compounds which has more uses than gluing shoes. Shoes are dirty and Hard to get anything to stick. I have used it to glue electronic components. Doesn't run. I love JB weld. Great stuff. Wish I had invented it.
Consider using LOCTITE 620 to glue down the magnets and JB Weld in the gaps. I've never used it but I like the specs, I think it might work. It's thinner and will not migrate due to magnetic force.
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