I’m posting this to summarize my thoughts.
I’ve been blessed in that I’ve been able to ride for 48 years. In that time, only 2 stator failures,both with a 2009 DL1000 V-Strom. The first stator failure was at 21,300 miles (OEM stator and R/R). The second failure was at 34,000 miles (Rick's Motorsport Electrics stator and FH012AA Shindengen MOSFET R/R
along with an Eastern Beaver connection kit).
Bad luck, I don’t think so.
Bad parts (OEM and aftermarket), I don’t think so. Just think of the hundreds of thousands of bikes and the millions of miles ridden with oil cooled stators and shunt type R/R that have no problems.
Bad design?
My electrical options are few: a heated vest (45 watts), heated grips (22 watts) and two 3 watt LED running lights and a Datel volt meter. .
Living in the middle of no where, most of my riding is 2 hours or more at 55-65mph. Very little stop and go city driving. I change my oil and filter every 5000 miles (OEM filter and Shell Rotella T6)
It seems to me that the failures are heat related. With the stator output at maximum power all the time, the only way to cool the stator down (using an OEM R/R or aftermarket MOSFET R/R) is with the engine oil. The service manual shows that the stator area receives a misting or spraying of oil.
Before I replace my stator, I’ve got four questions:
1. When removing the stator cover, how much oil should drain out?
2. Where is the location of the oil delivery tube/line or spray nozzle that feeds the stator? Maybe mine is some how blocked.
3. Does the oil drain back to the sump?
4. Should I switch to a series type R/R (Compufire 55402)?
Found this on the internet…..it must be true (LOL)
The ultimate solution to reducing the heat generation in the stator is to use a Series Regulator rather than a Shunt style (which pretty much all production motorcycles use - even those with MOSFET R/R).
Shunt regulators return excess current back to the stator, so they always run at full load, regardless of what the bike's load is. In simple terms, the shunt R/R puts a short across the stator to regulate the output voltage; the series R/R opens the connection to the stator, so produces no current at that point. Net result is the stator will run considerably cooler because it is generating significantly less current.
Thank you all for your time, ideas and comments.