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Discussion Starter #1
Hello and Happy New Year!
My starter switch was going bad for a while now (cutting off headlights at times) and since the winter is in full swing I decided to replace it. The replacement assembly has arrived but I'm not clear how to disconnect the throttle cables from the old one. Do I need to take the handle off the bar? Hopefully someone who did it already or has a repair manual could give me a quick tip...
Thanks!
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Move the throttle cable adjusters for maximum slack and the barrel connectors can be removed from the reel. If the adjusters at the top of the cable don't give you enough slack, also loosen the engine ends of the cables.
 

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Think I need to do the same on my 1000.
Where did you locate the best price for the switch assembly?
Mike
 

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The switch can be opened up and the contacts cleaned with a pencil eraser. I did this a few years back and she still starts first push.

Search on method (with photos) that was posted here by blacklab. His bike is a 650 and uses a slightly different part but the method and description was close enough for me to do it to a 1000.

Or replace the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Unhook barrel connectors from the reel - got it. :yesnod:
I ordered the switch assembly from bike bandit - had a coupon + they give 10% off to AMA members.
 

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The switch can be opened up and the contacts cleaned with a pencil eraser. I did this a few years back and she still starts first push.

Search on method (with photos) that was posted here by blacklab. His bike is a 650 and uses a slightly different part but the method and description was close enough for me to do it to a 1000.

Or replace the switch.
Here's a link to Black Lab's website and posting on cleaning the switch: Start Switch Maintenance | Black Lab Adventures
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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A permanent fix would be to install headlight relays. That will take the load off the stock circuits.
 

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Thanks! I cleaned the switch two or three times. It helps for a while but the problem always returned within 4 or 5 months. Hopefully, the new one will fix it permanently.
You need chemical helper for this application. I use this, you only have to do it once: DeoxIT ® M260Cp, #M260-C1
 

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A friend just purchased a 2015 V and is started farkling. Is the starter switch on this bike the same as on our 650s and needs a relay kit?
TIA Ian, Iowa
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It's is only similar in parts but identical in function. Headlight relays are still a good idea.
 

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I have the relay kit but I think my switch is near death. I used a small square "spacer" made of shop towel to lift the lower contact buttons up a little. It worked for a 5,600 trip. But when it rains, I'll lose the headlights. Obviously the shop towel is absorbing water and compressing, letting a gap exist. Right now the bike won't even turn over, as soon as I hit the starter switch the bike dies, but comes back after releasing. Must be a larger gap in that switch now..
 

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I have the relay kit but I think my switch is near death. I used a small square "spacer" made of shop towel to lift the lower contact buttons up a little. It worked for a 5,600 trip. But when it rains, I'll lose the headlights. Obviously the shop towel is absorbing water and compressing, letting a gap exist. Right now the bike won't even turn over, as soon as I hit the starter switch the bike dies, but comes back after releasing. Must be a larger gap in that switch now..

I took mine apart and cleaned it all up and put it back together and i-t still would only work well if I squeezed the entire starter box together from the top and bottom.

I ended up bending the two sides of the bottom copper connection piece that sits overtop of a useless spring that does nothing since that bottom copper piece actually locks into place so the spring does nothing.

Anyways ...I bent the two side of the copper nubs up about an 1/8th of an inch and it works perfect now.
 

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Just pack it full of silicone grease or NOALOX compound, its found at a Lowes or a HomeDepot around here. A good electrical joint compound does wonders. But, any cheap dialectic grease will work too, its just a clear silicone grease found at any automotive parts store. Mine was just slightly dirty, yet it caused an issue around 28K.

I've cleaned out starter switches with just electrical terminal cleaner sprayed in with the straw thingy then packed it full of dielectric grease on friends bikes. Usually last about 5 years before it needs it again. The last one was a Honda ST and I wasn't sure if I could get the switch back together, so I just soaked it with the spray can. It worked fine, so you probably won't have to totally disassemble if your worried about that. I've done it both ways, just sprayed and taken everything apart on my Strom, both methods worked.

As stated, the long term fix is head light relays. I put a HID kit on mine with relays, no more issues at all. Some Walmarts sell the CRC terminal cleaner and some grease, but NOALOX is good for sloppy switches. I also put NOALOX on my alloy flash lights and other things to lube the threads. Works like a anti seize, plus lube, it is electrical friendly and stays moist.
 
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